Making a flatter shooting talon…
The only complaint I have with my rifle is the poi at different yardages.. when I zero it at 30 yards and I have a 6 yard shot I miss it because my gun will shoot so low..I was told by someone on here it was because of how high the scope was from the center line of the barrel.. I’m thinking of cutting off the “carry handle” and mounting a long eye relief pistol scope on the frame probably towards the end of the barrel.. have any of you ever seen this done? do you think this will make my gun shoot flatter? thanks!
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you know Norgeiron this is what i have always heard and with a bow froma tree stand that is the case you need to aim lower if your shooting at an angle down ward,
I have a cb antennae and the radials are at 73′ in the air and starlings would sit on them , i had been missing shots at them because i was aiming high just like i had learned right. well i am shooting almost straight up.
I was tired of missing so i rigged a real good rest and aimed at the pole itself and the pellet hit high. hit the next several in a row after that.???
+2 on Mil Dot… I have mine ranged so I know which to use. I also have a laser which I can use to range estimate or for point blank.
And then another problem is if you’re shooting downhill. The poi is high when you shoot downhill at an angle, so I always have to aim below the target or the pellet will go over it. I live by a stream and shoot downhill at floating objects, so the splashes show me the exact poi.
If I was using my RWS l48, I could have just did the old point and shoot and probably drilled him. haven’t mastered that yet with my TSS. I haven’t put enough pellets through it to be able to point and shoot like I could with old trusty, I am still getting used to acquiring my target. I did buy some higher rings from AF, hoping that will help, I just haven’t got around to mounting them yet.
Well i used to only have a model 48 rws and up close was a bitch even with it. if i had not shot it in a while when you had a shot at like 4 yards.
But i did a trade for a rws M. 34, and i kept it open sighted for this reason. and i had the m. 48 with the scope.
But when i bought the condor i knew with the high scope that it would be worse about up close hold,
i wanted the condor to be able to do it all, 3′ to 90 yards.
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you do realize that you have a differant aim point for shooting straight up , than the same range shooting flat .
for close by without laser
it might be better to buy an extra gun
Well all i can say is shoot , shoot , shoot, you have to know where your impact is at the differant ranges. make a cheat sheet for your rifle if you cant remember.
I shoot at the differant ranges to make sure of my impact from time to time to make sure if i havent been shooting much. put the guns on the bags so you know exzactly where the impact is then shoot at 5, 10 , 15, and so on then you know for sure.
Do your homework and you wont be missing those close shots.
I have had a mil dot on it for over a year, and I do use it.. but imo its a pita..lol.. yesterday i had a squirrel in the top of a tree.. of course the wind was blowing and the tree was swaying a little.. i shot and he fell like a greased brick.. took off on 3 legs (i hit the front leg) he ran about 10 yards and tried to climb a tree.. he made it about a foot up.. and I had a close 15 foot shot… clean miss.. he tore out hobbling through the woods and made it into a hole in the bottom of a hollow tree..
I just figured out the other day how much that height throws off the close shots. I had my TSS dialed in Sweet at about 20-25yrds. I took a shot at a squirrel hanging off a branch about 6 yards out the window. The bastard was staring right at me, I thought for sure I hit him right between the eyes. He dropped out of the tree and ran away. I set up a target to check my sights and realized that I am about anywhere from 3-4 inches low on targets that are within 5-10 yards. Now I know why all you guys like those Mil-dot scopes, I have one on my gun, but now I actually understand what the dots are used for…. Duh …. Dead Nuts center doesn’t actually mean Dead Nuts center up close 😕
As said upgrade to a mildot scope. got a AGS 3-9×50 ao ir on mine with the mildot ret and used chairgun to pre map my aim points out then tested and tweaked it. have a little chart handy to say what point i need to go for at what mag or how many clicks for long shots.
your right about the hight of the scope though but the 30-30 if thats what you got will be making you guess your shots more.
link to the software http://www.chairgun.com/
Depends on how you shoot your gun.
I use about 1″ low at 20 andit is about the same at 45, so dead center from 20 to 45 is plus or minus 1/2″ if you are shooting close you can use the mildot method, or a laser. I have the laser, same thing about 1/4 low on 10 Yards to 1/4 high on 15.
My guns shoot in the 800 to 900 feet range and are real dependable in that zero.
The Marauder or close based scopes hit center at 20 and center at 45 a 2200 pounds of air pressure target, I use about 2200 pounds of air pressure.
The number of shots don’t mean nothing if they are all misses.
I get two clips from either of my 3 marauders with that. I dont even count when using the Talon or Condor, and I never use over 2500 PSI and And I get plenty shots. My power wheels on the Talon highflow is on 8 and all the rest are turned down to zero. Gun is just Idleing and shooting good and isn’t even putting accessive wear on my springs.
If you need more weight, you just need a heavier pellet and a biger gun. 😀 Pardon the spelling, I’m tyoing in the dark.
There has been a couple people who have chopped er off and put scopes on for a straighter line of shot, my scope is up to the moon and I have that problem with the one that has the target dot on the scope, the other with the mildot is much easier, everything I shoot ussaully has to be a min of 30 yards away, or 15 ft. with lazer, I know the short shot is no fun guessing with these guns, so go for it and get it right.
Machinist i have a laser sighted for point blank 3 yards. and for a 10 yard shot i turn my scope down to 5 power and the aim point will be the point where the duplex gets fat at the bottom. works great. i sight in for 25 yards
Just put your rifle on sand bags after sighting in at 25 – 30 yards, and put you a target up at 10 . now shoot your gun at 10 yards without moving the gun at the 10 yard target , turn the power down on your scope until the bullet impact moves in the scope to the duplex at bottom of your scope without moving your scope. or a set mil dot, then you have a precise aim point for 10 yards or 6 , what ever your want to set up.
Your aiming at the center of the target at 10 yards, and the impact will hit low, when you adjust your power down on the scope without moving the gun . the sight picture gets bigger, so the impact point moves up in your scope as you adjust the power.
If you want a 6 yard zero, get a canted scope mount. Mac1 can make Canted / drooping scope rings. Link for Droopers : http://www.mac1airgun.com/droopers.html
What fishin_rod said x2 Get a mil-dot or Map-6 reticle scope, set targets on ground or eye level, then set to the measured distances, 5-10-15-20 yards, Shoot targets and see which dot matches zero @ target distance. Use a scope with 3x or 4x on the low end, will give a wider field of view.
Remember which power setting is Zeroed @, if power is changed, you’ll lose zero!
Make a range card and attach to scope cap or turret?
Sam 😕
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As Con said , give Tim a call and get some droppers from him .I just picked up a set of 40thou high droppers from him on Friday for my Nikko .40thou puts the nikko 10-50×60 scope back to center on the condor ,on a smaller scope ,a 30 will work better.
Send some rounds down range at different yardages and plot the curve for your specific gun and pellet combo ,then figure what droop you need ,Tim has a bunch of different ones