BP cannon wanted built

quite a few custom Cannon barrel makers
can provide you a list of a few if you so desire

most of the current reproduction barrels are castings reamed for a DOM smooth bore liner as turning these monsters from solid stock isn’t cheap
knew one cat years ago in the Twin Cities that was buying scrap locomotive axles and drive-shafts for boring and turning to 1841 Mountain Howitzer profile
thing was even in the 1980s he was getting well over a grand for a bare barrel.

another way is using extra heavy wall DOM then welding in a plug and the side trunnions
not a great fan of those builds as no matter how good the work you will eventually get gas cutting at the forward edge of the welded breech and of course its difficult to clean that eroded seam which has in the past led to a few remarkable self destructions including a small number of fatalities
Weld builds are fine with low pressure applications like Mortars but against using them on Artillery
that said here’s the URL for Buckstix in Wisconsin

http://www.buckstix.com/howitzer.htm

he sells blueprints for barrel & carriage builds

I would suggest subscribing to Artilleryman magazine, great rag if you are into muzzle loading cannon
I never used fuze
Quills work ok but there are folks selling pull friction igniters as well as bronze cannon locks that use a musket cap

sold most of my Cannon off some time ago
if you want scary I do still have a converted 1930s Stokes Brandt 60mm mortar, {same as our M2 60mm with brass work}
has a custom tube, welded chamber and welded breech cap
whole set up with bipod, baseplate & optical sight with case would run $1800.00
this stuff simply isn’t cheap

cheapest is likely Bowling Ball mortars which are built from cut down welding tanks with a rudimentary bipod
not accurate but a great deal of fun
with the Stokes I was once able to drop steel shot within a few feet of each other at several hundred yards and more

another that was popular for a time was 20mm bag charge cannon
had one I built using a nice chunk of Vulcan cannon barrel and used a slightly modified 1910 Russian Maxim wheeled mount with a cannon lock and optics
bag chargers use a barrel threaded for a removable breech. You take a wrench and pull the breech and load in a standard 20mm Vulcan slug followed by a bag charge of measured smokeless then screw the breech on snug, cap the Cannon lock & you are good to go
with that set up I was pushing 2000FPS…would shatter engine blocks, hell would go through bone yard cars end for end at a 100 yards and just keep going
know your backstop friend

one last one are recoilless jobs
as far as I know I am the only one to tinker with these
used a dewatted RPG2 with a permanent liner turned from a 20mm Vulcan barrel reamed from the rear to remove the lands up half way to the ignition vent threaded for a musket cap and ignited by the underhammer RPG trigger group.
to stay legal the liner was fully fusion welded inside the RPG2 tube. Installed a RPG7 optics bar and mounted a Soviet SVD PSO1 optic
You dropped a 20mm Vulcan down the open breech followed by a bag charge which was followed by a bagged counter mass of the same weight as the Vulcan projectile, {lead shot}
off the bipod I had it zero’d for 100 yards but had engaged junked cars at close to 1000 yards
big problem was the beast was every bit as deadly to the rear as it was from the muzzle
Design dates to WWI and the Davis recoilless Aircraft cannon

Federaly all of these toys are completely unregulated but expect if Officer Obie gets a call and investigates you will have an interesting afternoon at the range
been there, done that a few times

as to the particulars of Federal law, a few points of order…
Feds are very anal on these things

first off you MUST use a “period ignition device”
this limits you to fuze, friction igniter or a cannon lock using flint or cap
no modern primers, electrical igniters, ect.

your round MUST be loose components unless it has been specifically exempted such as the Krupp Mountain Howitzer or the Hotchkiss as used at Wounded Knee or the 1″ Gatling and the 37mm used in the Pratt & Whitney revolving cannon

and a more recent change is that you must use side ignition…no inline ignited artillery

never forget, Artillery is Dangerous and not just down range either
seen a few broken bones from dummies standing near a carriage when the gun recoiled
my advice for you would be to volunteer in one of the Civil War reenactor groups that are in the Metro and do drills at Snelling before jumping the shark on all this

here is a price list from Hern Cannon Works and remember these are only the raw barrel:

http://www.hernironworks.com/cannonprice.html

should be enough to get you started

Here you go with your porn and blowing shit up 😆