bolt flop?
What keeps the bolt to one side? It seems like it can move back and forth pretty easy? I am guessing that as long as it does not take out some of the hammer force it will be ok? Also after shooting it looks like the bolt jumps out of its grove? Is this ok? I am not getting any blow by and the gun is brand new.
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doug,
i still want one of those knobs, damm you!
what do you suppose the physics behind the improvement is?
Jeepers Dyotat… see if it’ll split a 4″x4″. 🙂
Thanks for the credit. I think it’s stupid how they only cut it enough so it is barely around the corner of the thinest part of the frame. I made a new knob now that has a piece of acetal on it simular to your tubing. So far it is holding up. I did some shooting last Monday and shot probably 20 shots with the helium tank. First one broke the sound barrier with a 9 ring. Only gun that was louder then my .25 was a real .308.
Tested rifle with the breach improvement and 90 duro breach seals.
Chrony showed increased FPS and improved consistenty.
Whats more important, shooting this beast is more pleasant and improved accuracy proven at my 25, 45 and 70 yard ranges.
All is good 😀
Yes I have had more FPS speeds when the bolt would jump up and around somewhat. I know it hard to beleive, but I have had this happen enough that I have even purposely not put the bolt knob in the right locked down place to see for sure. Its just flat not as consistent like that.
What I think is going on is the amount of impact from the hammer is absorbed from this extra movement. That is what I have decided it was anyway. Now with that said, I don’t really care for the delrin breeches and I have this aluminum breech I chewed out, its not as forgiving in the first place. It takes what the hammer gives and sends it on its way to the tophat, stem and valve.
I can see how the delrin would be more forgiving in this area and might not notice as much change, I want all the energy from the hammer, the only bad thing is the added noise from the hammer hitting the metal breech, which is not such a problem or I would get someone to make me a breech with a piece of deadening material in one end of the breech and/or hammer…
So far now this Condor beast of mine does really good, just make sure to park the claw looking breech handle I made and all is good LOL
nt
Sweet, thanks for the info, I like the tubing idea.
I too got tired of the bolt knob flopping around, making unnessary noise when shooting.
When I replaced my breech seals with duro 90 orings I decided to extend the slot in the frame.
I also installed a new, thicker bushing made from plastic water tubing.
I was getting a popping noise from the breech before these improvements.
The only thing, now I notice the report from the muzzle end more 🙂
I got this idea from Dyotat100 :thumb:
Bushing made from plastic water tubing.
You could make a spot for the knob to set in the frame if you wanted to, but not that importantant to me sometimes I just pull the breech straight back and shoot, Rowdy, do you really get more fps having it in a locked position, maybe you get a double shot of air.
Yews and another reason I wanted the side out bolt knob on my Condor… My side out and the weight of the new style stainless claw looking knob I got on the Condor and the deeper notch I cut in the frame really adds better accuracy from more consistancy in how the hammer hits the breech and dumps all its energy from the breech to the tophat.
You get that breech all jumping around and you can see the difference in mine on the Chrony, big time… I do not get into the breech not having a locked in place once you get the rifle cocked and ready to fire…
It doesn’t have to be a snug fit in the locked position, it just needs a place where its naturally in the locked place and doesn’t jump out and around… With the side out bolt I have gravity keeping it in place and then the weight of the claw helps LOL…
nt
They all jump like that
afaik the little notch at the end is just for confirmation that you’ve drawn it back far enough to close the breech. it does not absolutely need to be secured to fire properly. I doubt there is anything wrong with your rifle.
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I have been working since last Wednesday and no time for parts. I have my new internal threading bar so I can make the SCBA caps and the wheel part of the power wheel. Really going to work on the .308 build. Fire has been lit and Im going to get it going next week.