Q:

A 257 Cast Bullet Reference Guide

Hello Gents and Gals,

PURPOSE:
This page is a page that is dedicated to the .257 caliber Air Gun (s). Call it a Dedication Page, or call it a Reference Page or call it a Info Page, it’s all of the above. This page will stay updated with “CURRENT” info and will contain info on the guns that are available in 257. And that’s the point of the page, to share information regarding the 257 caliber Air gun and to become a quick reference page for anything that has anything to do with the .257″. This will be a page that can be found quickly and will contain all “CURRENT” info on the 257. That means MORE work for me and LESS work for you.

HISTORY:
The 257 caliber powder burner cartridge has been around since about the 1920’s. But in air guns, a 257 caliber powder burner barrel liner from TJ Enterprises has only been recently installed on a current air gun. As far as we know, Jack Haley and John Bowman are the 1st creators of such said air gun/caliber combos. And this gun is the Jack Haley .257 Scandalous which won L.A.S.S.O. in 2012 on its maiden voyage in the hands of John Bowman. L.A.S.S.O. is short for “Longrange Airgun Silhouette Shooters Organization” and it is simply and event for Air Guns only and steel targets are set up out to 300 yards. The 257 Scandalous quickly gained notoriety for what it was capable of. And that is……Long Range Accuracy and power. John Bowman would also often dispatch coyotes at well over 300 yards. John Bowman has shot 10’s of thousand’s of cast bullets in the 257 Air Gun and has openly shared all that he has learned. We owe much of what we know about the 257 today to Jack and John. The Haley Scandalous 257 is a very powerful, accurate and traditional Air Gun. Web links and pictures below.

CURRENT:
Doug Noble is an avid air gunner and an excellent machinist. Today, Doug is transforming the Airforce line of guns into 257 caliber beast. Doug has a history of machining since his early High School days and his current work on the Air Force line of guns is exceptional. His many post and pictures can be viewed right here on this very forum. Air force Air Guns have been around since 1994 and currently manufacture about 6 types of air guns. Air Force air guns are not very traditional looking and might remind you of an AR-15 type gun. No traditional wood and steel and bolt handle on these…lol! The Air force gun massaged over by Doug is one powerful and accurate “NON TRADITIONAL” rig. Web links and pictures below.
Also, .257 Airforce airguns can be bought from Randy at RandL Airguns (http://www.rlairgunsupply.com/).

CALIBER:
The .257 by nature is a small game to medium game caliber. In powder burner format such as the 257 Roberts or Weatherby…etc…etc…etc, it can take Deer/Antelope sized game at some decent hunting distances depending on bullet construction/manufacturer. But in an air gun, we stick mostly to Coyote sized game at the biggest. Its one of the best small/medium game calibers IMHO. Bullets will range from about 60+ grs up to roughly 120 grs. Nominal O.D. of bullets will depend largely on groove diameter of ones barrel on his/her gun. But sizes will run between .257-.258″ as somewhat of a norm. But again, sizes can be up to about .260″+. The B.C. or Ballistic Coefficient of many available bullets will range from .129+- up to roughly over .300 BC. And in comparison to the typical .251 caliber Diablo Pellet such as JSB, Bejamin or Beeman (H&N), which has a BC of about .030+-, the lightest .257 bullet will have roughly 4x’s more BC. So as you can see, the 257 in an air gun pushing 900-1130 fps can do some amazing distance shooting and retain a lot of energy. I MEAN……..FOR AN AIRGUN AND ALL………………….LOL!

PICTURES:
Here are various pictures of some current 257 caliber air guns


John Bowman and his 257 Haley Scandalous. Winner at L.A.S.S.O. 2012



Cedric aka Tofazfou shooting his Doug Noble TalonDor 257 Cal.


