What groups with a standard Condor at 110 yards
What groups, can be expected of a stock Condor .24 cal 24″ inch barrel at 110 yards?
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Knife
:rofl:
+++++++++++++1 that! :dito:
Doesn’t that kinda go without say??? :whistle: I mean that I certainly can identify with such statement… 😳
Interestingly, when I am shooting in the comfort of my own home off of my dining room table and out the backdoor, my 60yard groups are so much more noticiably tighter than any 75 yrd groups and is many times even tighter than the 50yrd groups I shoot at the local gun range.
This is likely a threefold result of the fact that there is less crosswind, I am in a better comfort zone and obviously nobody else is watching to witness how I am shooting! :6: 😉
OK-OK, Ya got me RC! 😳 😆 I left out the most important part. Only count the Good Groups!!! :8:
Yep, the frame flex is a bugger! Without the Mad-Dog stock, supporting the bottle as Cedric suggest, will help a “LOT”!!! Wit the MadDog Stock, I came to realize that although it stiffened up the frame a bunch, there was still a problem. And I didn’t catch it as quickly as I should have.
With te MadDog stock, it is kinda like shooting the gun as a stock gun with out the bottle supported. The problem is the bottle is free floated in the MadDog Stock. So any pressure to the back of the bottle makes it act like a leaver, and the bottle collar area of the frame is the fulcrum. But there is a simple fix here.
I took a piece of 9-10 weight sole leather and placed it under the very rear of the bottle between it and the rear of the stock. (This is the area just ahead of the butt pad.) And volia! A good solid cheak weld is now possible. Not only does a real cheak weld not disturb the bottle and hence the frame to barrel alignment, it now more solidly locks the rifle down on the bench. A Win-Win!
I talked to Doug at Maddog about my Ideas of adding a threaded rod and a rubber pad for bench shootingthat extends down from the butt of the stock to the bench. I see that he has now added it to his offerings.
My next suggestions will be an adjustable threaded rod or screw with a rubber pad that threads up thru the stock and contacts the aft end od the bottle to make it ridgid in the stock.
A nice addition would be a inverted “U” shaped of stiff plastic, kidex, or alu. that wraps arond the bottle without touching it. And bolts to the stock on both sides. This would be free floating and fully adjustable. Thinking here of the vertical adjusting cheak pieces on many sniper rifles here. Same thing, just now just missing the bottle. Having basically a tunnel effect with the bottle inside. Not touching the cheak piece. You could use all the cheak weld you want, without effecting the frame at all. Much less the bottle to frame alignment. Cheek weld would not torque the bottle left, right, or down.
Knife
Thanks for the input guys, I’ll be happy, if I get something in the 4 inch range at 110 yards.
Well, yes and no. It varies by shooter and gun.
When my condor was at 80 FPE in 250-251 caliber, i could print 1.5″ groups with it. Especially with Jerry’s slugs. And occasionally get down to 1″. But like RC said, if you see 2″+- groups then don’t get discouraged.
The key with the AF guns is too NOT APPLY UNEVEN and DOWNWARD PRESSURE on your tank and to not BEARHUG the gun. The gun has FRAME FLEX and too much pressure from your face/cheek will cause the groups to shift. Keep the hold LIGHT and CONSISTENT.
When i shoot my gun off my truck bed, i have a system down that keeps me and the gun pretty consistent. The front and the rear (bottle) are supported.
It takes some practice and consistency to shoot the unmodified AF gun consistently.
I respect Mike and love him dearly, but I think he is a little off base here, or at the very least a little unrealistic for us mere mortals that as my dad used to say, “shit between shoe leather.”
You have to consider that this group size advice comes from Knifemaker, and he is perhaps one of the best at shooting groups, or at least one of the best I have seen with an air gun and has equipment that most do not have, like a scope that costs as much or more than your Condor and a Maddog stock. And even Mike, Knifemaker, went to shooting his own finely cast and sorted solid bullets and a TJ barrel when Dyotat overhauled his rifle, fitting it with a Dyotat valve and hammer ect.
With mere mortals it is a little different at 100 or 110 yards.
So do not be discouraged if your get 2 or 3 inch groups, if you do, you doing fine.
All the time I had my Condor shooting pellets, and this is with one 22 and two 25 barrels, the best I ever got benched at 100 yards was 5 shots in .75, sure I made shots on game a lot further, but 5 consecutive shots only went into .75 once at 100 yards.
Now a lot of shooters will tell you they shoot sub MOA groups at 100 yards all the time, but talk is cheap and writing on the internet anonymously is much cheaper, well maybe not, computers and internet coverage cost a lot.
Most Condor shooters if they get a few 5 shot groups under 1 inch, and most of us have, they say their rifle will do it all day long, that is bullshit. Wind and pellet inconsistencies and frame flex on un Maddog stocked rifles will keep most of us away from that goal if were talking consistently doing it.
Also the AF design has built in problems, most of which Knife has alleviated from his rifle, like trigger and flexing that he has solved by being one of the best polishers in the knife industry and a trigger sear, if he still has it and a Maddog stock what takes away flex.
So If you shoot a 1 inch group out of a few 100’s of groups over the next 6 months, don’t despair.
Thx for the info Knife.
Out of the box, good scope, good pellets, weighed and sorted, 1-1/2″-2 1/2″. Well tuned, and use to the gun, in good air, take that down to 1 1/2 or 1″ at the range listed.
Some times better. 😉 :8:
Knife
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😳 Yep! sounds abut right!!! :8:
Knife