Explanation needed – lead in cutting
Can someone please explain to me how a lead in is cut into a barrel blank?
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Dyotat100, could you post some pics of a lead in?
Your going to have to build a tophat or a complete stem for the larger breech and barrel. If you don’t change the valve it will be at the same power or less because valve is still the same ID diameter and has to fill a larger barrel. I guess I need to figure away to make the .308 valves worth making for me.
I’ve been pondering the 303 and pellet to stay away from having to build a valve, If i step up to a .308 or something then it’s va;ve time and I’m not sure I want to take that on yet. with the .25 or the 303 it would just be mods and tunning
Anytime and everytime, you can shoot a bullet instead of a pellet in any caliber over 25, your miles ahead as far as long range acuracy and power is concerned.
I shoot long range a lot, and with Diablo pellets I see thru my scope about one in 5 or 6 do a big assed cork screw, it is just built into the projectile.
With bullets, it is a direct loop from gun to target like a curved laser beam, and I am talking about ranges where I dial in 100 or more inches of elevation.
You could not run fast enough to give me a pellet firing 9mm or a 30 caliber, well actually I would not run that fast because I could trade it for bullet molds.
Regards,
Roachcreek
We’ll have to see what the actual dimensions are on the new .30 cal guns. We might have some Lee molds that work but there’s not enough info on the gun or barrel to even hazard a guess right now.
If your going to go .303 you might as well do a .308. Plenty of slugs out there for for it. Plus its not a pellet and it’s amazing how far it shoots and the dust cloud it makes when it hits at 150 yds.
acutely it’s a .303… the Wolverine barrel.
do not quote me on this as I couldn’t find it again… but I believe I read somewhere that L/W is building the blanks and will have them for sale…. once again I could not find the post…
the barrel and pellet were developed together, and with daystate heading up the researching aspect I’m sure they will shoot good together. don’t know any real details of the pellets yet …..but that is also one of the downfalls… only one pellet to chose from were with the .25 there’s a shitload of choices and we all know Jerry’s kids swag some of the best shit out there for extreme knock down power hitting exactly were your dot is when you squeeze 😎
the cool factor of the .303 would be cooool tho
do I go for a .25… or get one of the new .30’s….
Well, what kind of ammo is available for the .30 ? If Jerry is making some, you know they’ll be good quality…
sounds like i’ve really ben over thinking this whole thing…
so, it really is Just a tapered Lead to get the head started and that’s it…
… now for the next thing to keep me awake at night thinking about…
do I go for a .25… or get one of the new .30’s….
I was talking with the OP about this and was saying that there isn’t really a set method, taper reamer would work well, so would that tapered abraisive stone.
What I have usually done for my barrels is to fold up some wet and dry abraisive paper do that it makes a cone shape, and just hold it in the bore, or wrap it around the chucking part of a drill bit, hold it at the angle that I want and use that. Keep checking the fit with pellets until I get the fit that I want. Then I polish the lead in to a mirror finish and that’s me done.
Dave
Yeah I can when I get home Saturday. I’m working on location right now. They are from mcmaster carr.
On my 25 LBT, I did it with a flex shaft dremel.
I used three oversized cratex rubber abrasive bits that I shaped down to the shape of the 25 LBT bullet.
These do not last long as being rubber they wear down, that is why I needed 3 of them. I kept several slugs near by to use as gauges and kept pushng them in to see if Ihad got it large enough for them to chamber. I only used one slug one time, then discarded it for a fresh one as I considered it sized down by the force I was using.
When I was finished, I could press fit the bullet into the chamber with firm thumb pressure, it is a taper fit.
Regards,
Roachcreek
Dyo, could you post some pics of this? I would love to do a barrel for myself…. but I’m scared to death I’ll f**k the lead in up!
I’ve been staring at the .22 lead for quite awhile and to me it kind of looks like a crown, maybe just a wee bit deeper, but an angled crown none the less….dose the angle make a difference or is the purpose just to remove a wee bit of riffling to get the head started and then seat in the riffling with the tail only coming into contact if using something to seat it?
I use a round tapered 320 grit stone file. Works good on smaller Calibers. On the .308 because the slugs are so long I bored the rifling out and then stone filed to knock the hard step off the rifling.
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Yeah but I won’t be home until Monday night. On cutting the leed in, all you are doing is smoothing out the rifling so you can push the pellet in. That’s why a stone is used and held by hand while barrel is spinning in the lathe.
The reason for that also is that the hole in your barrel is not always in the center of the barrel. So if you try cutting it with the lathe, your cut would be taking more of the rifling off one side then the other. Best to use a small 320 grit tapered stone file.