Q:

Tuxing style compressor setup

I got my 110V tuxing style compressor last night and I thought I would give some insight on how I setup the compressor hoping to help out anyone out there who is looking to purchase one. I got mine from Aliexpress.com from LJ high pressure Co. Mine did not have the Tuxing branding but it is the same compressor.

Right off the bat let me recommend a shop vac for the unboxing. Mine had a pretty rough box but the styrofoam packing did a nice job of keeping everything protected but being banged around a bit the styrofoam coated the outside of the compressor and even inside the cover on the motor. I removed the caseing and blew it off with some compressed air and vaccuumed up the mess.

This next part is important. There is some residual oil left over from the factory’s initial test run. It looks like plain old motor oil. Tilt the machine back and get you a 10mm socket and remove the crankcase cover. Behind the crankcase is a rubber gasket. Get in there and soak up or suck up all the oil that you can. Manually move the piston so you expose as much of the cylinder as you can. I used a spray gun like from a cleaner bottle and misted some ISO VG 68 (just using this for break in, got some Chemlube 751 Iso vg 150 en route) oil into the cylinder, making sure to get the wrist pin and lastly on the rod to crank joint. I was upset to see that there are no roller bearings on the crank but it is what it is. I then reattached the crankcase cover making sure that the gasket stayed in the groove. Go on a fill her up with oil to the recommended level.

After that break out a couple wrenches and start screwing everything together. I used teflon tape on every joint. The oil/water separator has small o-rings to help with sealing, make sure you install them. The wider part of the seapartor should be on the hose side and the quick connect, that I had to remove from the hose so that I could attach it to the separtor, should go on the thinner side of the separator. Screw in the pressure gauge, ensure that the switch is off and plug it in. The water pump should be attached to the water inlet hose on the head. Make sure the lines are secured before dunking the pump and plugging in the pump beside the switch on the machine. Let the pump purge out all of the air from the head.

Now, You are ready to do a break in. Put in the plug on the end of the whip. I made sure both bleeders were opened. Flip the switch and be ready to cover your ears. The compressor is pretty loud. On par with a pancake compressor. Fortunately mine has the nice rubber suction feet so it didn’t vibrate around everywhere but it vibrates pretty good. I ran it for 5 minutes with no load, all the while watching the temperature climb slowly. After 5 minutes, I closed the low pressure bleeder on the side first, be careful cause it gets pretty hot. Then I closed the high pressure bleeder and watched the pressure climb on up to 4500psi. When it got to 4500 I opened the low pressure bleeder, the pressure on the gauge slowly goes down, then I opened the high pressure bleeder quickly. This is where the vapor comes out, you cant see it but you can feel it. I did this about 10 times then bleed it all the way down, let it run for 2 more minutes to push out any remnants of water in the pistons and shut it down. When I finished the 4 or so gallons of water were lukewarm and the temp gauge was reading 43C.

I did find a bit of water at the separator but the tampon felt dry, no oil stains but the oil is water clear right now. I think it is very important to run the compressor for a minute or 2 after you bleed off the air pressure so you get any water that may be in the cylinder out. I took this idea from reading the review of the carrette after the 24 hour torture test. I will say that I like this compressor so far. It gets the job done at a good price. I got the compressor 11 days from the time that I ordered it and I would have gotten it earlier if I hadn’t made a mistake when putting in my address. it shipped out April 5th and I got it on the 10th. The seller was great with communication as we had to go back and forth a couple times over my address. I plan to use this for direct fills on my Priest and I see a 2L tank in my near future. Can’t speak about longevity yet but I think the operator will determine this more than anything. This compressor has to be monitored and some smarts while operating.

Hope this helps.

Compressors, tanks and pumps

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Viewing 13 replies - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)

Exactly and not complaining at all. Just letting others know that using this compressor that’s allowing oil/water into a PCP tank is in fact a potential explosion hazard.

quote MJP:

Well its a shop compressor hack so you need some work with it. But any way you look at it with all its down sides it still beats pumping by a long shot right?
Respect the machine what it is, add a filter and be happy, don’t try to pretend what it is not. Its not a bauer or coltri, but hey you didnt spend 2-3k for it either.

Marko

A mirror of my thoughts

Well its a shop compressor hack so you need some work with it. But any way you look at it with all its down sides it still beats pumping by a long shot right?
Respect the machine what it is, add a filter and be happy, don’t try to pretend what it is not. Its not a bauer or coltri, but hey you didnt spend 2-3k for it either.

Marko

I am fairly certain that it is mostly identical. Even looking at the carrette you’ll see a painfully similar crankcase and piston cylinders to the air venturi compressor which itself is a soupped up version of the mrodair airmax that was deemed unsafe on this forum. The difference is in the head, drive, and all the other things they add to make the unit deliver better quality air and protect the machine itself. Like most all china stuff, usually it’ll get you about 80% to where you want to be. Extras are usually needed to get you a real quality piece of equipment.

Mines not the tuxing unit but sure all are very similar.

This separator is a joke and I’m def going to purchase something better. These pics are after about 10-12 min of total use over 4-5x. I’m going to start doing the bleed off and tank higher until I can get a new seperator. Going to run it after also like you do and see if that helps. Def reason to be concerned!!!

So far I’ve topped my Benjamin SCBA from 2800 to 4500 and it worked fine. I’ve had shipping damage (broken crank case cove) but its fixed and the 2nd stage rings were a little messed up so I fixed them and it works good now but I did order a bunch of new rings for replacement and for future replacement. So far I would purchase another one.

Here is the inside nothing special


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Well i would like to see the material thickness on the separator for one and overall build quality. Maybe some sampling of the oil water mix on a white rag to see how the separator is going by its busines.
I’m not buying one i have a booster and compressor but for science and so on.

Marko

Maximum size air chamber you felt comfortable filling was the info I was after and you answered that. Good info.

Well, I’d love to post up pictures but really the only thing that wasn’t already in the original would be inside the crankcase. Let me tell you, it is nothing surprising. A crank and a rod, that is about it. I guess if you guys can give me a little more to work with, like what it is that you would like to see, then I can try my best.

Biz, just off my initial impressions of filling a 350cc tank from 150 to 300 bar, I would stick to filling nothing more than a 2L or 118cu in or 18cu ft. This is the Guppy tank size from airtanksforsale.com. Every 2 minutes I bleed off the air to try my best to keep moisture/oil out of the gun. I also elevate the gun so it is above the compressor. I think this compressor is just the trick for direct gun fills and the guppy tank. I wouldn’t want to try for more than that. I am happy I bought it so far, but after all it has only been a day and I am still in love with not hand pumping to 300bar.

Thank you Jman, and yes, pics please. Read the epic original thread on these and believe this is the route I’ll be going in time.

Nice review, some pics would be nice also. Good to others to do a indepth step by step procedure that is easy to follow.
This is what i like about this ag community. People looking after each other.

Marko

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