Doug shooting his custom/self built Condor 257


Joe Grits 257 Condor by Doug


RJ Porter’s Haley 257 Scandalous



RoachCreek’s Haley 257 Scandalous

.257 BULLET MOLDS (manufacturers):
RCBS MOLDS – http://www.rcbs.com/
LYMAN (IDEAL) MOLDS – http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/home/
NOE MOLDS – http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/index.php?osCsid=j7u9gieqlre78413k41t63lb31
HOCH MOLDS- http://hochmoulds.com/index-1.htm
LBT MOLDS (custom molds available) – http://lbtmoulds.com/index.shtml
ARSENAL MOLDS – http://arsenalmolds.com/

BULLET CASTING EQUIPMENT:
BCE can be bought from a multitude of websites and or stores. I refuse to list any in particular cause individual results might vary. But places like MIDWAY USA is a decent place to start if you want to get into casting. Bullet casting is NOT for everyone and its time consuming. At the same time, like reloading, it’s very rewarding. It also does not take a lot of equipment to get started. Here is a list of what’s needed to start casting for the 257 (or ANY caliber):
1. Safety Goggles or Glasses or even a Face Shield
2. Long sleeve Denim shirt
3. Brushed Leather Gloves
4. Long pants in either Denim or another NON FLAMMABLE material
5. 257 Bullet Mold
6. Plenty of lead
7. LYMAN, LEE or RCBS melting pot (20 lbs is a good). You can use a propane burner with some type of cast iron pot also. But that’s up to you. Do your homework.
8. Dipper/Ladle
9. Either a reloading press or a LEE hand press that will accept a standard 7/8×14 TPI sizer die
10. Bullet Lube and some studying/advise and some Common sense

Many of these molds can be found at a multitude of websites. Here is one such example: http://www.justbulletmolds.com/. Since there is always more than one website for any particular product, I will leave the shopping and goggling up to the buyer/reader who wants to shop for the lowest price on product and shipping. The web links posted up above for molds is just a guideline and not the single BEST website for said product.

PICTURES OF VARIOUS MOLDS IN .257

Doug’s 77 gr FP LBT mold


Roachcreek’s 100 gr NOE FP Mold


Tofazfou’s 74 gr FP LYMAN 257420 Mold with custom HP Pin by ERIC at HP MOLD SERVICES


Tofazfou’s 80 gr NOE FP Mold


Lyman 257 Mold



Arsenal 257420 Mold

VARIOUS .257 BULLETS:

LYMAN 257420 bullets cast by Tofazfou. FP and HP


IDEAL 100 gr HP Spitzer cast by RJ Porter


HOCH 109 gr FP’s in 20-1 lead/tin cast by Roachcreek


Various bullets cast by Tofazfou, RJ Porter and Hunters Supply


NOE 100 gr FP’s in 20-1 lead/tin cast by Roachcreek


NOE 78.3 gr HP vs 83.5 gr FP


Lyman 257420 vs NOE 80 gr

VARIOUS CAST BULLET BC #’s:
LYMAN 67 gr LFN GC 257420 = .129
LYMAN 89 gr LRN LOV GC 257464 = .204
LYMAN 89 gr LFN GC 257312 = .208
LYMAN 98 gr LSP GC 257418 = .221
LYMAN 113 gr LRN GC 257325 = .235
RCBS 117gr SP GC 257-120-SP = .271

Here is a PROCEDURE on “FIRE LAPPING” your airguns barrel submitted by Roach Creek:

Fire lapping a barrel.

I have fire lapped several rifles in my shooting career, most of them center fires that used jacketed bullets and I did it for improved accuracy, the 257 bore air guns I did for a different reason.

I fire lapped my two TJ Barrels for my Haley because I wanted them to be smoother inside to allow more shots between cleaning and for easier cleaning once fouled. Before fire lapping I was getting around 20 shots before I had considerable streaking and accuracy degradation, now it around 45 shots.

When I cleaned I used fine bronze wool on a 25 caliber brush and then followed it up with several doubled patches on a jag, then followed by #10 weight silicone oil to prep the barrel for the first shot lubed with #10 silicone oil. After fire lapping all but the most stubborn transfer deposits are removed with double patches.

The 1-14 barrel, I fire lapped with a Wheeler engineering kit from Midway, I had used their kits before and they had worked, so I was comfortable sending abrasive coated bullets down my bore, yes that does sound drastic, which is why I wanted to go with a proven, to me kit.

