Condor Trigger
Hi guys !
The trigger of my condor is not good. It is 2 stages and the last one is hard.
I`ll try make it soft, smooth, light but i need a diagram or pictures to do that.
Can you help me up ?
Thanks !
All Replies
Viewing 9 replies - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
When I was an Apprentice Machinist, we had orange colored ‘whet rocks’, that were about 4 inches long and some maybe 1/4 to 1/2 wide rectangular shaped stones, I only remember them being called stones?
We used them to polish the cutting surfaces of Tool steal lath bits and also the cutting surfaces of twist drills after being resharpened. I was to stone the burr/feathered edge as it would cause the cutting edge to chip and wear prematurely, to not deburr tool steal cutting tools ? Also use ’em to deburr cutting tools/twist drills while in use, the cutting surface would clog/build up. Used to touch up the edge on my pocket knife also.
I guess “polish” would have been better term than ‘stone’!
I used the term deburring stone because of what I used them for. I’m sure our local machinist can chime in with the correct terminology-My Bad.
I did find a picture : http://www.tennesseeabrasive.com/tool%20room%20sticks%20-%201.html
Sam 😕
Sam,
Would you please describe what is meant by “stone”?
I’ve got an old white rectangular stone that I believe is an Arkansas honing stone but not sure if that’s what you mean.
Thanks,
Edmund
You only want to very lightly stone/deburr the surfaces that move together/contact against each other. The case hardened surface is paper thin? DON’T USE A FILE! Don’t stone where the sear contacts the hammer. Stone each end of the link in the middle, above the red safety cover. The part of the trigger that contacts middle link, and the part of the sear that contacts the middle link.
So you only want to remove surface burrs and high spots. Don’t change any of the angles! Don’t remove pits, they will be below the case hardened surface. Would be a good idea to color the surfaces before stoning. A blue permanent marker, should work. This will show the low spots as the high spots will turn silver, when the stone removes the high spots. DON’T TRY TO REMOVE THE LOW SPOTS! Be Careful, less is better, good luck!
I had a couple of system crashes lately and lost pass words, photobucket for now, waiting for email from ’em to get back in, will marks spots, just the 2 contact points/4 surfaces that move when trigger pulled.
Someone else with CAD skills should mark the point on the picture, Thanks.
Sam 😕
Sam 🙂
Can you explain showing me in picture ?
Thanks !
Deleted duplicate post. Haven’t done that in a long time 😳
A hard to pull trigger is an indication of heavy preload on the hammer. Try turning the Power Wheel down a couple turns or so and give it go. The pellet velocity will be less but may improve accuracy. Some pellets appear to spiral more at higher velocity.
someone send him the link for the trigger mod i have it done to one of my condors and i have it set to ounces not pounds one of the best mods to do to one of these guns ok i think i found it
The trigger parts are made of case hardened soft metal. If you remove the hard outer coat, they wear extremely quick. Deburring stone used sparingly is more than needed. Best to not mess with the trigger parts, could get worse.
Sam 🙂
Viewing 9 replies - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
http://www.talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=132
Thanks RJ for posting this.
I have seen this before but did not feel like my gun needed any trigger adjustment. I figured it would not hurt to put the adjustment screws in the trigger group even if I never needed them, it would be nice to have the option to adjust them.
After playing with it and adjusting the trigger..I LIKE IT!
Today, I shot the best 45-50 yard group I have done in the past 2 months.
Dime size..great for my skill level.
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED MOD!