Q:

molding

Has anyone had experience molding slugs for 177 or 22. I saw on utube a mold kit for making 177 or 22. Nomad-pelletmaker.weebly.com/ . Any thoughts. Price shipped from uk is $185, kind of steep if it doesn’t improve accuracy.

Talon/Talon SS

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Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)

Yes sir!,, i have been rolling the crossmans and others for some time now. i have weighted them and i have rolled them , f, a bunch of weighting them, takes to long and it does not make as big a difference as the size of the pellet, which rolling them does real quickly.

when you roll them it sizes the pellet into batches , then you pick the batch that shoot in your gun the best . very quick and easy, but then again only necessary for the most precise work,

i don’t shoot my rolled crossman HP’s pellets for plinking and such, i use them for shooting game and target work. I dont think they replace JSB or crosman brown box for the best precise shooting, but they are close for way cheaper with roll sorting. Thanks to Yarrhh for showing us the way.

You using the Yarrh “roll-Test” I’ve been wanting to try it!

Mike

LOL, Knife maker you know i just cant resist picking up another can of those cros hollow points when in wal mart shopping, besides i have to go thru the sporting goods ,just because you know.

I have found the same as you , but in my condor and rws springers they dont do bad for the money, and if you roll sort them, they do really well if you want to take the time,

but i have learned that when even shooting casually that if a pellet goes in the barrel really hard or really loose when using the crosman hp and tin pellets to let it go into the ground, or if i am really serious where i am wanting it to shoot , or if the first bunch of a group were all loose and the last in tight let it go , and try the next to get one that feels the same gong into the bore as the others anyway . 🙂

but rolled it pretty much does away with all this, and they shoot just about as good as the brown box , except for the most precise shooting.

that way i can save the JSB’s for the fine work 🙂

Sadly, I have tried the cross. pelletrs in the tin. some fit fine, some very tight, while some give no resistance at all. Just sitting in the chamber loose.

How do they shoot? Same answer. Some tack drivers, some off a little, some give the word Flyers a new MEANING!!! 👿

Long and short of it, is I thought I could save a little money. Yeah, right!

After a half harted attempt, I quickly realized that there were so many throw-aways, that the box ended up being cheaper! 😆

Mike

Patrick,

I am going by what I have read on a few forums and on the Pyramyd blog, this is a reoccuring subject so I do believe it to be true.

Pellets are stamped with dies, Brown box pellets are stamped with the same die for the entire box of what 1 or 2 thousand and the die number is stamped on the box. As a result they are much more consistant.

The contents of the tins are the left overs from that production cleaned up after several different die runs. Not to say they are not very good pellets, they are just made from several different dies.

Now for you and I just hunting and plinking with our air guns that is no big deal, but for a serious comptetitor it is a big deal.

The guys who are very serious about this can tell you which specific die shoots the bet in their rifle and as a result are always looking for that specific die run.

Hope this clarifies this subject for you.

Regards,

Roachcreek

quote roachcreek:

Another comparison is the Crosman brown box pellets and which die they were made from compared to Corsman tin pellets that a true competetier probably would turn his nose up at.

Not to be getting off subject here, and I may be misunderstanding. Are you saying that the crosman pellets that come in the brown box are of a better quality than the ones in the round tins? I have no problem with this, I’m just curious to know.

Patrick.

Thanks for the info guys. Lots to think about.

Perhaps we are saying the same thing.

The mold is a POS core mold.

The bullets are finished in a pound swage die.

The projectiles thus formed may indeed have issues as you point out.
Too cold cores, no bleed holes for weight control, consistent forming of bullets.

Casting since 1980, swaging since 2000 but experience is only part of the understanding.
🙂
Cheers

Read my post again “oh reading compromised Canadian”, 😛 I am refering to the Mold, and never did I write anything saying it was not casting cores for a swaging die.

Having used both molds, swage dies and core molds for decades, I stand by my remarks that this is a ill concieved product.

And you how long have you been swaging and casting Walter? 😛

Seriously Walter, here is another way to look at this product and the primitive nature of it.

