Gun not cocking
Hey guys, I haven’t been able to shoot much lately so decided to take a few shots this morning but when I go to cock the gun, it sounds like it doesn’t want to engage. Any ideas? I’ve never taken this gun apart other than changing to the Dman blue light special gun barrel. I was able to shoot it fine a few weeks back.
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:hoot:
Dear Guyser,
You are evil!
Hoot:
PS: Whats with the pictures of the paintball gun????
Hoot how come you only post when you see the word COCK-ing? I saw Donny’s post about COCK-ing and I thought “HOOT will be by soon to answer any and all questions about COCK-ing”.
~ Greg
:hoot:
Dear STD…
??????
Kind regards,
Hoot:
~ Greg
I am glad that the problem is solved. Whenever you move the barrel clamps, it is good to check the first stage lever making sure it is lying flat against the trigger box and also test the trigger, making sure it moves freely with little resistance before tighten the clamps. I made a note to remind myself doing this, but I keep forgetting…
Endo
Endo to the rescue! You are correct my friend, my clamps were moved and my first stage lever was not flush against the bottom of the trigger box. In my case, the clamps were too far in front so I moved them towards the receiver until the lever was flushed and now it cocks fine. Thanks for the inputs Mughram and Endo!
It is easy to fix. Unscrew the barrel and air tube clamps, so the clamps are free to slide. Then move the clamp up a little (away from the receiver), and make sure the first stage lever is flat (flush against the bottom of the trigger box). Your first stage lever in the trigger box is not position right, which prevents the lower sear to pull (or fall) back for engagement.
I think you may have unintentionally moved the clamps while installing the barrel, which change the distance of the trigger linkage and prevents the lower sear to fall back.
Enjoy the shorty and how’s listone barrel shoots?
Regards,
Endo
Donny,
It is easy to fix. Unscrew the barrel and air tube clamps, so the clamps are free to slide. Then move the clamp up a little (away from the receiver), and make sure the first stage lever is flat (flush against the bottom of the trigger box). Your first stage lever in the trigger box is not position right, which prevents the lower sear to pull (or fall) back for engagement.
I think you may have unintentionally moved the clamps while installing the barrel, which change the distance of the trigger linkage and prevents the lower sear to fall back.
Enjoy the shorty and how’s listone barrel shoots?
Regards,
Endo
Thanks Mughram, I tried it but didn’t work either. I made another video with the plate off.
This gun has been with me all the time, and I really enjoy her performance.
Although the Matador comes along, for sentimental reason, she always sits in the back seat.
Recently, the Mutant was sick. I couldn’t get the hammer to re-engage after shot. This happened after every several (5-6) shots. Then it got more severe in every 2-3 shots, and became mostly every shot. I opened the trigger-box plate and found the sears were engaged (without cocking), which prevented the hammer engagement. Although this does not pose any danger, it was annoying because I have to pull the trigger to disengage the sears first then cock the lever to engage the sears and the hammer for next shot.
When the mutant was healthy, in the process of cocking, the sears are engaged (see green circle in Picture 1), and you can see that the hammer (on the top) engages with the upper sear at the end of cocking (red circle in Picture 1). The “hammer anchor” (see red circle in Picture 1) catches the hammer (under hammer spring tension) and the gun is ready to fire. When you pull the trigger, the sears are disengaged and at the same time the upper sear is pushed downward (by a spring in the sear-tensioner screw and the gravity) to release the hammer. The hammer hits the valve stem to open the valve for the regulated air to rush out. This is what it is supposed to be.
When the issue showed up, I opened the panel on the trigger box and this is what you will see (Picture 2). The sears are already engaged (green circle in Picture 2). When you pull the lever trying to cock (i.e., engaging the hammer), the lever would not go all the way out because the “hammer anchor” (red circle in Picture 2) on the upper sear prevents (or blocks) the hammer moving outward (see red and white circles in Picture 2). In other words, you are not able to cock the gun to engage the hammer once the sears were engaged. So, the sears are engaged “automatically” right after the shot (or during the shot), and this prevents the upper sear to catch the hammer. To resolve this, I have to pull the trigger to release the sear, this will allow me to cock the gun again (to engage both sears and hammer). I found no problem at all with dry firing, but the problem occurs after shooting with pellets. This happened every 2-3 shots and then almost right after every shot lately.
I can reproduce the situation by pushing downward on the “sear-hammer linkage lever” (see green arrow in Picture 3). This will lift up the upper sear. The lower sear will move leftward by a spring in the screw, which controls 2nd stage tension (see Picture 1). These movements engage the sears. Another way to engage the sear is to push upward (see red arrow in Picture 3) that little piece of “insert” (mark with * in Pictures 1, 2, and 3) between upper and lower sears.
I have no idea how could this “automatic sear-engagement” happen during the shot or right after the shot.
Solution: Dman asked Dmitriy (manufacturer) what to do to solve the issue. He said: turn the screw (2nd stage travel screw) out (CCW) by one turn (see Picture 1).
I turned the screw out by ½ trun first, and it indeed reduced the symptom (1 failure in ~30 rounds). Then I turned that screw out another ¼ turn and also increased (turn-in) the “sear tensioner” screw by ¼ turn to increase the tension of upper sears to let it “sit” more firmly on that little insert. No cocking failure >30 rounds. I never thought that this little insert could have such significant impact on the sear and hammer engagement. Giving a little more room to that little guy seems to be important for the action of cocking, in addition to the increase of 2nd stage travel.
So, don’t panic, if your Mutant misbehaves all of a sudden like this. This is a simple fix. It only takes you a few seconds to adjust the screw. Put Vitra-tite on those screws might be a good idea.
I’ve been trying to figure out how could this auto sear-engagement happen….Any explanation?
Anyway, thank you D&D (Dman and Dmitriy) for the help.
Regards,
Endo
Picture 1:
Picture 2
Picture 3
i think its easy fix .. check this out 🙂
http://www.talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=32414&start=80
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Hoot: the truth is always EVIL
Leave it to Donny to create a crisis followed up with Video’s and fixes. You are such an attention whore Du.