Just changed breach seals…
Got the breach seals from Tony yesterday, (Thanks again Tony) I tore my gun down all the way for the first time, cleaned ID of frame, looks like a mirror finish inside now. I found it was easier to take the old seals out then putting the new ones back in, but I did it.
After I put it back together, I cocked the gun just to make sure it worked. I noticed a definite ‘hangup’ just before the breach slid all the way to the end to cock. I was wondering why it was doing this, when it cocked so much smoother before… my question is, could this just be because of the newer o rings sliding over the barrel with a new tighter tolerance? Is there a breaking in period for new seals? Wonder if anyone else noticed this when installing new seals. If it’s not the seals, I’m not sure what it is… 😯
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What Shrp said.
But how can tighter seals mean less volocity? If it takes care of airleaks, I would think tighter seals would mean more air going out the barrel where it’s supposed to go?
The breech has to be tight enough to seal, but loose enough to allow free movement when struck by the hammer in order to actuate the valve properly. Too tight and the breech will absorb hammer impact without transferring momentum to open the valve and result in soft shots or reduced velocity
I’ll sand more before I do that. These are the 90 durometer rings, and have heard they are better than the stock ones. Tony uses them, Mac 1 Tim replaces stock ones with these, saying they last longer with a better seal…
But how can tighter seals mean less volocity? If it takes care of airleaks, I would think tighter seals would mean more air going out the barrel where it’s supposed to go?
If the seals are to tight they will decrease your velocity. If you don’t want to do to much sanding on the barrel, you can go to Harbour Frieghts and get a set of orings for cheap.
OK, I’ll get some of that sandpaper. But I think what I’m feeling is the new seal simply trying to make it over, or fit around the OD of the barrel when cocking. I also noticed that if I move the breach forward just a bit, and then let it come back on it’s own, the seal gets a little hung up when trying to re-seat around the top hat. It will stop when it hits it, and the breach kinda ‘snaps’ back to normal resting position when the seal makes it around the top hat.
In other words, it seems the ID of these new seals is smaller than the old ones, making it harder to fit around the OD of barrel and top hat, but I guess the result would be a better air tight seal. If all this is ‘normal’ with new seals, that’s fine with me I guess.
Well, the breach end of the barrel isn’t a mirror polish, but it’s still pretty damn smooth, cleaned it good and I lubed it up with the silicone… I guess I could try and polish it more.
Wet & Dry grade 1500, until the paper is smooth, followed by Holts Microcompound (or equivilant) will do the job nicely. I can see my face in mine (not a pretty sight, but it’s a gun after all 😆 ).
Well, the breach end of the barrel isn’t a mirror polish, but it’s still pretty damn smooth, cleaned it good and I lubed it up with the silicone… I guess I could try and polish it more.
Those seals run rough over the barrel. That barrel needs to get polished up!
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OK, just got home from work, and I do understand shrp’s theory. Really wish i had a chrony now, but still don’t. However, I just shot some some really decent groups after re-zeroing the gun in. Kodiaks still plow easily thru 1 1/2″ wood @ 20 yrds at PW 4. If the seals are resulting in less velocity, I can’t tell, and it’s minimal if it is. Maybe a cleaned inner frame and cleaned lubed hammer is compensating for the tighter seals a bit, I don’t know, but I’m gonna leave them in for now. I’m thinking as they wear in a bit things might get even better. The gun also seems a bit quieter. So far, I’m glad I did it.
Now ….if only my new scope would get here already…