I prefer fire lapping to hand lapping due to the fact I ruined a Mini 14 barrel in my misspent youth and have never revisited hand lapping since.

The kit comes with three grits in little jars, 220. 320 and 600. Also included are two 1 inch by 2 inch steel plates and very clear instructions.

On my 1-14 barrel I followed the instructions on the kit, but used 15 shots per grit instead of the recommended 20 , 220. 320 and 600 and I cleaned thoroughly each 5 shots and thoroughly between grits. In the end I had a very smooth bore that resists fouling and cleans easier once it needs cleaning.

Then I fire lapped my 1-10 twist barrel and things were different.

First of all I did not use the 220 grit and I checked between shots because I was not using lube on the bullets as before so I was interested to see if they were fouling without lube because I had not checked that before on the 1-14.

And indeed they were, if I fired one shot, I could not notice fouling, on the 2nd shot I did notice fouling and on the 3rd shot I had major streaks. As a result I fired 20 shots of 320, cleaning thoroughly between shots, which is one hell of a lot of work, and then after those 20 shots I switched to 600 grit and I fired 25 shots, cleaning each time between shots.

To me the cleaning between shots was a no brainer. If I have streaking, I am polishing the lead deposited in the bore, not the bore.

When I shot the rifle after cleaning I also noticed again something different, the accuracy with100 grain NOE bullets had noticeably improved, and of course the shot count between cleaning had also.

I had miked my groove diameter prior to fire lapping and could not notice a difference in pre and prior lapping, but I was also using my “Harbor Freight caliper for the blind” so it was hard to tell if anything had changed in dimensions. Doug slugged the barrel when I had it set back for recutting the lead, it slugged out within the norms of other TJ barrels, just one heck of a lot smoother.

I did this on the 1-10 after I had cut the lead for 100 grain NOE bullets, I did not notice a increase in the lead dimensions or that they chamber any easier, they are still in that “putting a cork in a wine bottle category”.

I fully recommend the Wheeler engineering fire lap kit, but I would recommend cleaning every shot and not using the 220 grit.

Regards,

Roachcreek

VARIOUS RECOMMENDATIONS:

Cast bullet supplier that I recommend:
RJ PORTER – http://www.accuratebigboreairgunammo.webs.com/

Jack Haley Airguns (please read his webpage): ******MR HALEY PASSED AND THE WEBSITE NO LONGER EXIST – I CHOOSE TO KEEP IT UP******
http://www.southernairgunconversion.com/

CUSTOM 257 Air Force Condors: ******DOUG NO LONGER MAKES CUSTOM CONDORS******
Doug @ dyotat100@aol.com

For Hollow Pointing any bullet mold contact Eric at:
http://www.hollowpointmold.com/

.257 Barrels by TJ Enterprises

101 “QUICK TIPS/FACTS” about the 257

1. Best bang for your buck barrel in .257 is the TJ Enterprises barrel liner (Google this company name for pricing and phone number. No internet sales)
2. Common bore and groove dimensions are .250 BORE/.257 GROOVE
3. Common O.D. dimensions of TJ barrels tend to be roughly 9/16″ (.562″+-)
4. Pure Lead or 20-1 Lead seems to be the best to date
5. Hard Cast bullets don’t appear to be as accurate as Pure Lead in TJ’s barrel liners. But don’t discount harder cast bullets. These are firearm barrels.
6. Fire Lapping or Hand Lapping both work wonders in these barrels and are pretty much necessary to keep leading down and accuracy up
7. The more these barrels are shot, the more accurate they get
8. So far, accuracy is superb at velocities from 900 to about 1130 fps. More data to come. Please test velocity for your particular guns best accuracy
9. Various Air Guns and Barrel Manufacturers could be used for this project. The list is still growing.
10. To date, both the Condor and the Haley 257’s have hit Soda cans at 446, 502 and 552 yards!

