Long Range Accuracy Crazy Talk
I’m trying to get the maximum long range accuracy out of my Condor. Almost all of the shots will be off of a bench rest. Wouldn’t it make sense to remove the forgrip and mount the bipod as far back as possible? Where does the frame exhibit the least amount of flex? It seems like the bipod should be mounted behind the power wheel. Would this produce a floating barrel like effect?
Resting the rifle’s fore grip on sand bags seems to be the recommended approach. Is this because the foregrip acts to stiffen the frame? Could it be replaced by a trirail to increase the effect? What do y’all think?
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The weak link in the frame is the thin area where the tank attaches and the huge cut out for the breech and scope rail handle.
I don’t disagree with the flex but if you have a tri-rail or a scope bridging (secure rings and 30mm scope) the gap between the two thickest parts of the scope rail wouldn’t that basically eliminate that weakness? Of course if you really exaggerate your hold on the gun it could still.
OK.. I (& likely/hopfully others don’t doubt this.
But; to be concerned to even mension the infine-ites of it…
TO Respect: I’m on to another topic
The weak link in the frame is the thin area where the tank attaches and the huge cut out for the breech and scope rail handle.
Once you put a laser on the gun and look through the scope it is quickly demonstrated.
Hmmm; I’d ruess ta say, you’d know .
Butt; Ya sure what you said make infintesimal degree of effecting “the”difference? The barrel extends from the inner mount in frame, because of that float along with being untouched (for any) from that point on; Then the bi-pod attaching to the frame (separate from the barrel) so having the only area of barrel foundation is near the grip. PIVOT! Sure, but give a break! I guess depending on the temperature is going to be a big part of you facter for the metals to bend?
I do go with Steves equasion often…
With my AF bipod I have moved it up and down the rail and for me the POI changes and you can visually see a change in Laser placement on target.
You can be very accurate with the bipod at the muzzle. But when you lift the gun up and shoulder it without resting on a bipod….what do you find?
For me POI change.
I was thinking the opposite would be true. Think of it like this, if you hold the rear of the gun, any movement side to side or up and down will pivot at the bi-pod. That movement will traslate to an equal movement at the front tip of the gun if the bi-pod is centered. The further forward the pivot point is the less movement the front tip of the gun sees. The further reward the bi-pod is mounted then the front will see more than equal movement. I would personally mount it as far forward as possible.
I tend to agree with Steve671 here. The closer the bi-pod is to the butt end of the gun, the more exaggerated any movement is at the barrels end, making it more difficult to keep it steady. Doesn’t surprise me that Glenn5691 see’s improvement with bi-pod mounted more forward, I’m gonna give it a try and test it myself.
Don’t touch or put pressure on the tank either… 😕
The full float doesn’t apply here since the barrel has two points by which it contacts the frame… 😉
I see, I didn’t think of that.
I’ve got mine mounted right up front and today it was shooting so accurately it was scary. You probably won’t believe this but six out of six shots hit a Q-tip sized branch about 100 yards out. It just kept getting smaller and smaller with each shot. Called my wife in after the third shot because I couldn’t believe what I was seeing. This was with .22 Kodiaks.
Tony builds a mean condor 😀
EDIT: bought a laser range finder last night and confirmed range to be 90 yards with a 30 degree incline.
The downward pressure on the tip of the frame will have an effect on frame/barrel relation.
This can be check with laser.
I think this be true only if the bi-pod doesn’t swivel right? If it swivels then it is just a pivot point I think.
With the bipod mounted at the front it makes for a large lever and fulcrum. Any little force at the rear of the gun works as a large leverage and the bipod works as a fulcrum and the frame will flex ever so slightly upward as the breech cut out flexs downward.
This can be check with laser.
I thought that mounting the bi-pod as far forward as possible would be more accurate for the reasons Steve has just pointed out. But darned if i don’t shoot better with the bi-pod mounted BACK as far as possible…… 😕 😕
I was thinking the opposite would be true. Think of it like this, if you hold the rear of the gun, any movement side to side or up and down will pivot at the bi-pod. That movement will traslate to an equal movement at the front tip of the gun if the bi-pod is centered. The further forward the pivot point is the less movement the front tip of the gun sees. The further reward the bi-pod is mounted then the front will see more than equal movement. I would personally mount it as far forward as possible.
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Glenn,
The tri rail does help. But to get the most accuracy out of these guns the need to be held lightly and cradled.
Any firm pressure can add a variable and give you a POI change.