Trigger honing and stoning—–
It appears to me that the ONLY way to get trigger components out is to remove those little “pin” like things that go through the frame ??? Is this correct? I did a “search” but didn’t have any luck…the 2-crew mod helped the trigger a good bit, but it STILL is about 3 lbs heavier than I would like it, if ya know what I mean 😥 😥
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Viewing 14 replies - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)
I’ll more than likely not work on trigger any further…I accept the fact that it will never be up to the match-quality of my S410 trigger 😥
i dunno…after some spring clipping, shimming, a dab of moly on the intermediate/sear junction, overtravel adjustment, and a TON of breaking in, i will definitely call mine equal to most AA match triggers, no more than 6-8 oz(MAXIMUM) of pressure and it breaks like glass, the same every time. 😎 feels like a major accomplishment considering these triggers are not known for consistency. 🙄
My second go-round on the trigger mods including a little more polishing, and removal of another full coil from easch of the 3 springs..Sooooo much better than factory, at least for me !! The fact that my 47 yard shot groups are now LESS than 3/8″ confirms what I already knew…
I’ll more than likely not work on trigger any further…I accept the fact that it will never be up to the match-quality of my S410 trigger 😥
i would like to (i just haven’t gotten around to it yet) do the two screws modification to it.
personally, i find the trigger to be acceptable in it’s standard configuration.
mine has a very noticeable two stage action; i have no objection to that whatsoever.
the only change I’d like to make to mine is to get out the side-to-side movement. i don’t know of any way to eliminate that so I’ll live with it i guess.
its not too pretty if youre a nitpick, but i cut a small tab from a wide type of bobby pin(its black…nice)and used rearview adhesive to secure it to the bar where it runs through the trigger group cover, and wobble is all but gone now… 😀
Dewalk,
I’m thinking of inserting a thin strip of plastic, like blister pack plastic, along one or both sides of the trigger group. We could cut out notches to go around the pins. Slide it down in and cut it off at the right height.
I’ve got the Sear shimed now but the mechanism needs more.
I’ve got the .22 Talon. i have yet to do any ‘mods’ to the trigger itself. i did make a different trigger shoe from aluminum and install it.
i would like to (i just haven’t gotten around to it yet) do the two screws modification to it.
personally, i find the trigger to be acceptable in it’s standard configuration.
mine has a very noticeable two stage action; i have no objection to that whatsoever.
the only change I’d like to make to mine is to get out the side-to-side movement. i don’t know of any way to eliminate that so I’ll live with it i guess.
I haven’t tried any setting above 8 on the PW…been doing a TON of pellet testing..so have had PW on 4 most of the tim..Mine will shoot the 10.65 Barracuda Match with PW on 8 from 3000 psi fill…..not enough fps gain to justify the excessive air use though….PW 4 seems to be the best spot..
I plan on doing some more work on the trigger..the screw/mod, polishing the contact points and shortening all 3 springs helped it a LOT, but it could still be made better 🙂
Pack
You say you have a Talon SS .177.
Can you shoot it above 2800psi with 12 PW and a 10 grain pellet?
My TSS does not shoot above 2400PSI 6PW with TS10 10.5 grain pellets.
They look like barracuda match but just cheap Gamo brand.
If you ever pull the valve off the tank I would be dead keen to see what you have insde 😕
BTW as to not Hijack this thread I did reshape and polish my trigger internals. Have not done the set screw mod trigger is ok safety is better.
The Condor suffered a major safety mod but that is now nice and easy to use. But yeh the AF rifles dont have the target trigger’s, pitty cause they are a nice piece of kit. To be honest I think they’re a little pricey for the component count to make a rifle. In other words the trigger could be a little more worthy for the same money.
Arrrrr me matey’s..
07CONDOR22–I bought the TSS BNIB from PA on 14th of Feb, 2011–I doubt if trigger parts are worn 😉 😉 Yes, I’m using stock hammer spring…ONLY thing I’ve done to gun is the 2 screw mod….
I’ve gotten quite a bit of experience stoning and honing triggers…been building Crosman 22xx’s, converting them to over 30FPE HPA , etc,etc,etc…so I know it has to be done in sometimes painstakingly minute steps..Not afraid to give it a shot, just thought that I’d make use of any prior experience that was out there 😀 😀 MAYBE I’ve just gotten so spoiled by the S410 set-up. Either way, I do know that trigger control plays a big part in accuracy, and from what I’ve seen so far , I believe this .177 TSS can be made into a true “laser-straight” shooter. Heck, even adjusting the position of the trigger blade makes a difference…I changed the setting on mine just a tiny bit, made it fit my finger better.Sounds silly as shit, but every little bit does help. And THERE IS a reason it’s made to be adjustable 😎 😎
THANKS for the replies..guess I’ll get up and start on it tomorrow morning, just see what happens.
