Q:

Removing and adjusting the R3’s Regulator

I had a couple of guys PM me and ask how to turn the R3’s regulator down. I thought that I would do a video of me adjusting mine. It turned out to be a lot more trouble than I anticipated. On the first take, I sounded like Obama. “OK, now you aaaaaaaaaa ummmmmmmm hmmmmmmmm aaaaaaaaaaaa you turn turn this screw out”.

The second try, I left out a couple of tips. Same on the third. The 4th one was better but, I had the camera’s view screen rotated 180 degrees, up/down was backwards. When I wanted to get a close up shot of something, I would end up moving the part the wrong way and out of the camera’s field of view. There was NOT going to be a 5th try!

I PMed Ted in Madison and asked for permission to link to his video showing how to remove the air in the air tube. He gave me his OK. Here is the link to his video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kWZBxMZ7dbg

Here is my Vid:

I am NOT giving up my day job! 😆

EdGun

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Viewing 9 replies - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)

Well, I got a little more time to play around with the .25 Matador. I had a few issues that I think were caused by a bad o-ring in the shroud (I think I had a few pellets that were clipping and giving me some flyers), but this morning I think everything was working really well. I chronied a 20 shot string and had an average of 895fps, SD of 2.7 (high of 900, low of 891). This was after turning the hammer spring in just a little (about half a turn). Everything now seems very consistent. I haven’t shot anything longer than 80 yards, but the few shots I took at 80 yard shots were right on target.

So far as I can tell, no issues so far with the rubber o-ring in the transfer port.

No, I wasn’t referring to the probe o-ring. I think we are talking about the same one, and mine was rubber.

The probe O rings aren’t what I was asking about.

I was wanting to know about the O ring that goes in the front breech block and seals the air valve housing to the front breech block and barrel assembly. It is the one that you have to make sure it is place when you slide the barrel assembly back on after adjusting the regulator.

Tachdriver has a topic on it here. It seems that all of the R3s, that made it to the US, have a rubber O ring instead of a copper one.

I’m not 100% sure on the terminology, but if you mean the opening in the regulator assembly that goes up to where you load the pellet, no, it was a rubber o-ring.

That looks good and is about where I was. I turned my reg in a little more and will try turning the HS up a little. If the original setting was at 12 oclock, I am now at around 7:15.

Does your R3 have a copper O ring in the transfer port?

O.k., here’s the first full string after adjusting my regulator:

901
898
897
889
896
892
888
888
888
889
880
884
886
883
883
885
891
882
887
882
879
888
883
882
881
886
884
879
885
884
881
880
881
884
880
886
883
889
892
890
895
892
900
895
902
904
903
900
900
901
901
900
898
890
891
884
886
885
884
879
877
871

Not counting the last few shots, I got ~60 shots averaging 889 fps, standard deviation of 7.3 fps (high 904, low 879), going from 200 bar to 100 bar. A bit more variation than desired, but overall a pretty decent string. I think I might try adjusting the hammer spring a bit more to see if I can reduce the variation, but overall I’m pretty happy with the result.

O.k., with your very helpful video, i was able to adjust my regulator. I turned it in just a bit less than a half a turn, backed the hammer spring off between 2 and 2-1/2 turns, and the first shot chronied at 893. I don’t really have a good place to shoot at night, so I did 6 shots, and they ranged from 888 to 902. Right in the range I was hoping for, now I need to figure out how to reduce the spread between high and low. I’ll try to shoot a full string tomorrow to see what is happening and get a better feel for what the distribution really is.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge and taking the time to do the video!

Acourvil, I turned my reg down a little more and it was closer to what I was wanting but, it needed to be turned down just a little more. I gave it a touch more than the 1/3 turn in than I initially tried. That got me 880 fps that climbed to 905 before coming off of the regulator. I am now at ½ turn in and I think/hope that ½ will give me 880 or 890 for the full fill.

That is around where I have the R2.5 25 cal long set at. Once I get it set, I expect to get a 3-4 fps variation + = from the set speed for the full fill.

I will keep this thread updated as I do more adjusting.

Just remember to turn the HS adjuster out before you put the gun on a chrony. If you don’t do that, adjusting the HS tension will give you crazy results as you will be on what Ed calls the back side of the regulator. Less reg pressure needs less HS pressure.

Your first time adjusting the regulator will probably take you 45-60 minutes. After the 1st or 2nd time, you should be able to do it in under a ½ hour. I am down to about 20 minutes.

Nothing to be afraid of and I actually enjoy tuning my Edguns!

Thanks!

Viewing 9 replies - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)

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