Most Consistent Method? O RIng, Top Hat Adjust, etc?
Iv’e read both good and bad on the o-ring mods. Some reviews have claimed it is horribly inconsistent, while others rave about the effectiveness of them. I also would like to learn more about what to expect with adjusting the top hat in or out by itself, or combined with the o-ring?
I’m looking for a simple, inexpensive and effective way to save some air, dampen the noise some, and get a few more god shots out of my Condor! I am not convinced I need a TTQCTH just yet. Any advice would be most appreciated!
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GKU gave the specs on the size O-ring I need. How about for the washer? I have a Home Depot trip planned today, was going to check and see if they have what I’m looking for!
I say it all the time. You want no gap between the breech and the top hat. Put a nylon spacer if you want a smaller gap. Like said above you can sand it to make it smaller. Or if you have a lathe you can cut them to what ever size you want. Everyone of my guns has a spacer to take up unwanted space. Even both of my regulated gun do to eliminate wasting air and excessive noise from from it.
Nobody would dare say that o-rings are bad :angrymob:
Afterall they are a high priced luxury item that only a few can afford. :whistle:
Guys, thanks so much for the informative responses.
Whats the best place to locate these washers and o-rings?
Also, can any of you address this issue? I read somewhere on a forum that the o-rings and washers lead to considerable inconsistencies. The argument claimed that the “squishy” or giving nature of the pieces were inconsistent in nature and should be avoided period.
The fact that so many guys use them suggests otherwise. What are your thoughts there??
This setup is on my Talon SS 22 cal.
It send JSB 16g @ 700 fps.
Which I fill to 2400psi 70 shot down to 2100psi.
On my Condor SS 25 cal it didn’t need the nylon spacer just the O-ring.
For me IMO the important thing is that the cocking knob needs to be into the slot without any play.
If not the front of the breech will have a gap between it and the top hat.
When fired it will have a double slap, first one hammer hitting the back of the breech, second the front of the breech hitting the top hat.
Also another note.
On the cocking knob there is a small barrel sleeve.
I lubed it with a little Moly grease and when installing it back I left it loose such that it can rolled when it when into the cocking slot.
~ GKU
That’s really interesting GKU. I had considered a nylon washer and rubber Oring combo, but thought it would be too much and not leave enough tophat penetration into valve. But presumably you are getting good results? Much power loss? :fishinghole:
So far I still like the O-ring behind the top hat but with a nylon spacer to take up any slack if needed.
I tried using nylon washers only but it made the power wheel adjuster useless.
The crony also produced a downward shot string with a larger ES, about double compared to with an O-ring.
So this is how I did mines on my Talon 22 SS.
I adjusted the top hat so it makes contact to the breech.
Check to see when I cock the gun and closed the breech it made a slight click into the knob slot.
Placed a 1/4” ID x 3/8”OD x 1/16″ thick O-ring behind the top hat.
Power wheel between 3 – 5 setting.
Crony to see velocity, it should be high.
Add on a nylon washer spacer between the O-ring and top hat.
Adjust the thickness of the nylon washer until you reach the desired speed.
Either add a thicker one to decrease the speed or sand it down to increase the speed.
Use the power wheel to fine tune.
I blue locktite the 2 grub screws, once I found the speed I wanted I blue locktite the top hat treads also.
But in the future if I need to remove it from the bottle to fine tune it.
I loosen the 2 grub screws, insert a hex key into the port hole and turn the top hat.
~ GKU
Careful not to over tighten those tiny POINTED grub screws. They easily dent the valve stem tube :angrymob:
After you get your final adjustment and before taking a lot of shots, put a tiny bit of blue locktite Only on the threads of one grub screw at a time while the other holds the adjustment. Then let them harden the recommended time.
I think WOK suggested inserting a ?mm drill bit shank to prevent denting the stem excessively. I used a drill bit and pushed it in to far and it got stuck :butkick:
That was how I first discovered the valve stem is removable. Holly TERROR struck me as I expected 3000 PSI to take my face off or send my tank careening around the room. After the longest moment on record I remembered to breath 😳
Good luck and may the force be with you :darth-vader:
At best the o-ring (or washer) is ‘fine tuning’ – the first thing is to get your tophat adjusted well – this is “automatic” with the TTQCTH, but you should be able to get there with the factory hat. I’d start with maybe 0.070″ gap and work out (increasing the gap) until you stop getting a velocity increase. Then just hope it doesn’t get loose.
GsT
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.250″ ID. I think they are 1/16″ thick. If you need it thinner you can sand it on a piece of sand paper on a flat surface to make it thinner.