Packrat,
I polished the inside of the railway where the trigger parts set, and then I polished the trigger parts themselves.
Having fucked up my share of AR triggers years ago I was worried.
Mine is still holding, but if I set it too light, in addition to using a big assed heavy spring, it will slip off, so I backed off on the adjustment a little.
Read my post about people being blinded by the flashing red light.
Whether stoning caused that or not I do not know, I think I had it too light and may have touched it on something while pushing in those damn hard to seat EJ’s.
Now to answer your question, I have maybe 5000 pellets down the bore since I did it, and 1500 to 2000 were since the thumb incident I guess.
So either I did not go deep enough to remove the hardening or ????.
I have also rehardened my share of triggers after stoning the surface hardening away. Buy a spare trigger set, then stone to your hearts content, your a big boy, you know damn well where to point the muzzle if it slips off and fires, and if it does, heat the parts until cherry red and dip them in used motor oil. If that does not work, you have a spare set to fall back on.
Long story short, mine is working, one gun I polished one gun I did not, I could not see the difference other than the one I polished was scary light and still can be set scary light.
Regards,
Roachcreek.
Order replacement trigger parts and have at the old ones, honing/stoning and let us know what happens. I did the 2 screw trigger mod with Amazing results. I wasn’t brave enough to polish the trigger parts myself, and don’t remember reading here on the TAG of the results, being forewarned, expect bad results.
Maybe it’s time to replace that original trigger with a new one! All three moving parts. The ‘Case Hardened surfaces’ may have worn|out-already.
Heavy hammer springs effect trigger pull weight. Are you using a stock hammer spring?
Sam ❓
Well, I have looked through all 5 pages of the FAQ stuff, looking for info on trigger modifications. I’ve already done the “two-screw” mod, and it was of significant help. However, my other air rifle is an AA S410 and I am accustomed to a much, much better trigger. My S410 is set @ 9 ounces pull and is honestly as smooth as glass 😀 It has a LOT to do with why I look like such a good shot with it. 😆 😆 Now, perhaps the TSS trigger cannot ever be THAT good, but I gotta say, it surely can stand a bunch of improvement. I understand that “honing and stoning” the contact points would in fact, remove the hardened surface of the trigger parts , and promote premature wear. And I was told on here about finding softer springs for the 3 that control the trigger.
My questions begin with this..HOW quickly would the trigger parts wear if those hardened surfaces were to be stoned away? 2000 pellets? 5000 pellets? Does anyone here have firsthand experience with this….PLEASE not what you think would happen, but what you know for a fact did happen to the trigger parts that you had done this mod on… Not trying to be a wise-ass..just trying to get solid facts to help me make an informed decision. Even with softer springs, the trigger pull is still so “catchy/gritty-feeling” that it is affecting accuracy. Surely dragging some oily 1000 grit paper across the contact surfaces wouldn’t do any noticeable damage???? I ask ’cause it REALLY does feel like it’s got sand mixed with mud on the surfaces that touch 😥 😥 😥
Does anyone have part numbers or specs for what springs to use??? I had some in my parts bins that were a bit softer ( no way to accurately measure) and they seem to have helped, but not near enough……SO, sorry this ended up soooo long, but I’m telling ya the trigger on this TSS is bad Much worse than the other TSS I had.. Thanks for any help you can provide..I’m out of ideas.
Well SHUCKS ( or something like that ) Since I did run out of adjustment with the 2 screws,,,maybe I’ll go get longer grub screws and try that before trying to replace all the springs….. Thanks for the info 😀
Do not hone or stone your trigger parts. You will take the hardening right off those pieces.
You want lighter trigger after doing the trigger modification? You will need to get some softer springs that will work
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Thanks for the encouraging words!!!! The trigger on my S410 is just amazing..I wish everybody could have the chance to feel a trigger like it..it makes me look like s sharpshooter 😆 😆
The TSS trigger is now down to 17-18 oz, and waaaaay smooother than when standard..Judging from the last shor groups I did though, it’s doing a helluva good job as far as affording me accurate control…thus the statement about leaving it as-is….KNowing how I am though, I’ll probably try to get it better, since you’ve tempted with your statement ❗ ❗