CNC conversion
I’m thinking I wont have my mill long before I want to start with CNC…. But I have a dilemma.
I can only have one mill – a Harbor Freight Mini Mill. I was very keen on the CNC conversion from Stirling Steele because it lets you use it as a manual mill aswell as the CNC aspect –
http://stirlingsteele.com/millplans.html
BUT, I also like the idea of having ball screws like with the kit from CNC Fusion, except that it doesn’t allow it to be used manually anymore –
http://www.cncfusion.com/minimill1.html
So I guess I’m asking if the Stirling Steele is going to be so much noticeably less accurate and repeatable than a ball screw equipped CNC Mini Mill because I really would like to be able to use the mill manually for a quick and simple one off part instead of having to set up the CNC and draw a picture etc etc.
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be warned though, the higher speeds belt kit and longer run times of CNC might give you some heat problems.
The bearings usually come tight and heat up rather badly.
Easiest way to fix it is carefully pull the spindle out and sand down the part that goes thru the upper bearing, you want a smooth slip fit, that way the tension adjustment nut on the top of the spindle actually does something
just finished doing mine tonight, I had actually replaced the bearings thinking they might be the problem… it actually got worse!, thats when I figured out what the real issue was.
Thanks All,
Dogwood – I heard CygnusX’s mill before the belt drive. I’d heard they were loud but holy shit, so that was part of the first group of accessories I ordered.
shrpshotr28 is on the money, acme screws can be set up just as accurately as the rolled ball screws, the biggest difference is friction…. the ball screws move with a great deal less effort than the acme’s.
It allows for much faster rapids and cuts, but because they do turn so easy in order to use them manually you have to lock one axis while you turn the other, they also tend to have a faster twist (i.e. 5 turns per inch as opposed to 20 turns per inch for Standard acme) so serious precision would be harder in manual mode with the ball screws.
that being said, I’m getting Nook XPR ball screws for my mill, I found that it faster and more accurate to just use the jog function when I’m to lazy to CAM up a simple job. 🙄
the first mod you really should make is to set it up with a belt drive – worlds better and quieter
Oh, maybe the ball screw upgrade kit from CNC Fusion would work on the Steele kit?
Both companies offer ball screws as an upgrade to the basic kit. The one from Stirling Steele you have to purchase your own ball screws but I guess he lists sources in his upgrade plans. The one from CNC Fusion has the ball screw kit ready to go to upgrade the base kit or you can buy it as a complete cnc package from the start.
I would say buy the Steele kit and then upgrade to ball screws later if you feel the need. I would hate to lose my manual feeds for the times when you need them.
yn
I have recently been reading a LOT on the different CNC drive systems myself while waiting for my new lathe/mill to get here.
Here’s the way I interpret the difference:
The biggest advantage of ball screws/servo drive is speed of operation. A stepper motor and standard lead screw setup can be just as accurate, albeit must function at slower feed rates. If you are not planning on large quantities of like items where time becomes a premium, I’d skip the ballscrews and keep ability to operate manually. Just my .02.
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I agree with everthing said before but …..http://www.fignoggle.com/index.htm
They use acme lead screws with Derlin nuts , this is the way im going , to keep cost down and maintain manual control and to reduce friction . Might be the answer , ball screws are still expensive over here and i dont need high feed rates for doing one off,s.
http://www.hossmachine.info/
Another link for info and intrest