Q:

Bolt/Breach won’t rotate to side slot…

I put my new barrel in last night, and just did some shooting from inside the house out the window into backyard target box… can’t shoot outside, don’t have frame extender/shroud yet, way to loud.

When I cock the gun, and pull the bolt back, it won’t rotate left or right into the carved out slot area. It pulls over the top hat nicely, just like it always did. The bolt knob is in all the way, so it’s not touching the bottom of the scope rail, and I can see the knob screw has plenty of clearance to go left or right into the locked position, but it won’t budge, and wants to stay straight up and down. I’m not grouping that well either, and wondering if this could be the reason… any ideas?

EDIT, Actually, the bolt will go L or R just a few degrees, but no where near enough to seat in the locked position.

General Chat

All Replies

Viewing 12 replies - 1 through 12 (of 12 total)

quote Triggerman:

Kenny-

Time to put that black stick down for awhile and go drink a beer before you break something……. 😆 😆 😆

Rick, this might be the best advice I’ve gotten so far LOL. But I appreciate everyone’s advice…………………………….. think I will crack a cold one… 😛

Kenny-

Time to put that black stick down for awhile and go drink a beer before you break something……. 😆 😆 😆

Yeah I just looked up the reference section, set mine to aprox 75 thou. Breach is fine now. Thing is, there’s a good amount of resistance when screwing in grub screws on top hat, so it’s hard to tell when you ‘bottom out’ on the valve stem, and when to stop. I went a bit to far and there’s a couple of dimples now on the ID of the damn stem… aarrrggg. This would make it hard to make fine tune ajustments, as the grub screws will now want to seat in the same dimples… 😡

quote Saugus18:

Thx guys, fixed that to face yet another catch… for the first time, I added the striker weight, and attached the Condor bottle to the gun. The top hat on the Hi flo is sticking out way farther than the Talon one, making it so the breach can’t move back far enough to rotate left or right to make it to the locked position. I got a feeler gauge to measure the top hat gap between it and the valve face, and it’s like 118 thou give or take a couple… is this right? Seems like a lot, is that the standard factory setting? The only way to get the breach to lock would be to screw the top hat in until the breach can make it back far enough to lock?

correct. Mine is set about .080 (haven’t measured in a while), basically the end of the TH is flush with the end of the valve stem.

Thx guys, fixed that to face yet another catch… for the first time, I added the striker weight, and attached the Condor bottle to the gun. The top hat on the Hi flo is sticking out way farther than the Talon one, making it so the breach can’t move back far enough to rotate left or right to make it to the locked position. I got a feeler gauge to measure the top hat gap between it and the valve face, and it’s like 118 thou give or take a couple… is this right? Seems like a lot, is that the standard factory setting? The only way to get the breach to lock would be to screw the top hat in until the breach can make it back far enough to lock?

quote Saugus18:

Never participated in such events Adam, although my band has sparked a few in the past, at which time I would be on stage far removed from the maddness lol.

I got another question related to this thread… my breach knob is becoming very loose, and starting to wobble in it’s hole. It wants to screw in more, which would make it sturdier, but as already mentioned, the bottom of the knob then hits the frame, which is no good. Any temporary fix for this? Maybe a screw with same threads that I could screw in deeper and still clear the scope rail? The reason I say temporary is because I’m waiting on a brand new breach and knob from shrpshotr28, and just need to get by until it gets here.

Try some insulation-tape wrapped tightly around the thread.

sounds like the bushing below the knob is worn out. you can remove the knob and replace the bushing with a 1/4 inch long piece of nylon tubing or several washers of equivilant stacked height.

Never participated in such events Adam, although my band has sparked a few in the past, at which time I would be on stage far removed from the maddness lol.

I got another question related to this thread… my breach knob is becoming very loose, and starting to wobble in it’s hole. It wants to screw in more, which would make it sturdier, but as already mentioned, the bottom of the knob then hits the frame, which is no good. Any temporary fix for this? Maybe a screw with same threads that I could screw in deeper and still clear the scope rail? The reason I say temporary is because I’m waiting on a brand new breach and knob from shrpshotr28, and just need to get by until it gets here.

Ur Welcome.

I am sure your skull has seen 1 to many mosh pits anyways….

😛 😆 😆 😆 😆 😆 😛

OK, sorry for wasting bandwidth lol… I screwed down the breach knob TO much, the bottom of the rubber cap was rubbing against the frame, restricting it to move over, just loosened it a half turn, all is good. This seemed to help the groups as well, as you’ll see in a new thread. 😛 Guess I jumped the ‘gun’ on this one. Sorry 😳

check the grub screws on the tophat, may have one sticking out just enough to prevent rotation (snagging on the inside of the breech)

Just to insured nothing associated with the knob is restricting movement take it off and then see if the breech will rotate.

If it still wont rotate then you have narrowed it down to the breech itself.

Viewing 12 replies - 1 through 12 (of 12 total)

  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.