Picked up a HW100T the other day.
It may be the best PCP rifle I’ve ever owned. Everything about this rifle is done right, from the magazines, single shot adapter, side lever, number of shots is good (I fill after 30 but it will go at least 40). It has a modular design which makes it very user adjustable and serviceable.
Some may not like the weight but I bought it for FT so that’s not an issue. It’s probably 8lbs or so but it’s no Talon in that regard. I’ve adjusted it to shoot 915fps with JSBH in .177. It’s also not whisper quiet but quiet enough after I slide the factory brake down away from the muzzle.
It was expensive like most high end PCP’s but on the lower end of regged guns. Mine was used.
I shot a little right before dark today. Set up some paper and zeroed at 55 yards. 4 shot .4″ CTC with three touching.
Set up a field target at 55 with a 1″ KZ and just nailed it, time after time. I missed a few because of me, but the rifle shoots exactly where it is pointed.
I don’t understand why more of these German rifles don’t catch on here. This one needs to go to no one for tuning. I think that’s what I like about it the best, I feel that I’ve paid for a very expensive toy that works like it’s supposed to, first time.
Highly recommended.
Pal
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Went out with the HW100 to work up a range card. Plugged the numbers into chairgun and headed out. Chairgun says that I should be 1 mil up at 10 yards, zero at 14 and 55 yards, mid range trajectory one mil down from 20-30 yards or so. But when I shoot 10 yards it’s 3/4 mil. Doesn’t sound like much but it could mean that my zero has changed, the rifle has lost velocity or my scope height is not correct. So I shot 25 yards, 1mil down as predicted. So I check zero at 55 yards. Shot onto a metallic swinger, came down 2 clicks and shot a group on paper. I was at 12x and thought it was good but it was point of aim, point of impact, so I applied the zero shift to my card and began to work on the range card again. Not until it got too dark to shoot did I retrieve the target. I rarely post groups but this one makes the list. Subtracting .160″ for the hole those round nose CPH’s are cutting, the groups measures .152″ CTC. 55 yards, prone, rested.
I’m impressed with this rifle.
Paul
Having said that it certainly is a nice looking rifle.
Regards,
Roachcreek
Yep. That’s what put me off to start with was the split receiver. But now that I have the rifle in hand, it’s really a non issue. My scope/mount/eye relief dictates that I mount my one piece mount on the rear receiver, but I would have no trouble mounting across both if needed. Everything is modular and bolted together. I feel better about the scope mount on this rifle than I do my AF Stubby.
I guess something could work loose but it seems improbable. It’s really built like a tank and is more substantial than the Rapids and Air Arms guns I’ve owned. The only rifle I’ve owned that compared to this was another German rifle, the Walther LG300 Dominator Hunter. But the Dommie was set up to run at 4350psi and also had some teething problems and never really caught on.
They did have some issues with the accuracy of the .22 barrels but I’ve never heard of any issues with .177.
Power wise, it was running JSB heavies at 23 fpe which was too much for what I wanted to do (Hunter Field Target). I turned it down to 19 fpe and all is well.
The magazine system is the best I’ve ever seen on an airgun. Same with the single shot adapter. This rifle is like a Swiss watch. I don’t feel like it needs anything. I think there were some bugs in the beginning but I think they’ve worked them out and the rifle seems to have stayed popular enough. Now that it comes shrouded, I think more will buy one.
Paul
I have heard critisms of the strength of the reciever design as far as being stable for scope mounting, and that it borders on being anemic for power.
Having said that it certainly is a nice looking rifle.
Regards,
Roachcreek
I have not read the material you have read, perhaps you could share a link? I’d like to learn to see what type of mods they are doing, kind of steep though.. a 1400 dollar rifle needing a tune?
BUT most owners that shoot competition (HFT, FT or 100m) say they need tuning out of the box.
I have no doubt they shoot relative good, but they need barreltuning they say.
Also is the internal regulator quite influenced by the temperature.
Perhaps with the older models, the newer models are A+ there is videos on youtube of this thing taking down cans at 200 meters. Very impressive if you ask me.
I’m not talking about cans, I’m talking about groupings..
But hey, if you’re happy with it, that’s the most important??
But to give you an idea: 100m owners put a LS (polygon barrel) in it and shoot it WITH an external regulator.
Try to find out why.. (and it’s not 1 strange guy that does it)
BUT most owners that shoot competition (HFT, FT or 100m) say they need tuning out of the box.
I have no doubt they shoot relative good, but they need barreltuning they say.
Also is the internal regulator quite influenced by the temperature.
Perhaps with the older models, the newer models are A+ there is videos on youtube of this thing taking down cans at 200 meters. Very impressive if you ask me.
Here in the EU (Belgium, Holland and UK) it’s used also quit a lot.
BUT most owners that shoot competition (HFT, FT or 100m) say they need tuning out of the box.
I have no doubt they shoot relative good, but they need barreltuning they say.
Also is the internal regulator quite influenced by the temperature.
I am currently saving up for one now. This will be in my arsenal soon. Now I want my pay from this weekends drill faster!
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Very nice, can’t wait to get my hands on one of these German beasts!