Q:

Top hat lose, how to fix it?

Today, I found that my talon top hat valve is a little bit lose.

does it effect the accuracy?

How to fix it? I found that it has 2 small hole in the side of the top hat, does it is a small hex screw?

Regards
Markus

General Chat

All Replies

Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)

quote moneyshot:

i got a crazy idea…

buy a tall 1 piece from tony, and slowly shim until she is spot on…

Shim what? Where?

i got a crazy idea…

buy a tall 1 piece from tony, and slowly shim until she is spot on…

The trick with JB weld it the area needs to be degreased and clean with acetone.

For a top hat you should clean all threads with acetone and rub it down really well. Then mix the JB weld very well for about a minute in all directions.

Once it is applied wipe off all the excess and then put in a toaster oven on 100* for about 20 minutes and let cool down.

It will be rock solid

Pabs,

Not Viagra yet, but before that old wrinkled things starts getting limp, I will order enough Cials Daily dose to shame my horde of 25 Kings and 20-1 alloy.

Unlike some my age, I have no qualms about buying a hardon and bragging about it. 😆

Adam,

JB Weld fixes a lot of ailments, but I can’t get it to stick to my dick.

After two years of fucking with top hats, I still change them almost weekly.

Right now the 25 LBT Super is on 1.2 and I think the setting of the day on the 24 inch Condor King shooter is .80.

I think I have hit those top hats more times with a Bic in two years than the bowl of my old bong got in 10 years of use.

Still have the Bic and the Top hat, but not the bong, it became a Volcano and then I just grew out of the habit.

Regards,

Roachcreek

For you fellas who have a problem with loose top hats.

Just set it were it is best, measure gap, install JB weld on thread and screw on Top hat to proper gap.

Let it dry over night and you now have a 1 piece top hat ghetto style.

It release the JB weld use a lighter and heat it up past 350* to soften, if you ever need to remove it.

quote roachcreek:

Sure is easy to see why they make the one piece top hat/valve stem isn’t it.

RC

Tsk tsk RC, you should know better than that. Of course AF can’t make a set one piece tophat from the factory. Each valve is different, as is the spring/hammer/powerwheel. You have to experiment with the different set ups for your particular rifle before you know the final position of your tophat. THEN you can select a one piece stem. Strictly an aftermarket mod, to do away with the shitty AF ‘solution’

Those Viagra fucking with your brain again? 😉

Sure is easy to see why they make the one piece top hat/valve stem isn’t it.

RC

Set the tophat to the correct height for your rig( presuming you’ve got that far) Measure the gap between base of tophat and valve face. Get one of these guys to make you a one piece stem to that size.
Simples.

Markus,

There are supposed to be two small set screws in thee that take a .05 wrench. Did you buy the rifle used?

But not to worry, you can put the blue locktite on the valve stem and top hat threads , adjust it to where you want it and let it cure, it should stay put.

Someone may have stripped the top hat screw out and decided not to replace them, if they did not put locktight on the stem it would be why it is migrating with use.

Regards,

Roachcreek

quote roachcreek:

Markus,

If your asking about the screw on the top hat itself, and loosening the top hat so it screws up and down on the valve stem to put locktight on it, yes you can.

You can even take the valve stem compeletely out of the valve with air in the bottle and put it back in, the derlin seal that will slip off the valve stem will seal the air in the bottle. But you don’t need to do that to locktight the top hat.

If you ever do take the stem out, when you put the valve stem back in the bottle you have to dry fire the rifle a few times to get it to reseat the derlin seal.

But to just lock tight the top hat on the valve stem you can do that with the stem in the valve and not worry about loosing any air. You should unscrew the bottle off the rifle just to get at it easier.

I hope this is not confusing.

Regards,

Rpoachcreek

hello, RC

Sorry, I’m still confusing.

Today, I buy very small hex screw set to open the 2 small hole in the top hat.

But It is failed, so I’m confuse does the 2 small holes in the top hat is a hex screw or just a small hole?

I use torch light to see the small hole and found no hex screw there.

Thank you
Markus

Markus,

If your asking about the screw on the top hat itself, and loosening the top hat so it screws up and down on the valve stem to put locktight on it, yes you can.

You can even take the valve stem compeletely out of the valve with air in the bottle and put it back in, the derlin seal that will slip off the valve stem will seal the air in the bottle. But you don’t need to do that to locktight the top hat.

If you ever do take the stem out, when you put the valve stem back in the bottle you have to dry fire the rifle a few times to get it to reseat the derlin seal.

But to just lock tight the top hat on the valve stem you can do that with the stem in the valve and not worry about loosing any air. You should unscrew the bottle off the rifle just to get at it easier.

I hope this is not confusing.

Regards,

Rpoachcreek

quote roachcreek:

Markus,

Yes it really effects accuracy badly.

I have had to tighten those screws many times, and they still have come loose many times, and yes I use blue locktight.

The best method I have found is to put the locktight on the valve stem, screw the top hat back and forth before it sets up to coat the threads, then set it with the feeler gauges. Then make sure you have no locktight inside the valve stem. Then locktight the set screws.

Whether you use the locktight on the set screws or the valve stem or both, be sure to heat them if you want to move the top hat.

Regards,

Roachcreek

thank you RC can I release the top hat while the bottle still have pressure or better I empty the bottle?

regards
Markus

Markus,

Yes it really effects accuracy badly.

I have had to tighten those screws many times, and they still have come loose many times, and yes I use blue locktight.

The best method I have found is to put the locktight on the valve stem, screw the top hat back and forth before it sets up to coat the threads, then set it with the feeler gauges. Then make sure you have no locktight inside the valve stem. Then locktight the set screws.

Whether you use the locktight on the set screws or the valve stem or both, be sure to heat them if you want to move the top hat.

Regards,

Roachcreek

It been said a thousand time. So here’s one more put a drill bit in the port when tightening . And all shoud be fine

Use some blue loctite and very gently tighten those hex screws. Let the locktite dry for several hours before using again.

Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)

  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.