mates got an R3 in .22, UK based, some questions
Its presently shooting at 11.2fpe with 16gr AA fields, however he has some issues.
Accuracy is hit and miss, i read the thread here on mod clipping, will advise we look at this but was wondering about lead in on the barrel, do you think its worth us removing the barrel and polishing the lead in a little?
can anyone advise on the transfer port size, im thinking its around 4.5mm or larger?…can anyone advise what size it is ? I feel reducing this to around 3.7mm would help on a UK spec gun as right now the adjuster is wound right off.
have you guys polished the trigger sears at all, any other tweaks that can be done to smooth up the linkage etc?
I see a few guys are considering changing the barrel to a BSA…what are the reasons behind this? I run BSA barrels on my hw100’s so know the benefits but the R3 is supposed to have a bespoke LW barrel. Could we be seeing inaccuracy due to the barrel suiting much higher velocities?
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I always polish the in lead and crown on a new air gun. I like the pellet to be eased into the bore with little effort.
I saw a very noticeable improvement on my R3 25 cal long when I put a BSA Lonestar barrel on it. I don’t think that my R3 25 long had the newest LW barrel on it. I am on the waiting list for a R3 25 cal standard and it should have Ed’s latest LW barrel on it. I am really looking forward to seeing how it shoots!
With the BSA barrel, I don’t get near as many of the infamous JSB fliers as I did with the stock R3’s LW barrel. The BSA 25 cal barrels are actually .243” and swage the JSBs down when they are pushed thru the in lead. I spent a lot of time reshaping and polishing the BSA barrel before the pellets would ease into it.
I have shot the best 100 yard groups with it that I have ever shot with any air gun or powder burner and with only around 500 shots thru it; I hope that it is still breaking in.
I envy you and your ability to still get BSA barrels! I no longer have a source for them and I would like a couple of 24” long 22 and 25 cal blanks. I currently don’t have a use for them but, they would be nice to have, just in case.
If you can get a good quality BSA barrel, it wouldn’t hurt anything to try one out on the R3. You will have to have it cut to length, from the breech end then have the first 11.5” turned down from the stock .619” to the Matador’s .478”. You will also have to have each end threaded 12 mm X 1.25 mm pitch so it will screw into the breech block and the baffle nut will tighten up on the crown end.
The trigger can be adjusted to a point where it is actually very nice.
Thanks for the link….some info for you regards BSA Ultra barrels on HW100’s
The breech end of the BSA ULtra barrel is internally opened out to around 5.6mm for .22 and 4.6mm for .177 at a depth of 15mm, this means if installed as is you will get blow by and lose velocity. I have now bored my barrels in 15mm and brass sleeved them to 4.5 and 5.5mm, instant 2FPE gained and 25% raise of shot count. If you chopped the barrels at the breech end you will not see this issue.
BSA barrels on the whole are still very good, just do not use blanks, use S10 or scorpion or Hornet barrels, the FAC S10 barrel is 19inches from what I remember.
Hi there BT,
I take it you remember this thread by Yoda some time back…..??? 😉
http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=23507
I do think you may find some ideas in there somewhere. I would be reluctant to polishing anything inside breech and barrel end. The barrels have already been polished at LW……..
And yes, check for clipping first……
BSA barrels: I have swapped barrels too on my HW .22s. I bought barrels (even complete sub 12 ft/lbs Ultras) in the UK just to get the barrels into this country. The 12 ft/lbs Ultra barrels had no problems moving up to higher velocities, – so I don’t really think going from FAC levels back to sub 12 ft/lbs would make much of a difference. The BSA barrels fitted to R3s so far have not shown much of a difference if any (ask OldGoat) from that of the original LW barrels supplied by ED. I would be very surprised if the R3 LW barrels would be the cause of your problems…..
That said, rumours go that the BSA barrels are no longer what they used to be, – thanks to lack of funds for barrel machinery maintenance from GAMO……
Please keep us posted on any developments……
Cheers 😀
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we can’t buy blanks anymore…BSA shut off supply, i do however have a few here for my own guns and we can still get barrels for other guns as spares.
Now back to the Edgun…
Reread what I advised in the other thread and it was pretty much bang on the money…Yoda went down to a 2.5mm TP restrictor which I feel is to small and here is why…
he will have much more hammer than what is needed and does stand a chance of bottoming out the valve as the hammer smacks it..much like what happens on a Rapid…
So, I will now advise we look at getting the reg around 90bar, alter the TP to around 3.7mm and test a few hammer springs to see what gives the best consistency although we will need to match it to the exhaust spring.
If Ed reads this, please consider building and testing a UK spec gun, just turning down an FAC gun is ruining what is a good rifle.
For .177 95Bar reg 4mm TP
for .22 90Bar reg 3.7mm TP
for .25 80bar reg and 3.5mm TP
All these would suit sub 12FPE
Also, Ed you may need to reduce the volume in the exhaust chamber to get the reg to cycle properly for sub12 UK use, easy way of doing this is an Acetal or Delrin plug with a hole thru the middle…just reduce the volume with plastic so there is less air.
I was going to order an R3, kinda glad i did not now as it looks like we will have to rework the gun to get the most out of it in the UK at sub12, luckily both the owner and myself own lathes etc and can machine our own parts.