Mutant fps problems…
I’ve been using my mutant out in the cold and started noticing poi shifts mostly elevation. Thought it may have been due to cold gun , cold air etc. But after getting gun indoors and warmed up I did a chrony test. I was shocked to see my 8fps es gun was now wildly inconsistent. Jumping from 820 to 898 to 880 to 800 etc etc.. I played with hammer spring tension to no avail.
I’m hoping it’s just a oring? But maybe regulator?
Any armchair diagnoses’ welcome!!
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It’s been in the 20s F, but the issue persisted after being room temp for 24hrs . I’ve replaced breech o ring and I’m going to retest, may have to open things up and replace more orings. Should be an interesting first time airgun repair.
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what’s the temp like in your area ?
the taipan tube manual says works best at +5~+40 c
YouTube is there nothing you can’t do? Thanks for the link.
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I will check that out, thanks. I think I found its home like you said under the cocking lever in a small spring loaded hole.. seems to work..!
Now I just need to figure out what’s up with the swinging fps..
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Is it the one that sits on top of the spring holding the cocking lever in place? Look up Ernst Rowe’s video on changing the cocking lever from left to right to see what I am asking about.
Argh, I wanted to replace breech oring and clean the barrel so I decided to remove the cover/housing for the probe block and out falls a small ball bearing with no apparent home. Anyone know where this ball bearing belongs? It’s not on the exploded diagram which appears to be different design than my standard.. this is why I don’t tinker!!!>_<
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:hoot:
Dear Momat…
Aluminum and compressed air are excellent conductors of temperature. Cold air is dense, hot air is expanded…same with aluminum and all parts made with metal.
Don’t panic just yet. Extreme variations in temperature cause changes in the molecular structure of various metals, gasses, and greases. Aluminum reacts faster to temperature variations than stainless steel. Some plastics don’t react at all. Different lubes react in different time frames to major temperature changes.
If your gun was in a heated house and you then take it out into sub-freezing air, you can expect everything in that gun to have been impacted. As the gun cools down, check out the air pressure…you will find it has dropped a couple hundred psi. Regulators set to perform in warmth, are not going to repeat that same performance in frigid air. POI’s will change, air pressure will change, trajectories will change, O-rings may or may not seal as well, lubes, especially, will reduce friction less efficiently, moving parts will move more slowly.
Let the gun stabilize with the ambient temperature before you shoot. It should then perform more consistently, but don’t expect the numbers to be exactly the same as when shooting in a stable warm temperature. Even a change in altitude will affect an air gun’s performance.
Relax…take a breath. Don’t compare 80F results with results at 10F, there will be differences. Further, it takes time for the gun to completely cool down, or heat back up, and all the different materials in the gun will respond in different time frames.
Unless you have been diddling with the gun before taking it out in the cold, then accept that dramatic temperature change is the most likely culprit. Don’t draw any conclusions until that gun has set for several hours/overnight and then test it again. If it’s still way off, then you can worry…but not until. Some thick lubes can take several hours to regain their correct viscosity…and just about everything in that gun is affected with how the lube is performing.
Those are my thoughts. Not everyone will agree…but then I don’t really care. They have a right to their opinion….even if it is wrong.
Warm regards,
Kindly ‘Ol Uncle Hoot:
Not too happy I’m going to have to tear into it, especially since I have no clue, and there is barely 1000 pellets thru it!!
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not sure whats going on…
But If it were me… Id just pull the Regulator break it down clean it out. Change out all the Orings, ( replace the 2 on the rotor with proper eurothane Orings) While your at it I would swap out the small grub screw on the adjuster cap for one that has a nylon tip.
put a light lube on the belleville washers … then reassemble. Then tune it back to your desired FPS.
Im thinking the Orings on the Rotor maybe going out… The ones the manufacture use are of shitty quality (they get hard and brittle after time)
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Well I’m happy to say, according to the chrony the breech o ring was the culprit with the last 10 shots being within 5 fps of each other. No more swing!
Funny thing is we’ve had swarms of starlings past few days so I had to break out the old mrod and she ruled the day, forgot what a great gun that Benji is..
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