12" barrel ?
Did i see it right? can i put a 12″ .25 barrel in my condor with a talon end cap? does it give some sound suppression somehow?
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What kind of foot pounds could a person get front a 12 inch barrel on a condor with just a talon tunes quick change tophat? And what kind of range.thanks
They’re made of steel- it’s in the description… :confusedn:
are they made from delrin?
Google image “monocore suppressor baffle”. DonnyFl might make you one.
One piece baffle the looks like Swiss cheese
Very easy to make.
monocore baffle ? cant really find much info on one…got a link? yea i cant buy another gun right now. would like my condor to serve double duty as a short carbine for the smaller game …and then be able to convert into a slug chucker…
That’s what a Talon SS is, a Condor length frame with a 12″ barrel, baffles and a SS end cap.
Options for inserts are:
– The Sound Loc system from AF, which (to me) is over-priced and doesn’t work all that well on higher power guns. Although, since you said you don’t need backyard quiet, it may work for you. It’s good enough to take the edge off that muzzle crack. YMMV!
– Make your own monocore baffle.
– Have someone make you a monocore baffle to put in there.
Of course, if you’re really looking for short, and don’t care about sound levels, Rrdstarr’s idea of a TalonP is another option as well!!
Now, if you’re not looking to buy another airgun and you want a short, balanced and quiet .25, you could build a Microlite bullpup. Using a 18″ .25 barrel, a TalonP tank and Tagdagger’s Microlite kit. With a Condor length frame, you should be able to install a Sound-Loc kit. The airgun should be pretty darn quiet! Short too!! Probably around 36″ or so.
These AF guns are damn near Lego’s with how many options you have!!
Why not buy a TalonP instead? .25 calibre and 4 1/2 lbs. My one has a Burris FastFire III
It would be cool to use a shorter tuned down rig in the forest. If i could make that work. where do you get these baffles? cant seem to find them in my short search. Its a hunter and doesnt need to be “urban” quiet…but i do like having some sound suppression out there. I have a short one on the 24″…Has anyone tried the 12″ in the condor?…Ill bet it would work with a TT one piece tophat…there must be a little weight savings also to help out on a long trek…
It does give some noise suppression. Depends where you live if you can have baffles in it or not!
The 12″ barrel is used in the TalonP, TalonSS, Escapees, etc…..
Are you trying to use a 12″ barrel in a regular Condor?
Yes….the space between the muzzle and end cap acts as a baffle…
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I thought we answered this question. As the barrel gets shorter, the accuracy and FPE decrease as well. On a stock Condor with the 24″ barrel, you can easily reach out and touch things at 150 yards. I’m talking about hitting 2-4″ targets. If you slightly modify the gun (add a regulator and high flow, 1 piece top hat), you will tighten your groups by 50-60% throughout the shot string. The modifications are a standard across the board. You WILL increase accuracy and increase shots per fill on your tank. But as you shorten the barrel you will see decreases in accuracy over distance. It’s simple physics. The barrels have a twist rate of 16:1. Every 16″, the pellet makes 1 complete rotation. The engineers have deemed this is the best twist rate for pellets. NOT for slugs! I’ll get to that later in the post. But, to make this understandable let’s compare the pellet to a football. When a quarterback throws a football, they want a tight spiral. The harder the quarterback throws, the tighter the spiral needs to be. This is due to physics. The faster it moves, the more resistance it encounters as it cuts through the air. If your rifle is the quarterback, it’s always throwing a really fast pass. The rifle can’t determine whether you’re shooting close or far. So it releases a predetermined burst of air to hurl the pellet (football) at a predetermined speed.
So if you have a Condor with a 24″ barrel, you’re getting 1.75 rotations on the pellet at the muzzle. This equates to a very tight and precise spiral on a football. The Condor SS has a 18″ Barrel. So the pellet is leaving the muzzle with 1.15 rotations. Still a good spiral, but not as tight as the 24″ barrel. The 12″ barrel is hurling pellets with only 3/4 of a rotation at the muzzle. It does get the pellet spinning in the right direction, but not nearly as tight as the other 2. It’s equivalent to the QB throwing a pass to a receiver. If the receiver is close, it’s not as important that the spiral be tight. The short distance will compensate for the lessened stability of the football. The speed of the pellet makes this possible. But if it’s a hail Mary pass, there will come a point in the trajectory of the pellet where the speed will be superseded by the physics of the twist rate. The first thing to suffer will be accuracy because the pellet will start to become unstable in flight and wobble.
So to answer your question, I think accurate 50-60 yard shots with a 12″ barrel is feasible. But consistent groupings beyond that are not. You can increase the groupings by regulating the air, but this requires a $200 upgrade. I’ve done the upgrade, and I can say it’s DEFINITELY worth it. My FPS only vary by 10 over a 20 group shot string. There is no bell curve like there is on an un-regulated tanks and valve assembly.
Now, I think I read earlier that you want multiple barrels because you want to lob some slugs. Well, before you do that, you need to know something about the LW barrels that Air Force uses. They have a choke at the last 1″ of the barrel. It’s literally only .002″ so it seems insignificant. Here’s a rule of thumb for barrels. Pellets love a choke. Bullets HATE a choke. So when guys convert their guns, they do 1 of 2 things. They cut off the last 1″ of the barrel to remove the choke, and they take it to a gunsmith to get it re-crowned. Or they order a new barrel w/out a choke. I’m pretty sure the twist rate for slugs is a bit different as well.
So if you decide to get a new barrel for hurling slugs, you’re going to need to modify your valve assembly. It takes 3 x’s as much air to hurl a slug, even though the slug only weighs 2x’s as much as the pellets. There is way more surface area on the slug as there is on a pellet. This equates to much more resistance to propel the slug over the pellet. And you DEFINITELY want a longer barrel for slugs. The only reason you would do this modification would be for hunting small and mid sized game. And you want the extra accuracy, distance, and FPE that come with a longer barrel. So if you want to use your gun for both, get ready to drop some cash. If you modify your barrel to shoot slugs, and try to push pellets through it, you will cut down your accuracy by 40%.