Q:

Condor wo’s Polishing Frame and barrel of condor..

My setup

24″ condor
3 piece TT tophat
TT shroud..

so i been messing around with this and i can’t seem to get it to shoot a good string. done burned through about 3 tins of pellets.. Ive spent many (a shitload) of hours reading various post on here and i just can’t seem to get this thing to shoot a good string. so I’ve been noticing I’m getting like little tiny scrapping of black like plastic coming from the hammer…. so i broke it down and I’m gonna polish it all up. The hammer looks like its been getting chewed up… seems theres a burr hanging down from in front of the cocking knob part of the frame and its been skinning the hammer. Whats everyone using to polish ? and should i polish the frame to a mirror shine or just a light smooth polish? any other tips i may need on this journey would be appreciated… Im going bald here trying to get this to shoot some reasonable numbers/groups.

Airforce Rifles/Pistols

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Viewing 12 replies - 1 through 12 (of 12 total)

I also got tired of tearing down my rig just to de-burr the breech area of the frame to prevent hammer damage. I modified my frame pretty much the same way that Dyotat100 did and have not had any galling problems since. The breech knob also stays in place upon firing since doing this.
As far as polishing goes, I say DO IT! The internals of my frame are mirror polished and I believe it helps to make the delrin bushings on the hammer slide very smoothly without any chatter. polishing the breech end of the barrel also helps to seal and protect the “o” rings inside of the breech. I went as far as to polish my entire barrel although not necc.
To clean AND polish the inside of the frame, I used shotgun cleaning swabs mounted on a 1/4″ extension in my cordless drill with standard automotive “super duty” rubbing compound followed by Flitz.

I agree with the wet or dry in a split dowel. It works for me anyway.

several ways, as some have already applied

i have taken a piece of wire and taped the leading edge of sandpaper, to make a flapper to chuck in a drill

you can take a wooden dowel rod , 3/8” , cut a slot into the end of it and slide a piece of sand paper in the slot , then chuck in to a drill

I thought this post was in the grave LOL

well anyhow…

what i did was i took a dowel and wrapped it with a couple layers of micro fiber rag. then i used flitz metal polish. chucked it in my cordless drill and went to town. I didn’t remove all the black. i just did it till it felt like glass.

I also deburred all the sharp edges inside with some jewelers files.

Good info here. What are you using to get inside the shroud tube to polish?

Thanks

K

Breach “O” ring lube—-Divers silicone grease. But I have been known to use super-lube grease.

Knife

I should have taken pictures of when i did mine back when i first bought the gun, everything that touches anything is mirror polish on my condor,

Ok so i broke out the File and smoothed out that front of the slot. it was rather sharp and was shaving the hammer. After that i went ahead and did some more filing to the rear where breach locks down only on the right side (thats the side I’m gonna use). I did not go a ton but it definitely seats better now… after that i broke out the Flitz polish and shined up the inside of the tube and the outside of the barrel. I half assembled everything and it feels 10x better now. I went ahead and ordered a new hammer from tony with the slap mod. so ill wait on that to try it.

What is everybody using for lube on the breach/orings ?

My now 12″ .177 Condor developed the same burrs.
I can’t find where I posted pictures of the scratched hammer or filing the burrs off but a fine flat file did the trick for me. The burr was worst at the forward position. I figured I may have been slamming the cocking knob forward to hard. But maybe it is just an oversite of quality control. 😆
if you can polish that thing to a mirror finish you’ve got my business ❗

Yep, the slot is too shallow, and to make it worse, it is rounded. This causes the cocking knob shaft to slip out and slam forward when fired. (Why does this sound so sexual? 😯 ). One of the big reasons of both different fps between shots and poi shifts. As it puts different pressure on the thin breach area of the barrel differently every shot.

Dougs (Dyotat) cure works. Simply make the notch deeper and don’t round it any futher. 😉 A good thin file works wonders!!!

Knife

It’s from where the cocking knob hits the frame. You need to take a file and clean it up. The Breech is. 050″ smaller and should never touch the frame.

This is what needs to be done to fix it permanently. AF need to make the slot longer but the never will

post some pics is it the hammer getting chewed up or is it your breech

Viewing 12 replies - 1 through 12 (of 12 total)

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