Each untried batch of JSB’s, one of the most consistant pellet in the world, seems to hold the air gun communinty hostage over what the head diameter is going to be.

Ever watch the classifieds and the advertisements regarding this and what color the tims are?

Another comparison is the Crosman brown box pellets and which die they were made from compared to Corsman tin pellets that a true competetier probably would turn his nose up at.

Compare that to a mold that has to be handled by gloves, so it can’t get hot enough to fill out properly and cast cores of consistant weight, then add the fact that your whacking it with a hammer to try and get an inconsistant core cast with a improperly heated mold to make pellets.

Regards,

Roachcreek

quote roachcreek:

Sorry Walter but I think your wrong, the pictures I saw of it showed that the mod splits in half to expell the cores.

I am very familiar with core molds having cast maybe 12 to 15 thousand of them in my career with adjustable Corbin core molds.

It is a butterfly mold, not a ram cylinder mold Walter, that means for each cast you would have to remove it from a vice.

Sorry Walter but your wrong.

RC

And I did rewrite this to be nicer!

Rare as that is this ain’t one of them.
Here is the swage die

http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n633/Riyame/Weebley%20pellet%20maker/P1020496.jpg

August,

I was just going to post on that very subject.

I used a set of corbin dies and a mold to cast cores, swage 22lr hulls into jackets and make a dandy little 223 HP for my AR and other 223 rilfes for about 35 years, I won a couple rifle championships with them, and also had a pure lead one to swage slugs for paper patch bullets in my 45/70’s and 45/100’s.

My dies fit in a Rockchucker press, and as such, you could adjust the pressure used to swage the core in the jacket, and form the point on the bullet.

Now the problem is that each and every time you whack that Nomad die ram with a hammer, your not going to use identicle force.

Corbin has made Pellet dies for air guns shooterrs using his much more sophisticated aproach compared to this ill concieved product, having said that I have not seen any groups from the Corbin product so I have to assume that they are not that good.

Now when you consider the cost of the mold and shipping to have the priveledge to fry your fingers with this wonderful product, not to mention the pure lead alloy cost which would be an absolute must, you could by a lot of very good shooting JSB’s.

I can’t get the video to play on my computer on the website, but I do get quite a chuckle seeing the gloves this nimrod is using on the mold.

Makes you wonder how many blistered fingered Englishmen actually cast bullets. Perhaps we should give them the gift of the knowledge of Lyman and RCBS mold handles?

Regards,

Roachcreek

I have been casting for quite a while myself. The brits make molds that don’t have handles and are held together with clamping pliars.

But aren’t pellets swaged and not cast? Seems to me to be almost impossible to get the precision you would need with a mold.

Sorry Walter but I think your wrong, the pictures I saw of it showed that the mod splits in half to expell the cores.

I am very familiar with core molds having cast maybe 12 to 15 thousand of them in my career with adjustable Corbin core molds.

It is a butterfly mold, not a ram cylinder mold Walter, that means for each cast you would have to remove it from a vice.

Sorry Walter but your wrong.

RC

And I did rewrite this to be nicer!

That weebly setup does not cast bullets. It casts cores for the swaging die. Mold is held in vise as there are no handles for it.

I bet you get a soso bullet. We have a guy on CAF trying one out. Looks okay.

Ibarberg,

Based of 40 years of casting bullets, which is the proper term not molding, I would say that set up is an absolute diasaster, a piece of shit conceived by someone who has no experience in casting bullets.

Your pouring hot lead into a mold, the lead and the mold have to get very hot, 750 to 800 degrees for the lead, in order to cast propper projectiles.

There is no way you can cast proper bullets with a mold if you have to hold it in your hands, there are simply no gloves made today which can protect you from that heat produced by the hot lead in the mold.

Reports from those who have used it have revealed very poor accuracy.

I have cast 25 caliber air gun bullets for my Condor for a couple of years now, altho I know of no one who has done it for the 22, it should be possible, I doubt if you would have too much luck with 177 tho, it is just to difficult to properly fill those little chambers.

Regards,

Roachcreek

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