Q:

Valve removal?

Can anyone advise me on valve assembly remova. Is there a technique or nack to it?
Many thanks,
Joe

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quote LURKER #1:

Valve removal ❓ No one ever had a valve problem before :rofl::
It is all explained in this forum probably several times with so many search hits that its hard to tell where to begin without doing a lot of reading.

I get lost in other topics every time I start a search but I will at least get you all started.

Only the valve stem can be removed without removing all the air pressure first.
A tank safety cap is needed to remove the air pressure unless it has already leaked out. In that case test for no remaining pressure by manually pushing the valve stem into the tank to where the top hat portion contacts the brass valve guide. The stem should be spring loaded to return back to its resting position. If there is air pressure you probably won’t be able to manuall depress the stem to where air is released. Thus you should use a valve safety cap with a dime or penny seated squarely in it to very slowly screw it in just until a slight hiss is heard. Give it time to exhaust slowly so as not to cause stress on the tank walls.

Then the OEM valve stem should be removed to be replaced by a superior Talon Tunes Quick Change valve stem.

Depending on what job you are doing to the valve, there are two further possible steps that each requires a different specialized tool. Good ones are available at times or may be rigged with a few other tools.

So next we could remove the brass valve stem guide or just skip that step and go for removal of the valve body from the tank.

If the valve stem wasn’t being spring loaded, we might as well go to removing the valve body from the tank. Chances are there are 2 or 3 loose parts in there at this point. Now you need a valve removal tool because AF used some kind of thread sealer on the valve body. Even with the valve removal tool a heat source is desirable to gently heat the neck of the tank. Oh, another necessity is a vice and padding to hold the tank. Oh, have NEW o-rings on hand or you may be going through the removal process again in a couple of days

This is a lot of info to drag out of my leather like brain so if you can take it from here or search by additional keywords, I’ll take a nap.

thank you very much this is perfect! And yes your right I initially did a search and turned up a load of results about a valve removal tool. Thanks again bud

Valve removal ❓ No one ever had a valve problem before :rofl::
It is all explained in this forum probably several times with so many search hits that its hard to tell where to begin without doing a lot of reading.

I get lost in other topics every time I start a search but I will at least get you all started.

Only the valve stem can be removed without removing all the air pressure first.
A tank safety cap is needed to remove the air pressure unless it has already leaked out. In that case test for no remaining pressure by manually pushing the valve stem into the tank to where the top hat portion contacts the brass valve guide. The stem should be spring loaded to return back to its resting position. If there is air pressure you probably won’t be able to manuall depress the stem to where air is released. Thus you should use a valve safety cap with a dime or penny seated squarely in it to very slowly screw it in just until a slight hiss is heard. Give it time to exhaust slowly so as not to cause stress on the tank walls.

Then the OEM valve stem should be removed to be replaced by a superior Talon Tunes Quick Change valve stem.

Depending on what job you are doing to the valve, there are two further possible steps that each requires a different specialized tool. Good ones are available at times or may be rigged with a few other tools.

So next we could remove the brass valve stem guide or just skip that step and go for removal of the valve body from the tank.

If the valve stem wasn’t being spring loaded, we might as well go to removing the valve body from the tank. Chances are there are 2 or 3 loose parts in there at this point. Now you need a valve removal tool because AF used some kind of thread sealer on the valve body. Even with the valve removal tool a heat source is desirable to gently heat the neck of the tank. Oh, another necessity is a vice and padding to hold the tank. Oh, have NEW o-rings on hand or you may be going through the removal process again in a couple of days

This is a lot of info to drag out of my leather like brain so if you can take it from here or search by additional keywords, I’ll take a nap.

I have been searching for the same thing for a long time. I wish someone would post a youtube on this process. it would be very helpful

Viewing 3 replies - 1 through 3 (of 3 total)

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