Stripped screw!!!! Please help.
Have y’ll seen the video on Youtube on EDgun’s channel entitled: Everything that you ever need to know about the Edgun Matador”? If so, remember when he is removing the three hex head screws that hold the valve/regulator assembly in? He has to really put some muscle into removing them and then comments: “I am going to have to tell them (employees, I assume) not to torque these screws so much.” ……..well…..they either just flat refused to comply with Ed’s request or was just not listening. I got two of them out, after much straining. But the third one is now officially so buggered up that a T27 Torx will barely grab it. Tonight, I will try JB Welding a L-shaped hex wrench to the screw. That is all I can think of. I am afraid of using an extractor as I don’t want to bugger up the aluminum threads of the valve body. I’m sorry guys, I admit that I am past frustrated. I mean….these are screws that must come out for general service…..such as changing an oring, setting the reg, or whatever. I could put the other two screws in WITH ANTI-SEIZE and just use the gun. But I could never, in good conscience, sell this EDgun to anyone, knowing that one of it’s main screws is buggered (the hex part is buggered).
I even managed to tap a T27 Torx bit into the screw head but the screw is so freakin tight that it will not come out. I cannot apply heat because of the Orings and the nylon valve stem (or whatever the white material is).
I will probably be flamed for asking ED this but why was a liberal amount of anti-seize not used on these screws? Steel screws in aluminium is already a galling situation. If I get a leak now, I am royally screwed. Not very happy with my EDgun right now. My weekend project was going to be removing the valve body/regulator and running a long dowel with a towel to dry the airtube in case I introduced water into the airtube by using my hand-pump.
Is it possible to remove this screw by using a screw extractor from Lowes or Ace Hardware? Or will I need to buy an entire Airtube/valve assembly…….in which case……I’ll just part the EDgun out since it has a awesome looking stock. and the barrel/shroud assembly is in great shape.
Sorry for ranting. But this seems unacceptable.
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Success!!! I drilled an 1/8th inch hole in the center of the screw, all the way to the bottom. The drill bit was marked to show the exact length of the screw. I then tapped a T-30 (I had already stripped a T-25, then a T-27) into the hex head screw……the one that I had buggered with my ‘shit’ wrench. In all fairness, I used the same Allen wrench set on all other PCP’s that I have owned with absolutely no problems. My wrench is still flat and unbuggered. Anyway, I tapped the Torx-30 head into the screw head and placed a 1/4 inch socket wrench over it. The hole that I drilled relieved some stress and the screw came out with relative ease.
I’ll either get me a set of MIP Hex Drivers…..or continue to use my old faithfuls…..but I will clean and coat the threads with a good anti-seize.
I apologize if my first post offended any EDgun enthusiast. Heck….I’m an EDgun enthusiast. I love my Matador R3M 25 cal. Thankfully, I didn’t cause any cosmetic damage and I have a OEM screw coming from another EDgun enthusiast and friend. He (MM) is also the one who gave me the idea of drilling through the screw to relieve stress. Stress on the metal……..AND……stress on me.
Equally, I appreciate the replies. I regret sounding so…….pissed. I was lashing out, I guess. But hey, even Ed admitted that those three (or six if you remove the gauge) screws where over torqued in his vid. And I agree.
NOTE for anyone who attempts what I did to remove this screw. The 1/8th inch hole must be centered and the bit held straight as it bores down through the center of the screw. I just looked at the screw. There is a dimple in the bottom end of it where the bit almost broke through. I WOULD NOT ADVISE DOING IT THIS WAY. One would do well to follow the advise of the seasoned veterans of this forum. I was desperate and foolish and took on a daring attitude. BUT……it did work. So now, I can carry on with my weekend project. Thanks again for the replies, guys.
By the way, that was a great video review of the 30 cal Matador KS. Subscribed. Merry Christmas forum members.
First off you used a shit wrench on that bolt if you don’t own MIP hex drivers.
These will not slip
Secondly Donny is right.
Put your panties back on, its not as bad as it looks. Go get Grabit from your hardware store and it’ll come right out. Control the speed so that it is slow, if I remember correctly, you drill using the reverse gear on the drill. You can get a pack of Grabit, or find the one that comes close to that size. The thing works great.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_299377-41877-8501P_0__?productId=3073145
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I first learned about MIP drivers from a friend who is way into RC cars and helicopters. The MIP drivers can take a tremendous amount of torque and not slip. You will not go back to regular hex screws.
PS I like passionate post. It makes the forum more interesting. No offense taken.