Side cocking breech… or?
Need a bit of help from someone, please. I have a Tagdagger air archer kit and with the heavy hammer spring, this thing is a bitch to cock. To the point where it’s galling up a bit while cocking. Thinking the single point cocking knob just isnt going to cut it. Anyone out there who can put a side cocking bolt on it to make things easier? I’ve got the tools, but not the know how do do such. I tried once and effed up a breech so would prefer someone else give this a go. Not sure exactly ‘what’ the cocking knob would look like, but can discuss options with whoever might be able to help me out.
hit me up here or on email… robertsrc/at/charter/dot/net
thanks!
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Lol. Pm me your cell number. I got some pics to send
yep… I’ve been meaning to go in and smooth that out a bit, but havent yet.
Did you get a pass through at least? haha
I noticed today while trying to shoot my brother with it that the frame is slightly digging into the top of the breech. But that didn’t stop me from shooting at him.
yep…. needs to move a bit of air for sure… I just have to learn to cock it a bit better. Tagdagger hit me up on an easier way, but it’s near impossible with the attached quiver on it. Regardless, it’s only a minor inconvenience.
I did notice shooting the other day that the sear dont want to engage at times. May need a little heavier trigger spring to help with that…
Reason for the spring being so heavy is to hold that valve open as long as possible. Those blots are heavy. Close to 300grn. Not only does it need the air to fill the barrel but it has to fill the arrow also.
I ‘may’ be able to, but really dont want to bugger it up.
Dont have a spring in between… thinking that would be about ideal. If I can get around 300fps out of this with the bolts, I’m good. Right now running a little hot.
Right now, I’m just not sure what to do with it. Dont know exactly how I would attach something to side cock it… nor am I sure if a brass or steel breech would be a bit stronger… or if I just need to use a lighter hammer spring. Sounding like a bit lighter hammer spring may be the safest way to go.
Can you slot your frame and make it a side cocker?
Do you have a spring in between stock and what you are using?
hmm… ok… will revisit a bit.. maybe a steel or brass breech may help.
Yes but it is based in a stock valve. The only reason to need a stiffer spring is when the size of the hole the seal is covering gets larger.
Side cocker works great when sloting the frame. I would think that trying to put a side cooking handle on the breech where it is at will make it worse. The further away from the breech the more it’s going to want to try and bind from leverage.
not a stock valve. The kit from Tagdagger came with a new valve spring as well. It will cock… just would be easier as a side cocker or with a bolt with two screws in the breech.
Right now, getting around 360fps with bolts on it on low power. Tried one one mid power and hit over 400fps, but dont need that much on it.
Pretty well hobbled together from parts and such and the valve was out of a CO2 adapter, with a new valve spring retainer and spring.
Don’t understand why the spring is so stiff for a stock based valve. I use a 13 lb spring for the
.257 and .308. It is hard to cook but not that hard.
I was going to say it’s because you had aluminum breech.
No sir… sure dont. Stock breech. I had an aluminum breech at one point, but it galled to the point of not usable and so got rid of it.
This one is just so stiff in the spring that the cocking knob just dont seem to be strong enough with a single point in the breech to cock it without turning it funky.
Do you have aluminum breech?
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I did notice shooting the other day that the sear dont want to engage at times. May need a little heavier trigger spring to help with that…
If you move the spring thats under the hammer release forward a bit that will help with trigger reset. While your in there it would also be a good time to remove the safety if its the old style, since they are anything but…. also a 3.5” hammer spring like Doug uses on his big bore builds would still be sufficient.