Accuracy problems
Hey Guys,
I’m having some accuracy problems after installing a frame extender, any ideas?
Thanks, Mike ❓
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As I look at the Frame Extender, muzzle face me with the screw hole at 6:00, I see a heavy build-up of lead dust starting at 1:00 continuing to 5:00 tapering down to minimal at 7:00. My “groups ” shot at 20 yards with the FE installed , point of impact moved 1.5 inches low and random showing a terrible 1″ + grouping. However with the FE removed and the end cap re-installed, POI returned along with ragged hole grouping. Looks like I need to shim the FE or is it better to rotate the FE , locate the “clean” path and drill a new grip hole ?
As far as the fire breather, it was a Model 700 Remington chambered for .257 Weatherby. We tried to build the ultimate “Mountain Rifle” utilizing a very slim barrel which started out free-floated. Best I could get was 1.5 at 100 till I put fore-stock pressure to it use a piece of inner tube, figuring a match book would last to long. 🙂 Worked like a champ! Got it shooting good then put it away. I found out what the term”point of diminishing return”meant. Way to much powdered for the barrel. I use my Remington 700 chambered for the 30:06 Ackley Improved exclusively getting touching clover leafs at the range.
Thanks for the continuing input,
Mike
🙂
mike why do you think you need to shim the barrel, are you seeing a content moon in the shroud when looking down it and spinning it?
do you have the stock barrel and bushings in the gun?
If that did indeed work for the flame thrower, you had action- receiver stabilization issues. Something wasn’t bedded properly back there! This has been a shooters trick for decades. However, with our AF guns, the dual lock downs in the alu. tube works fairly well. If you shim the bbl. further forward, it can have issues with hot and cold. Alu. likes to move a lot with temp changes. Even more than wooden stocks make from soft woods that are not dense enough. This is one of the reasons a full Manlicher style stock is so hard to get to shoot consistently. You may get fantastic groups today, with it being all over the place in a week.
All righty, I’ll give the “shimming ago and see if it helps. I had a fire breather once that was 100% free floated barrel. groups where 1.5” at 100 yards. I added slight forestock pressure via shims and watch it go to sub moa. Only a thought.
Thanks SS28,
Mike
Mike ❓
For purpose of this reply i am presuming “frame extender” means a Bill’s or homemade version of such, where the extender slides into the frame until contacting the front barrel bushing.
instead of putting pressure on the barrel, try “shimming” the extender. Put a small shim (ie piece of electrical tape) on the top of the extender where it will be just inside the frame and another at the very rear of the extender, on the bottom, facing downward. This will give the extender a slightly downward cant………..as opposed to putting the upward pressure on the barrel. should have the same effect.
As it turns out , I took off the frame extender and installed the end cap and did some shooting. Looks like I need a bushing between the barrel and the frame extender so I can apply a slight up pressure to the front of the barrel. Judging by what I’ve been reading , it should be vented, possible made of Delrin. Any ideas where a guy could get one made?
Mike ❓
the most important thing when adding a new shroud, extender, or anything like that is too sight down the barrel with the bottle off and the breach open for the best line of sight down said barrel, then you need to rotate the shroud wile looking down the barrel to find the “sweet spot” were there are absolutely no “shadows or moons” being casted in the barrel. if you find you have a “moon” that stays in the same spot wile rotating, (or spinning, how ever you want to say it) then you have other problems, but well cross that bridge if we come to it.
Clipping. three possible causes come to mind: exit hole not centered, extender not centered within the frame, barrel not centered in frame.
1. check barrel bushing screws make sure they are snug.
2. if poi for the group changed, vs shooting without the extender, try turning the extender 180deg within the frame and shoot again, see if poi shifts to the opposite side of the bullseye. if so, exit hole is most likely not centered.
3. 1″od tubing is slightly loose in the frame. try a single wrap of tape around the extender at the rearmost end of the extender and a second just behind where the grub screw contact the extender to hold it in place, use a little more or less tape to make the extender fit smoothly (not loosely) into the frame, keeping it properly centered.
I’m the last one here to rely on for any sound advice, but did you check the muzzle of the extender for any faint nicks? If you see any, it might be off-center by a tad.
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I think it would be better to spin yhe extender to find the sweet spot, they could be very different on different guns as we all know how well the A/f Q/C is.