Couldn’t resist a little test on the new barrel.
I’ve only got 18yds out back, but I thought I’d at least zero the windage before going to the old dear’s long range oop t’north.
It’s looking very sweet. The rounds were going about a foot under the mark (no point zeroing elevation at 18yds ay) but without any adjustment on the scope they were bang on the vertical line, each one into a dime-sized hole. That’s already a huge improvement over the old 18″ barrel.
So, so far I’m pleased as punch. 😀
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The proper way to zero in is to determan how much drop you you want to have. Lets say 2″ (thats 1″ high to 1″ low) then you find the zenith (highest) for that particular pellit you are using because it traveles in curve (parabolic), lets say the zenith is 40 yards. Now you sight the gun in 1″ high at its zenith, 40 yards. Now, as the pellit flies, it will start 3″ low at point blank range, it will come up an be 1″ low at some range(depending on pellit) say 20 yards, keep comming up and be dead on at say 30 yards, keep comming up to its zenith at say 40 yards and then start dropping and will be dead on again at say 47 yards and then drop down to 1″ low at say 53 yards.
If you sight in this way you will never be off more than 1″ high or low from 20 to 53 yards. If force a zero point where you want it instead of figuring an allowable high low and finding the zenith than you will off by alot at other distances. Work with the gun and you will be rewarded.
Your results may vary! 😯
Mike
Yes, it can make things interesting. If it had the power it would be best zeroed at a longer range, then everything less would be droppage. 40yds seemed pretty good on the 18″ barrel though, it was pretty flat between 40 and 75, which reduced variation.
On our guns, with the high mount, the centerline of the scope is apx. 3″ above the Bore centerline.
Your results may vary! 😯
Mike
I’ll zero it properly for 40yds when I have the range (the old dear’s farm). Then I’ll try it down to 25yds and out to 75yds and 100yds and see where the rounds go per the mildots. With a few hundred rounds after that I should have my brain zeroed in too. 😆
Thanks for the link, I’ll check it out. Never done it that way before, so it should be interesting. 😀
A foot low at 18 yards is a bit much.
Download chairgun.com and type the range you’d like it to be zeroed at and then see how far below/above the pellet is at 18 yards and make two dots that distance apart on the target – 1 to aim at, and one where the pellets should be landing and zero accordingly. Then you wont have as much work to do out in the field…. 1 foot at 18 yards is going to be way off paper at 30 yards, never mind 40 or 50.
If you cant figure out chairgun… measure the distance between the barrel’s and scope centerline and use that distance to draw the two dots at – which should have you at least on paper at longer distances.
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The pellet describes an imperfect arc, one that intersects the line of the scope once or twice. At that/those point/s you have a ‘zero’, everywhere else you have to compensate with personal judgement (aided by whatever).
I guess everyone has their own way of visualising and describing it, but they all refer to the exact same process. 🙂