Condor – Barrel Bushing Positioning Idea
Request for comment…..
As you know, the bushings holding barrel are fixed to frame at two locations pointed by RED arrows in Figure 2. On a 24″ barre, that creates a overhang of about 12″ (RED line in Figure 2). The front cap is decorative, does not provide any support and a gap exists between cap & barrel.
Now try this: As shown in Figure 1, apply a little force on muzzle end of barrel, sensing barrel movement at end-cap barrel junction (place a finger). The barrel wiggles & this does not require too much effort.
Also, the piece of frame from last bushing to end cap is pretty much decorative & adds no structural support (in GREEN in Figure 1).
If I were to put on a moderately heavy, there is place for barrel to wiggle & overhang is about 12″ + suppressor length.
BIG IDEA: (has anyone already tried this?)
As shown in Figure 2 (marked in BLUE arrow), the bushing closer to end-cap can be moved to end-cap position itself. A hole needs to drilled & threaded (M5-.8), but that is all. This will reduce overhang to about 6″ & greatly reduce wiggle.
Anyone thinks this is worth an attempt ? Or should I stop worrying that a 3lbs suppressor can cause barrel to wiggle.
Figure 1:
Figure 2:
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Thanks for all replies. I feel better already that its not an entirely dumb idea.
Dayotat100: 1.2″ at 200yds is commendable achievement!! When u install aluminum endcap, do you take to second bushing out ? Keeping 3points of support in straight line is way difficult than keeping two & especially because of gap that exists with stock bushings. But no doubt that teeter-totter will be reduced by a tight fitting end cap.
BTW, whats the barrel on blue condor ?
I use 90d o rings.
The O ring would tighten the fit but absorb vibration as well. Might try some different Durometer O rings. See what that does to open or close up groups at longer ranges.
That sounds like a super clean setup. It’s amazing how many uses we can find for “o” rings! :biggrinn:
It’s simple and I do it on any gun that doesn’t have a shroud.
I make a end cap that fits the frame perfect out of aluminum. Then I bore it .020″-.030″ bigger then the barrel. Then I cut a groove for a .103″ o ring and make it fit the barrel tight.
This gun is shooting 1.2″ at 200 yds according to the owner.
That sounds like a pretty good idea. By moving the two support bushings further apart ( only actually moving one but increasing the distance between the two) , you would be limiting the “teeter totter” effect. Another idea (to avoid modifying the frame) would be to fabricate some type of sleeve to take up the “slop” between the barrel and the hole in the end cap.
Wildfire
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I run 2 large bushings and a end cap. Here is a pic when I first started.
It is a 30″ .257. He was shooting 110 gr NOE slugs tethered at 3200 psi.
Sometimes I make one piece bushing also. I still support the barrel at the end of the frame.
On my .257 my shroud does the same thing and has a support at the end of the barrel.