IMO: Guns that DO and DON’T make for good 257 conversions
DOES – Jack Haley air guns (particularly the ones that fill to over 3600 psi)
DOES – DAQ air guns
DOES – Daystate Air Rangers (especially the 80 FPE version)
DOES – Daystate Wolverine 303 (expensive gun)
DOES – Big Bore EXTREME air guns
DOES – Korean Big Bore air guns (Shing Sun Career, Sumatra’s, Dragon Claws andSam Yang’s. And even the EVANIX 9mm guns)
DOES – XP Big Bore air guns including the Corsair
DOES – Air Force Condors
DOES – OF COURSE ANY CUSTOM BUILT or HIGHLY TUNED AIRGUN SUITED FOR MAKING SUCH POWER

DOES NOT – CALIBER CRICKETS (lol)
DOES NOT – EDGUNS
DOES NOT – FX BOSS 30 cal (too much restrictions within the guns internals)
DOES NOT – TOO MANY TO LIST HONESTLY (small bore air guns in general are not good for this conversion due to either TUBE size volume or internals that lack the ability to be highly modified. Many SB air guns are made for consistency while making 12-50 FPE of power and not 130-200 FPE)

***DISCLAIMER*** Due to a lack of knowledge on every single gun made today and also the machinist in existence and their capabilities, the above opinions are due to available current info and even the LACK OF. The sport is growing and the amount of people that are getting into 257 cal airgunning is steadily/slightly growing. So information is CREEPING in at a snails pace. But as more info comes out, the above listed info MIGHT change.

Game taken with the .257 cal.:




CUSTOM PARTS SECTION:
All parts by ADAM VIGIL (http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=9980):



http://www.maddogriflestocks.com/





MD stock on my TD257

Other Guns

All Replies

Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 363 total)

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The 65gr .257 mould from NOE is getting very close to production, since Bob and Al have come up with a couple of extra sizing options, increasing interest.
Anybody interested in adding their name can check it out at
http://noebulletmolds.com/smf/index.php/topic,1632.0.html

I’m looking forward to this for my .257 marauder which is at a comfortable 137 ftlb, which should push the 65gr up to high 900’s fps

Wll;

I may have answered you incorrectly. The bullets I am having so much luck with, and gave the .338 B.C. were the bullets I am casting are from a modded mold. I ordered a 104 FP Spitzer from NOE, and milled the blocks down to throw bullets at 82 gr. with 2% tin/lead mix. They are performing better than I could have imagined.

I milled off the last driving band in such a way, as to intersect the last lube grove exactly in it’s apex. This gave a tiny rebated boattail for the base. 😉

I will get the BC for the 388 when they arrive from Cedric. I need to send him some of these NOE bullets to play with also. Just been too darned LAZY!!! LOL!!! :rofl:

Knife

quote rifle50:

IMO you are going about it completely BACKWARDS……FIND THE SPEED in FPS that is the MOST ACCURATE, then TUNE for your CURVE around those parameters……Like almost every airgunner on these forums that I read about, concerned only with, HOW FAST CAN IT GO……Well if you can’t HIT what aiming at, speed means NOTHING.

Speed is FINE with accuracy…..I shoot with my newest barrel the 257420 at 3100 PSI at 1100 fps and most around 1090 fps. and it is ACCURATE. With my old crap TJ barrels, i tried 4000 psi once and have 4500 psi available if wanted, and shot 1300 fps and at 100 yds. As PSI and speed went up, groups got bigger and bigger….Grapefruit sized.

Why do you seem to want to RE-INVENT THE WHEEL? You start a new thread here and GTA for the same thing posted or titled before, instead of ADDING TO IT? If you searched thourouhly, and just THIS ENTIRE THREAD is HOW I LEARNED over a year ago, it is all in here. ALL including casting is posted in this page, and what you are doing, has been done and is NORMAL……You shoot with DOUG and why not take his ADVICE, install necessary equipment and just go shoot it…If you are as I UNDERSTAND IT using the STOCK CONDOR HAMMER? For 3600 psi is NOT ENOUGH HAMMER and needs at least the 95 gr and I USE 120 gram……You are not getting best use of your airtank.

KNIFE who is on here uses a 24″ barrel….Take his and DOUGS advice as THEY DO IT and then just go DO IT instead of thinking you are doing something NEW…..To you it may be but you are wasting time trying to figure it out…

You must be the person Doug wanted a CATALINA BOTTLE FOR?? He asked if I wanted to sell it as I haven’t used it in a year and I said since hard to get now, I will just keep it…..I got a curve with it of 10 shots and about 3200 psi as can’t remember now. With a 27″ barrel.That is the secret a LARGER VOLUME CAPACITY……. THEN a curve is very easy….I only shoot off bench and tethered so curve means nothing to me.

Carl

As it stands my gun is shooting just fine with 72gr pills and the standard hammer (I do have a hammer from Doug coming) 5 good shots is really all I was asking and I got that and then some, so I’m very happy with that. I very well may use the heavy hammer just because I can lower the PW and make the gun easier to cock. The PW at 4 with Doug’s heavy spring really does take some effort.

As far as the Catalina bottle, that will be used on another gun, for more shots without tethering, (I did not realize how heavy it is) I love the extra volume and the consistency that volume can give within reason. I have not decided what gun I will put that on, I may use it on my other 25 Condor, or possible on my SS in .22 — have not made up my mind yet 🙂

The ‘388 bullets were/are a “I wonder if I can get” type of thing and if I can get a reasonable speed then fine, if I can’t, so what, I’ll stay with the ‘420 slugs …. Lots of folks including yourself have used those with good success I believe.

My shots will never be as far as yours, 75yds to maybe 100yds at the very most. This is a fun little project and so far I’m very happy with the way things are going.

wll2506

IMO you are going about it completely BACKWARDS……FIND THE SPEED in FPS that is the MOST ACCURATE, then TUNE for your CURVE around those parameters……Like almost every airgunner on these forums that I read about, concerned only with, HOW FAST CAN IT GO……Well if you can’t HIT what aiming at, speed means NOTHING.

Speed is FINE with accuracy…..I shoot with my newest barrel the 257420 at 3100 PSI at 1100 fps and most around 1090 fps. and it is ACCURATE. With my old crap TJ barrels, i tried 4000 psi once and have 4500 psi available if wanted, and shot 1300 fps and at 100 yds. As PSI and speed went up, groups got bigger and bigger….Grapefruit sized.

Why do you seem to want to RE-INVENT THE WHEEL? You start a new thread here and GTA for the same thing posted or titled before, instead of ADDING TO IT? If you searched thourouhly, and just THIS ENTIRE THREAD is HOW I LEARNED over a year ago, it is all in here. ALL including casting is posted in this page, and what you are doing, has been done and is NORMAL……You shoot with DOUG and why not take his ADVICE, install necessary equipment and just go shoot it…If you are as I UNDERSTAND IT using the STOCK CONDOR HAMMER? For 3600 psi is NOT ENOUGH HAMMER and needs at least the 95 gr and I USE 120 gram……You are not getting best use of your airtank.

KNIFE who is on here uses a 24″ barrel….Take his and DOUGS advice as THEY DO IT and then just go DO IT instead of thinking you are doing something NEW…..To you it may be but you are wasting time trying to figure it out…

You must be the person Doug wanted a CATALINA BOTTLE FOR?? He asked if I wanted to sell it as I haven’t used it in a year and I said since hard to get now, I will just keep it…..I got a curve with it of 10 shots and about 3200 psi as can’t remember now. With a 27″ barrel.That is the secret a LARGER VOLUME CAPACITY……. THEN a curve is very easy….I only shoot off bench and tethered so curve means nothing to me.

Carl

quote LURKER #1:

Just for comparison, with my full Doug Noble modded 257 Condor,
Same Lyman 73 gr. 257420 bullet,
Approximate same hammer setting,
BUT…
3300 PSI Tethered,
32″ TJ barrel,
Avg. 1060 FPS

I haven’t done much shooting yet and the settings above were what gave me 985 FPS Shooting 92 gr. Arsenal LFN “Noble” bullets.
I imagine 1060 is to fast for the 73 gr.

Over a month since I got to the range but did get on paper at 200 yards with 10 shots in about a 10″ group of 71 gr. Arsenal Boat Tails.

I figure when I get my scope set up for Zero around 170 yards I may be able to use the top mil dot for 100 yards and the bottom mildot for 200 yards. :whistle:

Good going, I would love to get a 5 shot string using ‘388’s in the 950-975’s ;- )

I’m very happy and as this is a once in a while use type gun for a specific purpose, I’m very, very happy ;- ) Remember this gun will never be tethered, it is a hunting field gun, that I want to keep light. Will not use it for GS colonies or a field of rabbits … I have other guns for that, and would most likely use pellets not slugs

This gun is sighted in at 75 yds and I have 2.5ish” Zero Range to about 82 yards, for me a 82+ yard shot is pretty good. Some of this depends on if I put the .5 inch height rail base on the gun. This would be the only gun I would probably do this on.

Even though I don’t normally shoot long range, this gun CAN do it, and I will have a couple of marks in the 100 and 125 yard area. This is not long range for most folks, but it is for me ;- )

wll2506

Continued 8-20-16:

After shooting some 85gr’res at 940fps that were undersized, My mistake for not checking) and fit in the chamber without any resistance … I’m pretty sure I can get in the 950+ fps tomorrow. This is with the same PW setting and PSI (3600) that I’m using with the 72gr pills. I’m averaging 995+ with the 72gr bullets sized correctly.

If, in fact if I can get 950+ fps shooting 85gr bullets, that is some kind of Coyote gun for sure, I’m figuring with a BC of .180 … I would love someone to do a test to find out what the BC really is using LabRadar !

Getting a curve and a higher velocity would seriously be awesome … I’m already loving 995+fps with 72 gr bullets, now I’m just seeing what I can get without going crazy ! I may give the PW a boost of a partial turn to see if she will shoot the 85 gr pills at the 72gr velocity ….. That would be OFF THE CHARTS ;- )

wll2506

Just for comparison, with my full Doug Noble modded 257 Condor,
Same Lyman 73 gr. 257420 bullet,
Approximate same hammer setting,
BUT…
3300 PSI Tethered,
32″ TJ barrel,
Avg. 1060 FPS

I haven’t done much shooting yet and the settings above were what gave me 985 FPS Shooting 92 gr. Arsenal LFN “Noble” bullets.
I imagine 1060 is to fast for the 73 gr.

Over a month since I got to the range but did get on paper at 200 yards with 10 shots in about a 10″ group of 71 gr. Arsenal Boat Tails.

I figure when I get my scope set up for Zero around 170 yards I may be able to use the top mil dot for 100 yards and the bottom mildot for 200 yards. :whistle:

Took off after work to test my gun out … Went to my shooting area and set up chrono in the 15+mph wind. Tank set to 3600psi
Shot 10 shots, the first two were at “O” on the PW and needed to be changed as shots were underpowered and I also changed the size of ammo, as the ammo was undersized … PW is now set to 4/0 and bullets sized to .257+

Results:
1) Velocity: 977, 993, 999, 1010, 1010, 1009, 1001, 994 (a great bell curve …. Start at 3600psi – End at 3000psi)

The Gun, Ammo and Parts:
1) Bullet: 73gr 257420
2) Doug’s Valve and Doug’s spring.
3) Standard 257 Condor 700mm barrel from R&L with shroud
4) Standard Condor hammer and weight as the Condor comes from the factory.
5) CF Tank from China .5L – 300bar ……. I will buy a couple more !

My Take !
I am absolutely ecstatic … My average velocity is 999fps … I may tailor this a bit and probably start at 3500psi as I planed to make the bell tighter .. 5 shots is what I was after and I far exceeded that, I’m really not sure if I want to touch anything —— I may have just hit the sweet spot on my first try ;- )

It is very easy to experiment and mess around for months and end up pretty much at your starting point. I really don’t want to up the spring tension so I truly think 3500psi may be the golden area for 5-7 shots …. I just may stick a fork in it .. it is done !

Key Important items for a 257 set up IMHO !
1) Doug’s Valve and Spring ! A MUST, if you don’t get this IMHO don’t even start !
2) A CF tank for 3500-3600 psi or a larger 3000psi aluminum tank for volume of air
3) A long 257 barrel … most the guys recommend the 27″ (700mm), but !!!!!!, the 32″ will give you faster speeds. My issue was I need a shroud and a 32″ barrel with a shroud (if they make it) would be way to long !

Anyway, there you have what I got today with my 257 Condor …. I’m extremely happy, if any of you have suggestions please post them I would love to hear your experiences.

Will test for accuracy when the wind is not blowing 15+ mph ; – )

wll2506

Went to Lowe’s and picked up some Rust-Oleum bed liner early this am, took it to the office and started to get down to business.. Sanded the tank and cleaned it and then gave it two coats … it is drying now …;- )

Took the breech off and took out the anti de-cocking arm … I was very, very surprised how easy this was to remove, and it WILL be done on all my Condor guns… Checked the safety out and everything works perfectly, no problems what so ever. The ability to de-cock the gun is a HUGE deal, much bigger than I was ready to admit..The fact that I use all my Condor guns in hunting scenarios almost exclusively, I should have done this with my first Condor, I was foolish not too. Safety is now manual, but that OK for me.

I think I will be able to fill it up today and maybe shoot her tomorrow.

My Accurate Big Bore slugs are being made this weekend, so I should get those shortly ;- ) They are bullets from a 257420 mold,

Things are looking good ;- )

wll2506

Just an heads up about the tank. Before mounting the valve make sure there is no debri roaming around inside it. Got mine from chinka a couple years ago had tiny white flakes in it and about a 2″ long spiral of drill shavings. I should have known better being it was from chinka. A few hundred rounds and the valve started leaking. With only a microscopic flaw to the surface of the valve seat. Then tapping the tank the flakes started falling out and when I used an air hose the drill shaving finally fell out.

I should have known to inspect the tank completely. A year or so before that I received a blister packed electronic device direct from chinka, that already had a hole burnt through the bottom of the device. BTW, I refused to send it back and still have it as proof of chinka quality ;-(

Got my 4500 cf tank in today, will bed liner it black, take out anti un-cocker arm, and give it a fill. I will test with 257420 slugs at 3500 psi and see if I can get the kind of speeds I’m hoping for.

My Accurate Big Bore 257 slugs from RJ Porter are being made this weekend I was just informed ;- ) I’m very excited about this.

I’m pretty impatient and don’t like testing this and testing that. If any of you say you use the same slug as this and can recommend a PSI fill pressure that works for you and gives you 5-7 good 950-1000fps shots … please let me know.

If I don’t hear from anyone I will stay with my original plan of 3500….The reason I’m starting with 3500 is I don’t want to waste time shooting a 3300-3400 tank of 5-7 shots and find out they don’t don’t work. I really don’t want to go a higher PSI for this bullet, but would probably need to for a 257388 slug.

My gun:
257 Condor 27″ barrel from R&L – R&L Shroud.
Doug valve and spring, set to “0” for Starters
Standard stock hammer and weight as it comes from the factory.
257420 73gr bullet, sized to 257.

wll2506

Yes they are. 😉 They will be tested, along with the new LBT 94 gr spitzer.

Knife

quote knifemaker:

Will, I did try the 257388 that Cedric sent for me to try. Excellent!

I didn’t try for Bc with them, sadly. Cedric wanted me to do a BC test, but I had just run out of them. I did do a BC test latter that week with the modded spitzer from NOE. I cut the mold down to throw them at 82 gr, and they came out to 338 BC and are ultra accurate in my gun.

They consistently shoot into 1/2 to 3/4″ groups on my 80 yard range at 1030 fps.

Interestingly today, I was running low on air, and decided to shoot tethered.
I started at 3700 psi, and was getting 1027 average, and typical size groups with it.

When I got down to 3400, the velocity was down to 990 average. At this speed, the groups shrank to half of what they were normally. She was putting 10 rounds into less than 1/4″ consistently. In fact, outside edge to outside edge was far smaller than a dime. Just one nice hole n the target!

Thing is, I had always known that most AG bullets were more accurate at just under 1000, but I guess I sorta forgot, as I had been shooting mostly HP bullets, and wanted very good expansion.

Lesson Learned!!! :winkn:

Knife

The things you learn when least expecting it!

BC test,
82 gr spire point .3386 BC
Noe 80 Gr. RD HP, .2376 BC
Lyman 254420 HP p1 gr, .2191 BC

Thinking of having the NOE Spire Point sent out to Eric for HP service.

Cedric is sending more or the 388’s for testing. The outcome will decide whether it is the NOE SP. or the 388 that goes! 😉

Knife

Knifemaker, that is great info, thank you very much. Looking forward to the rest of your reports ;- ) I’m thinking I start with the 85gr slug at 3700 psi and let her drop to ~3100 for an average of ~950ish … pure speculation on my part, but food for thought.

PS: I assume these are the 257388 Flat point spitzers ?

wll2506

Will, I did try the 257388 that Cedric sent for me to try. Excellent!

I didn’t try for Bc with them, sadly. Cedric wanted me to do a BC test, but I had just run out of them. I did do a BC test latter that week with the modded spitzer from NOE. I cut the mold down to throw them at 82 gr, and they came out to 338 BC and are ultra accurate in my gun.

They consistently shoot into 1/2 to 3/4″ groups on my 80 yard range at 1030 fps.

Interestingly today, I was running low on air, and decided to shoot tethered.
I started at 3700 psi, and was getting 1027 average, and typical size groups with it.

When I got down to 3400, the velocity was down to 990 average. At this speed, the groups shrank to half of what they were normally. She was putting 10 rounds into less than 1/4″ consistently. In fact, outside edge to outside edge was far smaller than a dime. Just one nice hole n the target!

Thing is, I had always known that most AG bullets were more accurate at just under 1000, but I guess I sorta forgot, as I had been shooting mostly HP bullets, and wanted very good expansion.

Lesson Learned!!! :winkn:

Knife

The things you learn when least expecting it!

BC test,
82 gr spire point .3386 BC
Noe 80 Gr. RD HP, .2376 BC
Lyman 254420 HP p1 gr, .2191 BC

Thinking of having the NOE Spire Point sent out to Eric for HP service.

Cedric is sending more or the 388’s for testing. The outcome will decide whether it is the NOE SP. or the 388 that goes! 😉

Knife

No idea of the Spitzer BC yet. Not much chance to shoot lately.

Besides, I wouldn’t care to put my Caldwell chrono down range though I still have old “iffy”, a shooting chrony that I’ve only wounded one time with a 25 cal. Slug while making my 1st and only attempt to do a BC test. My failt, I’m pretty sure I haddn’t closed the breech and the Slug dropped about 8″ from point of aim. I packed up in a hurry and didn’t examine the wound til I got home. :rofl:

It was just slow enough that the slug punched a .25 hole just thru the front plate. I covered it with a bandaide and haven’t tried to do a BC since. :sadn:

quote LURKER #1:

With my “257 NOBLE” Condor here is a string of 5 X 85 gr Spitzer bullets
from about 3400 PSI to about 2950 PSI Power Wheel 2:
1) 973
2) 987
3) 988
4) 984
5) 975
AVG = 981
SD = 6.5
ES = 15

I just punch paper for now and haven’t gotten to shoot it much yet. But I got 10 consecutive X 73 gr. rounds on standard size paper target at 200 yards. No doubt the “257 NOBLE” Condor will do much better when fully sighted in.

Lurker, you shooting the 257388 mold with the flat tip ?

Again, that velocity you getting with that bullet is totally off the the charts .. and that is the 5 shots I’m looking for with a 257420 73 gr bullet …. But with a 85gr bullet you have just reached the Twilight Zone !

Do you happen to know the BC of the 85gr projectile ?

wll2506

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