Shroud Clipping…crap
Have a .25 condor, R&L shroud, Dougs valve and barrel riding hammer. I have cipping issues. Tried tightening the barrel bushing screws evenly, bootom first, then side. Still have issue. No bottom screw in frame pushing shroud. The barrel crown had a burr from the crown Randy had put on it. Polished it off no bug deal. Thought that was the problem. Still doing it. I took .008″ off the baffles and end cap. Still getting bullet streaks and wild groups. I filed 3 or 4 small slits in the bushing to vent it (about toothepick sized slits). But that seems to be on there straight. I have the correct amount of baffles in it, choke still on. Clipping happens with hunter supply and with benj pellets. Any ideas? Doug, could the barrel riding hammer be putting pressure in one direction? It seems to move smooth in the frame though and along the barrel so I dont think thats it.
Next step it to remove barrel with shroud and index in lathe to see what isnt true. I called Randy and he said he would check it out and make it right, but I’d rather not ship the gun off.
Has anyone else seen this before?
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Viewing 13 replies - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)
Setscrews are reversible.
Opening the baffles up is not.
Alignment is key to accuracy with a shroud. Even after you open up the holes, the bullet/pellet is closer on one side and could still be upset by pressure imbalance.
I worry the screw idea may torque the barrel and mess with accuracy. I’m ok opening the baffles up a little more.
As the holes in the baffles at the exit end of the ldc are the furthest ones from the bushing and frame, they would be the ones the most affected by any misalignment. In your case, set screws would help a lot, WITHOUT having to open the holes more. Unless it is a LOT of misalignment.
I would only open her up if all else fails. You will only hear the slightest increase in firing noise if you do have to enlarge the holes however.
Good luck. Most of us have experienced the same problems at one time or another that you are experiencing now. It can be frustrating, but curable. 😉
Knife
Its the last two baffles closest to the muzzle. Current holes are .288. Will open up to .300 or 5/16 and see. For now, I am just trying to see what bullet flies well out of this setup. Ill do it with the shroud offf for now though to make sure its not causing fliers. Once I get a good shooting bullet, ill then put the shroud back on.
I added two set screws to the top of the frame and one more at the bottom to be able to adjust my LDC. In fact, I thought about putting the same on either side of the frame. This would make the alignment of the shroud infinitely adjustable.
KnifeMaker
And for what its worth, I tend to use .266 for 22 cal, and .300 for 25 cal when I drill my baffles.
But then again, I dont have Dougs shop to do my work in either. 😉
If I’m not mistaken his shroud tube is screwed to the custom forward barrel bushing. I thought that’s how RL shrouds went together?
If that’s the case he might have to try a shim of some sort on the tight side of the shroud to help it center up. The tube goes from the end of the frame to the bushing threads. Shim at the end of the frame.
If your lucky the shroud will be clipping at the –edit– top. You could then use a grub screw on the end of the frame to push the shroud upwards slightly.
If I’m mistaken, sorry in advance.
Take a sharpie marker and color the opening in each baffle. Shoot it a few times and then take a look at the baffles and see where the sharpie has been disturbed. This will give you the offending baffle.
Also when installing the shroud look down from the breach end and make sure the shroud baffle holes are in alignment with the barrel.
Often the bore of the barrel is not exactly in the center of the barrel.
What size are the holes right now? It is a alienment issue because my .257 has 150 gr hammer and the holes in the shroud are only .015″ bigger than the bullet. .257 bullet and .272″ hole.
Not sure how that shroud aliens the barrel with the shroud.
How loose are your bushings to frame fit?
You heard the man.
“Open up the baffles and end cap to 5/16″ or better.”
How much will that affect noise? Will I get any funky air flow around it with that sized gap?
Open up the baffles and end cap to 5/16″ or better.
Viewing 13 replies - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)
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I like the set screw idea my self did you try marking with the sharpie and seeing where its hitting? I may of missed your post. I have used this method to see where parts are rubbing on firearms and works well