anodising
I know this has been done to death but i had a go at coloured anodising and thaught id show how it turnd out.
I didn’t polish it.Its strait out of the jaws so i think it would be even deeper if idv’e spent a bit of time on the wheel.
Just used normal fabric dye disolved in warm water and left it to soak for 10 mins’
Ive seen a bit about fade anodising. Anyone know owt about it ? Should be interesting to try.
Anyway, i’m off to work. Effin’ nights. 🙁
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fingers crossed mate .it,s that or the gen 1+is on the gun for the weekend lol instead off the gen2+
Lets not kiss each butts dicks just yet ! 😯 , see if it fits first ……..praying !!!!
once again mate thanks for your great work .cany wait to get it onto the scope and get out with it to try it out . cheers mate . 😀
Yep A*L*F the site youve posted is good for info and one ive read through a few times. 😀
As far as a finger print signature Adam …… lets see what Rabbits thinks about F*****G his finish up lol ………….but it is free 😯 and as long as his NV fits , he will be happy 😀
Just consider the fingerprint your signature on a piece of Art!
Found some more info on home anodizing. This is from a guy how does it for a living (at least partly). His web site is very informative as to all aspects, especially acid concentration, amperage/ part area and hanging parts. He uses and recommends aluminum 12 gauge wire for hanging parts.
Web site: <www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize.htlm>
Scroll down past the ads, price list, etc. to the “Procedures” section. Good info.
Abe
Ran a couple of test runs then went and did Rabbits top rail .Came out even black all over with a few finger prints on top just because its free and i int too bothered ….hehe
Ran this at 12v 6amps for 2 hours ,tried an hour on another rail i done ( scrap because some one didnt give me the right diam,s….. 👿 ) but it didnt hold the dye but this worked fine when i cut the acid down and increased the time. Got a new power supply on the way which is 24v and 10 amps so im gona try something bigger soon.
Made a small agitator with a motor and a bit of bent alloy tube which works great and you can tell the differance in the tank. Tracking down some titaniuim wire is proving either expensive or tricky ,but lets say ive got a phone number so were see 😀
L8r all
That is actually a very hi tec bit of kit.
Its a ” hi’temp pigment depositer and oxidisation sealer unit”
Al bring it back when its broke.
I spotted this high-tec dyeing vessel in Blodnobs garage. It looks very similar to the one I had in my garage but it went missing a couple of months ago. I think Blodnob must have smuggled it out up his jumper.
Abe,
Read up on the process of anodising.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anodising
The cathode(lead or aluminium) is nog atacked during anodising.
Here are the reactions
The lead has an higher redox potential apposed to water. So water is reduced at the cathode as opposed to water.
The sulphuric acid isn’t taking part of the raction in any other way than transporting electrons!
After completion of the rection there is a open layer of aluminium oxide on the aluminium surface. that is sealed through boiling. Before sealing you can use a dye to color it.
BTW the nitric used in preping the aluminium is just about 35% an prety dilute. You should handle it with care but it’s not concentrated nitric so not overly dangerous.
Regards,
Marc
Ive used the same pieces of lead from the get go and can’t say that they,ve alterd in any way. They’ll get that aged patina when left out of the acid for any length of time but as for any dimensional changes, nothing.
I must be doing it wrong.
😕
I treat the anodising and colouring as two seperate proccesses. I mix the last two ( dying and sealing ) steps by using the dye to seal the anodised layer.I just boil the parts in a kettle of dye or poor the boiling dye over the pieces and adgitate.
Sean.
I’m not, but read all of the above.
Abe
Blodnob, are you using any current with the dye bath? And are you using dyes along with the lead cathode? Pretty much the same question.
Buba B, Careful with that Nitric acid. Fumes are DANGEROUS. I’d move your power supply farther away to avoid even the CHANCE of getting a facefull of fumes when bending over it to shut it off. Sulphufic (battery) acid is bad enough but Nitric…
That’s enough science for now. Sorry about being long winded. Blod, thanks in advance for the answers.
Abe
Are you getting plating confused with anodizing?
The result of anodizing is porous Aluminum oxide which accepts colour and is then sealed by immersing in boiling water trapping the colour.
lead would prevent this, no?
just trying to understand this.
What seems to be missed is that the cathode (lead plate) is actually dissolved by the acid. This is why it corrodes/erodes away. The dissolved material is forced to migrate to the anode by the electric current where it lays down a thin (microns think) layer of the metal. Any metal, not just lead, which can be dissolved in acid can be used which is why I asked about using lead.
Blodnob, are you using any current with the dye bath? And are you using dyes along with the lead cathode? Pretty much the same question.
Buba B, Careful with that Nitric acid. Fumes are DANGEROUS. I’d move your power supply farther away to avoid even the CHANCE of getting a facefull of fumes when bending over it to shut it off. Sulphufic (battery) acid is bad enough but Nitric…
That’s enough science for now. Sorry about being long winded. Blod, thanks in advance for the answers.
Abe
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Abe
You got me confused as well because you are reading stuff that I didn’t see in the above posts either. Where did it say lead-aluminum alloy strip and where did buba mention nitric acid ❓
PS Nevermind. Not worth mentioning.