Changing for R3.5 parts
I have one quick question regarding the disassembly of my R3 : Is the load port (i don´t know what it´s called in English – the part in front of the breech housing that also houses the transfer port hole) just threaded on or is there some weird voodoo involved in its removal ? I´m updating the port and all the breech parts to R 3.5 and i need to remove/change that little housing too … 😯
Also – to my understanding the barrel is removed by just un-threading the “muffler” from the barrel and then i need to un-thread the shroud. Right ?? And then unthread (i quess – see the original question) that “load port” and proceed with the parts swap.
Anything else i should know ?? Thanks in advance !
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Here is a pic of what my trigger looks like…there’s no place for another screw. So I guess this is the new style trigger
Hi Kiba,
I thought that the valve was different, not the regulator?
I know what kind of changes Eduard has made to his valve, but:
If the regulator is different, what parts of it has been changed?
Regards, Robert.
Yes. You have the new trigger configuration on your gun if it only has one screw for adjustment (if you haven´t lost the other screw somewhere)
UGIMJ,
When I first got my R3 in May of ’12, the first thing I noticed was the nasty trigger feel. The first stage was long and the second stage was stiff. I followed OldGoats recommendation and remove the second trigger adjustment screw. The one closest to the breech. Taking that the screw off simplified things. I only needed to deal with one screw. I removed the remaining screw and polished the end to a shiny surface. I installed it. I was looking for a short first stage. I found it. It was smooth and stopped exactly before the let off. One more squeeze and the shot was off. The let off or second stage is not ultra light. I would estimate it is at a LBS or slightly less. I’m use to following trough with my sight pic and trigger squeeze so a heavy trigger does not bother me. I try to make trigger pull straight back with no lateral movement. It took me a lot of practice but I have it down. I know I’m not doing my part when my groups start moving to the right.
Maybe Ed got rid of the second screw because it complicated things. Simple is good.
Gabe G.
In regards to the trigger..my cousin just picked up a .25 cal matador and when I shot his it felt really hard to pull then after the shot the trigger got real floppy…now I read Ed said the new shipment would have a softer trigger and when I got my matador I noticed only 1 adjustment screw under the trigger and when I took my first shot I realized how much smoother it was for the trigger pull, and noticed after the shot the trigger didnt feel loose as the way my cousins did…now I still want to know if my matador has the “softer” trigger Ed was talking about
Thanks ! Well explained and helpful “review”. I quess i´ll go with the long one. I don´t do drive-by´s and if i would i have the .22 std for that. One more question – is the weight difference very noticeable or more of an balance point issue ? ❓
I also think the trigger system is somewhat different on the 3.5 but i´ve been wrong before – and often …
Kiba – what´s your take on differences between the std/long .25 ?? I´ll place an order for a .25 during next week and i´m under impression the long version would be the better choice but – as said – i have been wrong before. 😆
The R3.5 and R3 that I have both share the same trigger & hammer group… maybe the revised triggers that have been hinted at are coming in the next shipment. I received my R3 long in April of 2012 and the R3.5 standard in early February 2013 and the only differences as I said above are the breech block, bolt housing, bolt, bolt handle, and regulator assembly.
As far as standard vs long…
Having owned a R2.5 standard .22, R3 .25 long, and R3.5 .25 standard my favorite configuration I’ve used so far is the .25 long.
The objective differences are length obviously, air reservoir capacity, and efficiency / shots per fill. The long version gets more shots per fill because of the increased volume of the longer air reservoir and also because the longer barrel permits a lower regulator setting at the same velocity compared to the standard model with a shorter barrel. The long version is also a bit quieter than the standard because of the longer and therefore greater shroud volume.
Beyond that preferences are subjective… I prefer the balance and feel of the long version compared to the standard. Not to say the standard doesn’t feel good and balance well (it does)– I just prefer the feel of the long version. The long is a little heavier and balances more muzzle heavy than the standard does but I prefer that feel. The standard is balanced very neutral with the CG almost directly over the grip. If you use the rifle as Ed originally intended (i.e. out of a car window) the shorter length of the standard is much easier to maneuver inside of a car.
Either way you can’t go wrong, both standard and long are fantastic rifles. If you want more shots per fill and don’t mind a little bit of extra weight and length go for the long; if you want a great compromise between compact size while still getting plenty of shots per fill go for the standard. After owning my R2.5 standard for so long I figured I wouldn’t care for the extra length of the R3 .25 long; turns out I was wrong and the long is my favorite version.
O.K. There you have it. I thought the probe had 3 o-rings – don´t know where i got the impression though. Smart changes anyway.
I also think the trigger system is somewhat different on the 3.5 but i´ve been wrong before – and often …
Kiba – what´s your take on differences between the std/long .25 ?? I´ll place an order for a .25 during next week and i´m under impression the long version would be the better choice but – as said – i have been wrong before. 😆
As I have both an R3 .25 long and R3.5 .25 std at the moment, here’s the differences on the 3.5:
R3.5 has an aluminum breech block and bolt housing (R3 and below are steel.) The finish of the new aluminum breech block & bolt housing matches the anodized air reservoir and barrel mount/shroud much better than the R3. The R3 and earlier used a blued steel breech block and bolt housing and the blued steel finish didn’t match the anodized aluminum air reservoir and barrel mount/shroud.
Different bolt and bolt handle on 3.5 to work with the aluminum bolt housing. While the bolt itself on the R3.5 is still steel (and still has 2 o-rings) the R3.5 bolt handle itself is stainless now; the bare steel bolt handle on the R3 and earlier are susceptible to rusting in damp climates or if you don’t wipe your oils/sweat off the bolt handle at the end of every day with an oiled cloth. Found that out the hard way on my old R2.5– I used it on a very hot summer afternoon shooting ground squirrels and had my sweaty handprints all over the bolt handle. By the next morning the whole thing was covered in a nice layer of surface rust… oops. The redesigned bolt handle on the R3.5 means you should only be grabbing the stainless portion meaning you won’t rust it from hand contact & sweat.
R3.5 regulator has slight revisions and is slightly more air efficient.
Don´t know anything about that. I f###ed up the breech and needed a new one. Will have a new Eddie in cal. 25 in Sep. – Oct. so i figure it´ll have the new stuff on it. My less than educated quess only though…
Don´t take this as an announcement for a new upcoming modell since i know nothing. Less than that even.
A link : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K28F4-N-BtM&list=UU_JKlBedZ05YtUDTCGLpeBQ&index=9
When did the 3.5s come out?
Are the new shipments now 3.5?
The breech housing is aluminium. The bolt is far sturdier , the bolt handle is of a somewhat different shape and the bolt probe has 3 o-rings whereas the R3 “only” has two.
Just decided to place an order for one R3.5 long in cal. 25. If it´s as accurate as my std .22 i´ll be a happy man. Cal. 25 isn´t “haute couture” here in Europe but different trends (actually i think it´s due the restrictive laws in many European countries) have never been a deciding factor for me.
I march to a beat of a different drummer – when the marching band decides to turn left that´s a reason enough for me to make a right turn. 😀
This might be a strange question but;
What is the exact difference between a R3 and a R3.5?
Regards, Robert
Never mind! I found Ed´s video for barrel removal. It´s indeed just threaded on.
Anything else i should know ? Goat ? Hoot ?? Anybody ???
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… and so it is … :thumb: :thumb: