Which Talon SS is working right?
I have a .177 Talon SS which I have had for years. I just got a new one in .22 (the blue gun) a couple of weeks ago. Both guns are straight out of the box with the safety removed on both.
I shot a string of ten shots over the chrony for each setting. I started with the thumb wheel (TW) set on16 and the scale (S) on 13. After ten shots over the chrony, I would turn the TW until it reached 16 and 12 on the S then shoot another 10 shots. Again I turned the TW until it read 16 and 11 on the S and shot over the chrony.
I did this all the way down the scale until I reached TW16, S1.
I hope that I painted a clear picture of what I did.
Okay, the old Talon showed a more or less drop in velocity with each turn. Highest velocity was around 9 on the scale at 847 fps. The lowest velocity was 230 fps with a reading of 1 on the scale.
Okay, everything good so far.
Now with the new Talon SS the velocity didn’t change much from the top end to the bottom end. Highest velocity was 792 fps with a reading of 10 on the scale. Lowest velocity was 757 fps with a reading of 1 on the scale. That is only a drop of 35 fps threw the whole range.
My question is; what gives? Is the old Talon working right or is both of them working right.
I’m thinking the new Talon is not working right, but I’m not for sure how much the velocity is suppose to change threw the whole range on the power adjustment.
Thanks for any in-put on this matter.
I like the numbers the new Talon is making as far extreme spread and energy range. Just confused on power adjustment.
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You have an old (round holes) and new (slots) Talon valves. They have different springs and so the newer valve will show less velocity at the same settings.
I bought a new Talon tank and valve and had the same issues when I was comparing it to old tank and valve.
It’s actually why I abandoned using the Talon tank and valves and went to the Condor valve and hammer weight with a 25 cal barrel… I wanted to set two Talon tank/valves to the same velocity so I could switch instead of filling (I was going to try to use the Talon SS for field target competition) but since they were old and new valves it was impossible even with changing the tophat gaps. I would have had to have very different gaps and change the power wheel to get the same velocities out of the two tanks.
The new tank has long slots instead of round holes. Old one has round holes.
I did some switching of the tanks around today.
The new gun with the old tank show a drop in fps as the power wheel was lowered.
The old gun with the new tank did not show much of a change in the fps. About the same as the new one. I have just came in from shooting over the chronograph 7 hours and I haven’t had time to enter the numbers into the computer.
So the problem is with the new tank.
On the new tank the gap of the top hat is smaller (.098) then the gap on the old tank (.137).
Would this smaller gap on the new tank cause the problem?
I could live with this problem. I just use the gun as it is and keep in mind that it is not adjustable.
Thank you guys for the help. Got to run before Uncle Hoot starts on RC. I seem to never get anything done when those two are at it.
No need, I was talking about the face of the brass part that sits directly behind the tophat (the only brass part you can see without removing the valve from the tank).
I don’t know about the valves. Never have took them out of the tank. I don’t think I would want to either.
As for the top hats, the old top hat has a gap of .137” and the new one has .098 of a gap.
If I move the top hat, which way would I need to move it to get less power or more of a spread in the fps?
Tomorrow I’ll try using the old tank on the new gun and see what happens.
On the brass faces of the valves does the old one have holes and the new one have slots?
I have found the newer Talon valves (with the slots) need more PW to shoot at the same level as the old (with the holes) Talon valves… And not just a little PW, a lot more PW.
Also try taking the tank off the newer one and putting it in the older rifle, granted the top hat gaps will need to be close to make a rough comparison…
My .177 is running the JSB 10.2g at 866 fps. So it looks like the 177 is about right.
Maybe the new gun just needs breaking in more.
I didn’t get the chronograph until after the 177 was a year old or so.
3k on the fill pressure. I was looking for the “sweet spot” but it all looks the same.
Still don’t see why the 177 power wheel makes so much of a difference in FPS.
for now i would leave it down, less preload the better. remember the powerwheel isnt going to be as responsive on a short barreled gun. seems the valve is opening easily, more preload will just beat up the stem. whats your fill pressure?
The new talon could need some break in and maybe a top hat adjustment. Remember that a 22 is heavier and slower than a 177. My TSS 177 12″ running 10.2gn kodiaks run about 890fps.
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I bought a new Talon tank and valve and had the same issues when I was comparing it to old tank and valve.
It’s actually why I abandoned using the Talon tank and valves and went to the Condor valve and hammer weight with a 25 cal barrel… I wanted to set two Talon tank/valves to the same velocity so I could switch instead of filling (I was going to try to use the Talon SS for field target competition) but since they were old and new valves it was impossible even with changing the tophat gaps. I would have had to have very different gaps and change the power wheel to get the same velocities out of the two tanks.
even with two new or two old style tanks its not uncommon to have two very different top hat settings to get the two tanks within a few FPS of eachother for swaping out..
Greg