Q:

Ambidextrous Cocking, Lower Butt Plate, & Palm Rest Mods

I am going to add another u-plate and cocking handle so I can cock my Vulcan with either hand. The idea is to put the 2nd u-plate upside down and possible enlarge its slot. One handle will operate normally, the opposite side handle will lock up instead of down. Then, I would have the best of both worlds for supported and unsupported shooting.

Unfortunately, Evgeny may not be able to source the spare parts. If that isn’t possible, I’m looking at acquiring or making my own cocking knob and having a u-plate machined.

I recall someone last year showing off alternative knobs for their Vulcan. What was the source for those knobs?

[EDIT] added butt plate & palm rest mods to thread.

Airgun Technology

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How hard is it to get used to locking the handle up instead of down?

While shooting today, I was using mostly my “up” handle. Then, I changed holds and needed to cock with the regular handle on the other side. For a second, I had trouble locking it forward. I was pushing it up instead of down. Had to laugh at myself, but that answers the question. It’s really easy to get used to locking up.

It was also really great being able to switch cocking hand depending on my hold & support.

Bro, really, really appreciate you going to the trouble of documenting all of this. Gonna save me a TON of effort. Kuddo! :8: :8:

While I’m at it, decided to add another thing I’ve wanted – a palm rest. My Vulcan’s center of gravity and my arm length puts my palm at the trigger guard for off hand shooting. It’s simply not a comfortable place for my palm under the trigger guard. More forward and I’m no longer “bone” supported. Solution is a palm rest.

Some heating, bending and reshaping of aluminum created a comfortable place for my supporting palm. I kept it short enough that I can still use the fore stock. Friction tape between the palm rest and the stock prevents rotation. A rubber pad between the trigger guard and palm rest avoids marring.

Still deciding whether to make it black. Live, it actually looks decent in aluminum. Then again, this is a working gun, not a show piece.

Now, I can lock in my shoulder contact and supporting palm.

That does look like it could be adapted. There isn’t any reason to continue putting up with a too short butt pad.

I have asked Tony to check if a new style stock can be obtained. That would be another solution, but we won’t know for some time whether that is permitted.

Nice job Guy!

Was wondering if the Wokbutt designed for the AF guns could be mounted on the Vulcan…after this mod I’d say yes it could.

The newest Vulcans correct another long standing niggle I have with my Vulcan — too short a butt height. The newest Vulcan bullpup & tactic stocks have a much taller butt to allow better should engagement. I typically have only the bottom inch or so of butt pad engaging my shoulder and the gun wanting to cant when my should was most comfortable. Fixed both issues by lowering the butt pad and allowing canting.

The original butt pad had to be removed. With a thin, sharp knife, I removed the butt pad neatly in one piece.

The butt pad was used to help laying out the new butt plate pieces. One piece will be the base plate. The other, longer piece will pivot on the base plate. I wanted to minimize drilling into the wood stock. So, the mounting bolts between the two plates were trimmed to avoid profusion beyond the base plate into the stock. This isn’t strong enough construction for a powder burner, nor for going out in the woods, but for my usage, it is stiff enough.

Base plate mounted on wood stock via two wood screws. The screws were of course carefully pilot drilled and waxed before screwing into position. Might go back and reinforce the wood with some “superglue” in the screw holes.

Added the long plate. The plate swivels on the lower bolt and degree of cant is secured by the upper bolt

The original butt pad was attached to the bottom end of the long plate. I could have curved the plate, but the straight pad already
fits me nicely. Now, I have much better shoulder engagement and the gun naturally sits vertical when the butt pad is in the “pocket.”

Tried it out last night and took just a few cycles to get used to locking up instead of down. Nice, quiet, and smooth action because the new plate isn’t ever in contact. All the real contact is done by the stock plate and I have that plate’s edges polished smooth.

The putty on the side wheel is to keep in from ringing. Without the putting, it rings like a bell when tapped. There are a couple other noisy pieces that I have also treated with some putty during my work getting the gun nice and quiet. When you quiet one noise, the next remaining noise becomes your target.

We are definitely missing Sir Ville’s usual remarks about stop fuxing and just shooting.

Sir Ville was showing off two or three different cocking handles several months ago. I haven’t seen a post in months from him. Hope he’s OK.

Guykuo,

Very nice clean mod Sir. I was wondering what the white puddy/clay under your Hawke scope wheel is all about?

Nice!

Man,,,SniperQty did this idea long time ago,,i saw it in one of his vids ,,, i think it is good for hunting and keeping eyes on the target ,,,

That is a GREAT idea! Being a lefty myself, That switchable cocking bolt is one of the main reasons I got a Vulcan. Depending on whether I am shooting from freehand or sticks or bench/tripod shooting, I prefer the bolt on different sides too. I may just have to give this mod a whirl!

Had some time today, so I went ahead and fabricated a new u-plate and cocking handle. I just hate waiting for things to arrive when I can go ahead and get things done now.

Result: Vulcan can now be cocked ambidextrously.

I only have hand tools and a drill press. So, I opted for aluminum instead of steel.
Traced the existing u-plate to layout on an aluminum bar.

A couple hours of drilling, sawing and filing got the shape roughed in enough for test fitting. Just a little more adjustment with some hand files and she’ll fit.

After smoothing the lines and surfaces, it was ready for final test fit. M6 bolt definitely clears all the slot edges. I don’t want the new plate to be a guide or lockup. The original plate does that job. The new plate is just to cover the mechanism and stiffen the gun.
Looks good. Time for painting.

While coats of Bulldog, color, and clear coats were drying, I whipped up a cocking handle around an M6 30 mm hex cap screw. My junk bin had an unused tailswitch that was just the right size. Drilled out its center and countersink it to accept the cap screw head. Deformed and filled in some threads of the M6 bolt with solder (after assembly) so it won’t screw in too far. Also, ground away the tapered end of the bolt to improve thread engagement. Some black paint and the new handle was done.

Here everything is after final assembly. I have the factory knob and normal plate on the left side. My new plate is on right side of my Vulcan. I shoot lefty and prefer the main cocking handle on the left, but sometimes want to cock with my right hand. Now I can!

From the rear, you can see how the new bolt handle goes up while the stock one goes down. Action is nice is smooth because the new plate adds zero friction.

Here is a better view of my new u-plate and handle.

Thanks. So, he is where those came from.

Ernest Rowe aka Esting Rowe on YT aka Sniperlabyo on TAG aka http://sniperlabyo-precision-airguns.com

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