new to all this and need some help please
gun is brand new and im having a really hard time getting it sighted in. if i shoot at say 20 yards i can dial it in to cut holes. but if i move to 10 yard or 30 or 40 yards the up and down is probably 10inches off. im using a nikon 3 9 50 mm scope, with good rings low profile. filling the bottle to around 2600-2800 psi. oh and the gun is .25 caliber.
the only thing i can come up with is the scope sets so high above the actual barrel that line of sight is making it change that much with the trajectory. im hoping i can get this gun to shoot really good from around 10 to 50 yards. is that possible?
thanks robby
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Be careful shooting .25 pellets into trees. Know that they will likely completely penetrate the squirrel. They come down with plenty of retained energy. You should pick a spot in your yard and build a suitable backstop and bait it with peanut butter and black oil sunflower seeds. Discipline yourself to only shoot when they are in the kill zone. This will allow you to zero your scope for that exact distance while you are working out other issues like high pressure air supply, (how are you charging your TSS?), valve and hammer and probably a frame extension to quiet the beast.
Good Luck!….keep us posted.
im really just looking to take care of a few squirrels in my back yard, but sometimes they may be 15 or 20 yards to 30 or 40 yards. ive shot and own a ton of different powder rifles and ive had a few different pellet guns, rws 54 and a old benj that was my dads, but this is my first air charged gun. hated the rws because i couldnt buy a scope that it wouldnt break and i hate pumping the benj finger smasher! after reading your posts i checked the pressure in my scuba bottle, i think i was filling it to around 2400 psi so i guessing that was way to low. im just hoping i can get the gun to shoot from 15-20 yards to around 50. i understand i will have to compinsate in my scope some on distances. but mine had a 10 inch very and i knew real quick that there was no way i could ever be that accurate with that much rise and drop. im hoping to get it with in a few inches
i actually bought the air rifle and everything from dave at air archer. so i really dont know what all i have. i will say one thing the air archer kit is un freaking real fun… the thing will cut holes from 10 to 50 yards like nothing just a little scared to fling arrows in the trees lol
i really appreciate everyones help
robby
Hi Riff, thanks! I wanted Robby to see that 980fps with .25 caliber, 25 grain JSB Kings wasn’t something that came out of the box. My TSS is a .22, so I knew yours wasn’t stock and that it took more than just a few trips to the range to get it like that. Sometimes new guys see what we post and think that’s the way they come from AF. We know better.
Robby, I encourage you to ask questions. Riff and the others will help you along. The Condor valve flows much more air than the TSS valve. His hammer is heavier imparting more kinetic energy to the tophat/valve which opens that valve more effectively…especially at 3000+psi. His barrel is almost twice the legnth of the stock TSS barrel…that extra barrel allows Riff’s heavier hammer & “larger” valve do their job. That valve and hammer with a 12″ barrel would only waste air and make the gun louder.
Again, click on the TalonTunes banner at the top of this page and look at Tony’s valves, hammers, and other parts that really makes these guns what they can be. If you are not a tinkerer…send your gun to Tony and he’ll get it where you want it. No he’s not cheap, but it might be worth money in the long run.
My TSS is a stock .22 as that is all I need for killing the rats that my neighbor loves so dearly. It is also a great gun for plinking cans with the kids. I have quieted it down, polished and adjusted the tophat, vented the forward barrel bushing, and added a trirail. It does what I want it to do.
What do you want your .25 TSS to do for you, Robby? Do you hunt? Punch paper?
I didn’t see where robby specified it has a talon valve, but it is in the SS section so your maybe right. Having noted that, my last sentence of my first reply is still very valid particularly at the ranges robby specified.
Mine has a standard condor valve, no mods. Tophat gap not measured, just set til the chrony said to stop and fixed.
A 78 gram hammer made from an ACE hardware brass bushing, and a choke removed 22.5″ barrel. The barrel is well-seasoned and flitzed. Has well over 25,000 pellets down the bore which probably has a lot to do with how accurate it is.
To keep it quiet I made my own can with a carbon tube, aluminum adapter and delrin core based off a setup blodnob pictured here a few years ago.
The bottle charged with pure nitrogen to 2850psi.
