New R3
I sold my 2.5 for a new R3 very happy with it so far, I was afraid to sell my 2.5 it was a tack driver, but I have only had time to shoot very little do to weather with the R3, and at 35 yards one hole was very apparent, I shoot allot at 50 yards under dime size with the 2.5, looks like to me I have another one that will do the same đŻ Ok my question for you guys, i adjusted my trigger easy to do and got it where I liked it, after I did this I looked at the sear enguagment and there was hardly none, so according to Eds video i have wathced before you want there to be more than I have mainly for safety reasons, and i had my 2.5 adjusted that way and I was able to get the trigger very light. My question is the R3 has a complete new housing, I took off the two screws by the trigger they are the same and one on the very back end of the bracket and it come loose but I could not pull it out and turn it like the older version? How do I get more sear enguament on this new R3? thanks Eddie
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Eddie, I have watched Ed’s video. I have took off the two screws by the trigger on my new R3 and found the new trigger housing. I have the same question like you. How to adjust the sear engagement (in or out) for safety reasons and how to adjust my trigger lighter on my new R3?
After reading this post
http://www.talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=16067
and found Oldgoat wrote:
“Trygve, here is how I adjust the trigger pull. I pull the action out of the stock and take both trigger adjusting screws out. I round the threaded end of a longer 3mm screw and put it in the front hole in the trigger. I donât use a screw in the second hole. I turn that screw in until the hammer will not cock and then back the screw out a little. Watch the rear of the trigger bar that is behind the unused second trigger screw hole. You donât want it to touch the trigger rod bar as the trigger is being pulled. If the rear of the trigger touches the bar, you lose mechanical advantage and the trigger pull will increase.
I start the fine tuning at that point.
I like a short and light first stage and then I want the trigger to come against a small ânotchâ A slight increase in pressure fires the gun. While I am adjusting the trigger, I cock the gun, slide the bolt back in just a little and pull the trigger. Holding the bolt all of the way back gives false trigger pull results. ”
I’ve done exactly what Oldgoat wrote above and I like the way my trigger worked. I used only one screw behind the trigger and removed a screw in the second hole. You will find the sear engagement (in or out) based on the screw behind the trigger (out or in).
Good luck Eddie and thank you Mamcrackin, Ted in Madison (new videos please Ted) and Oldgoat.