Frame flex
I’ve only recently subscribed to the forum as I was researching the purchase of a Condor (ordered it a couple of days ago). I’ve learned a great deal and I’ve run across several messages in the forum that refer to “frame flex”. I was wondering if anyone can provide additional details regarding this topic. Are both the Talon and Condor subject to flexing? Is it a bad thing? Can anything be done or avoided in order to mitigate flexing? What area of the frame prone to flexing?
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You can put a set of low mount rings on top of a Tri Rail and it wont be any higher than a set of high mounts. You can can go even lower on a Tri Rail with some mods but most dont like their scopes so low on these guns.
Heres mine, you can see how it beefs up the very thin scope rail.
Heres someones one piece mount that does the same thing and is about the same height.
Bart,
That was a great write up!
Playing with chairgun I’ve noticed the higher the scope the further out it moves or slides window at witch the pellet is between the close and far zero. I never thought of the possibility of a huge canting issue with my scope being so high. I have a one-piece mount with high rings on my TSS, I was considering the rail along with my one piece mount to see if it makes a difference with flex, but now I think I will hold off, because it will make canting errors worse.
I took a shot on a rabbit two weeks ago 60 yards. Resting the bipod on the hood of my truck to take the shot. I noticed the gun was leaning so I tried to raise one leg. I got close to level, but not as much as I would of liked.
I didn’t figure it out till the drive home why the gun all the sudden was shooting high and to the left. I thought my friend that was using it might of bumped it or something.
Anyway thanks, I will be more mindful of the canting and invest in a level.
Roger
Yes, both Talon and Condor have frame flex, because they both have the same weak spot in the frame, which is the slot where the breech is, basically where you put your pellet in the barrel.
Because there is so much material removed, the rigidity of the frame is severely reduced in that area.
And it is most definitely a bad thing, the front of the frame (containing your barrel) can flex (not much, but a little is devastating enough) in regards to the back of the frame, where your scope will be mounted, thus creating an angle between your barrel and the scope.
It’s easily prevented though, as long as you remember not to clinch your rifle too much against your shoulder or put torsion on the grip, instead use a light hold, and you will be fine.
It just takes some getting used to.
Mounting an Airforce tri-rail on top of the frame helps making the frame stiffer again, and adds some height to your scope.
A one-piece mount for your scope will help a little as well (less than the tri-rail, as the tri-rail is usually longer).
Heightening the scope with the tri-rail will make your accuracy suffer more due to canting though, so I guess you’ll have to weigh the pros and cons.
Bart
PS: Congratz on the new purchase, and welcome to the club 😈
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Thanks,
That looks clean with the bipod mounted on top to.
Roger