The gun is actually detuned slightly, it likes to shoot these benjis at 1020fps but consistency is a tad better at 980. Its just 1 less on the PW.
All other mods are purely aesthetic. Hawke tactical scope, homemade grip, wokbutt and wok trigger shoe. A homemade level keeps it uncanted.
Years of figuring out how to set it up and a whole lot of trigger time have made it the all around go-to gun for anything from hornets and green army men to skunks and porcupines.
Its not the rifle in my sig pic, that’s my .20 caliber YN/JFK special for playing golf and insect hunting.
Anything else you want to know?
Hi Riff, what have you done to your .25 TSS to get the power up in the high 900’s? Are you using a 12″ barrel?…a condor valve? Please, tell us how you have built up your gun. 😉
Roughly 30 yards is pretty close to a perfect zero for these guns IMO. Mines zeroed at 29 yards, and hits 1″ high at 40 yards, and 1″ low again at 65 yards.
Out at 100 yards, I’m 9″ low of zero. .25 Benji domed at 980fps.
My scope is the standard height above the barrel on these guns, 3.6″.
If you are hitting 10″ high or low, something is very wrong or you are shooting very weak shots.
WOK, you’re a man of few words with the one of the best avatars! Thank you. 😉
take to barrel out of the gun and make sure your barrel bushings are tighten mine and alot of others come loose as hell that will make it very hard to sight it in :tag:
Hi Robby! Welcome to the madhouse.
Do you have a chronograph? They are invaluable when diagnosing and dialing in a pre-charged pnuematic airgun. PA lists the TSS in .25 as delivering 665fps. That’s slow for a .25. It will give you a very loopy tracectory, (as I mention again below.)
The scope does sit very high above the axis of the gun’s bore, and it will give you fits. Did you buy a scope with mildots? I hope so. Is it a 1″ or 30mm? (the 30mm will give you more elevation adjustment.) Also the .25 caliber is loopy in its trajectory; that’s not going to help. But the .25, at higher velocities, really rocks!
Have you checked your scope rings to verify that they are true to each other? You do this by assembling both scope rings together with the caps on and without the scope. Run your finger inside the rings. There should be no step off between the two. (I’m fairly sure that this isn’t your problem, but it’s a drag to spend hours and lots of pellets and air only to find that your rings don’t line up right.)
10 yards is close! My rat killing distance is 8 yards…also very close. When you crank the reticle all the way down so that you can hit close in, the reticle leaves the optical center of the scope and strange things begin to happen, like the point of impact shifts all over the place. So, you can cut a piece of one gallon milk jug polyethelene to place under the scope in the rear ring, (I think…it’s been a while.) Don’t tighten the ring caps to tightly. You don’t want to damage the scope. Zero at your close distance. Then shoot at further targets and see which mildots hit at which different distances. This is a pain in the butt and all goes back to the height of the scope above the bore.
With a good scope, you can change the turret settings. Again, this is trial and error. You’ll zero at a given distance and the walk your target out to further distances and determine how many clicks you have to go to get the crosshairs on your target at the further distances…of course you record this info and refer to it often. (Like make a little round card that fits inside your scope cover cap.)
You will notice that in the Other Guns section, we shoot many other guns that have their scope’s axis much closer to the axis of the bore thus eliminating some of this fire drill. Many of us started with an AF gun and then searched for something else. Or, we read about different members having great experiences with other guns and away we went. I call it the airgun journey.
The AirForce Trirail gets the scope up higher so that you can see through it properly. But that also raises the scope more. Click on the TalonTunes banner above and check out the TalonTunes Tank Adapter that Tony sells that lowers the tank instead of raising the scope. You can also fill through it and see huw much air pressure is still in your tank. Slick!
HHas anybody mentioned frame flex yet? The frames are subject to a flexing at the breech when they are gripped too tightly. This will cause POI changes that can’t be explained. So, don’t gorilla grip you gun. Hold it gently…now we are back to the trirail again, only this time to stiffen up the frame. Are you having fun yet? Of course your! These guns are a blast!!! Getting them dialed in for your particular type of shooting is half the fun. You will learn much along the way.
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Robby, how is you TSS doing? Have you had time to work with it at all?