Q:

Bore Polish/Paste

What is the best brand and grit for polishing a LW barrel?
Do I do different grits, coarse to fine or just one?

My USFT barrel has lost it’s accuracy and before I go and buy another I want to try and polish the bore.
It tends to lead up real quick so I would guess that there is a bit of roughness in there that could use some love. :mrgreen:

Much thanks. 😀

Other Guns

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You never know with WD-40 from batch to batch. I’ve had it pit Mirrow Polished High Speed Jet Turbine Stanless Steel over night. (Crusibles 154-CM Heat Treated and Tempered), And the steel was cleaned with Alch. before spraying down with WD. It only happened once, But That was enough! 👿 No way I would ever trust it again.

It was a very expensive lesson on quality control. Or the lack of it. 😯

KnifeMaker

Here is what I found on the Hoppe’s and Hoppe’s Plus:

Here is what I found on WD40:

I haven’t bought WD40 in over twenty years. Guess i’ll have to get some and try it. 😀

I’m betting it’s the Naphtha that is the key solvent.

I do not know if WD40 is better than Hoppes. Clean it with Hoppes, dry it, then clean with WD40.
It’s worth a try.

Kevin

As far as brushes go, I use a bronze on the TJ pb barrel, and a nylon on the AG barrels.

I’m wondering about the 800 grit for Flitz mentioned above by KQ.. I’ve been using it for well over 30 years. (As it was first used in the cutlery industry). And the company states that it has “NO” grit. Just wondering. In fact, it was one of its big selling points. But is does seem to have a very fine grit. Much finer than the old stand by back in the day. Which was semichrome.

KnifeMaker

I used patches and Hoppe’s #9 solvent. It was pretty clean even with the solvent. I tend to clean every 200 shots to keep the groups small, so it never really gets too dirty.

Is WD40 better than the Hoppes?

I bought a brass brush to try before I go and use the polish. Will probably just get another barrel and see if it works any better.

I have a USFT. The way I was taught to clean it from Tim was use a rod and a patch with WD40 on it. Use a couple of damp patches to get all the crap out and dry patches till clean. It won’t hurt it to put some Krytech on patch after cleaning to relube the bore.

Kevin

For firelapping mostly i use the wheeler engineering kit .
Don’t try 220 grit,its too abrasive.You can go ahead with 320 and 600 but inspect every 5 shots for each one of them.
Also as a final finish i use Flitz and J-B paste.
The first one is around 800grit and the second one 1200grit.
Be carefull,you don’t need an extremely mirror finish.Something like this can cause more fouling and velocity drop due friction.

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