Q:

Cricket Hammer Degaser Tool Video

I have seen this to often—>a strip Allen head on the bleed screw and the ball check leaking so If it didn’t leak I don’t touch, so I used this tool.

Kalibrgun

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Ernest tool done in egypt 🙂

I made a very simple “degaser extension” for the WWAG HST out of an aluminum rod. No fancy machine work, I just dabble with my hand tools. It works, though. 😎

The rod fits inside the hammer on one end and I’ve drilled a hole for the spring guide from the HST on the other end. It extends my HST 21 mm.

I thought a chrony is a must for all serious air gunners 🙂 I have a F1 Chrony that I don’t use much and I also have a Combro. I’ve been using the Combro a lot lately to set the FPS on the gun. The cool thing about the Combro is that I can use it in my house without special LEDs like the regular chrony. Just attach it to the gun and shoot away.

quote tbear:

as for getting back to the desired FPS…that may work, but you’re going to need a chrony for sure.

I think that what may be happening is they are stripping the threads trying to tighten the factory setup .

If I was to buy a new cricket. First thing I would do is remove that screw and the ball. And replace with a nylon tipped screw. Then u don’t have to worry.

quote SECoda:

Not sure the nylon tip completely fixes the issue. The steel set screw still tends to strip out the alloy threads – maybe if they were titanium. 😀 The alternative requires a chrony.

quote tbear:

I know you’re the Guru, but I have concerns about your degaser tool. The thing is that once someone tune an air rifle to perfection (probably by you), you probably don’t want to mess with it ever again. However, I do realize that degasing sometimes is necessary (to replace O-rings, adjust regulators, etc). However, degasing your way require the removal of the HSTA, stock or otherwise. That negates the tune, unless you can somehow go back to that exact same spot. Yes there is problem with that little bleed screw leaking air. I had that exact same problem, but was solved by the nylon-tipped set screw. It only cost $1 each…Your thoughts?

me and dman? completely swear by it. It’s not going to strip out anything, since you don’t have to apply a lot of pressure. Once it’s “sealed”, a little turn CCW let airs out, a little turn CW completely shuts it off. I guess you have to try it for yourself. But for myself, I’m a true believer. Thanks to dman for telling me about it.

as for getting back to the desired FPS…that may work, but you’re going to need a chrony for sure.

Not sure the nylon tip completely fixes the issue. The steel set screw still tends to strip out the alloy threads – maybe if they were titanium. 😀 The alternative requires a chrony.

quote tbear:

I know you’re the Guru, but I have concerns about your degaser tool. The thing is that once someone tune an air rifle to perfection (probably by you), you probably don’t want to mess with it ever again. However, I do realize that degasing sometimes is necessary (to replace O-rings, adjust regulators, etc). However, degasing your way require the removal of the HSTA, stock or otherwise. That negates the tune, unless you can somehow go back to that exact same spot. Yes there is problem with that little bleed screw leaking air. I had that exact same problem, but was solved by the nylon-tipped set screw. It only cost $1 each…Your thoughts?

I like the thought of the tool,

Id just rather not mess with the HST adjustment if i don’t have to.

When i messed my bleed screw up and i had to dump the tank i just removed the action and pressed the valve against a block of wood. and it dumped the air out quick.

If you’re not changing the regulator settings, I don’t see why you can’t get back to the fps that Ernest had set. Just have to adjust the HST slowly once you get near the fps that you want. I purchased the long HSTA(adjust with your fingers) from Ernest and it was easy to set the fps to whatever I want. I also got the degasser tool but haven’t used it yet.

I know you’re the Guru, but I have concerns about your degaser tool. The thing is that once someone tune an air rifle to perfection (probably by you), you probably don’t want to mess with it ever again. However, I do realize that degasing sometimes is necessary (to replace O-rings, adjust regulators, etc). However, degasing your way require the removal of the HSTA, stock or otherwise. That negates the tune, unless you can somehow go back to that exact same spot. Yes there is problem with that little bleed screw leaking air. I had that exact same problem, but was solved by the nylon-tipped set screw. It only cost $1 each…Your thoughts?

The degaser just bleed the air tube only. made 4 and that’s it. Later will have a kit for the HSTA that come with a brass shinny pipe that flip over the spring guide to degas the air tube.

quote sniperlabyo:

I’ll post the OD of the rod later!

need the difference between the HSTA & the degasser

I’ll post the OD of the rod later!

quote sniperlabyo:

quote tbear:

For those that already purchased the HST adjuster with the spring guide, could we just not remove the hammer spring, insert some type of wooden dowel and just tighten the HST?

yes, if you have a metal HSTA you can use any rod cut to size but the hammer spring has to be removed.

Thanks for the info Ernest. But to avoid trial & error and such, what would be the correct dimension for the rod, assuming I have the WWAG HSTA?

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