I need some help here
How do you remove the Breech and Knob?
I want to replace the Orings
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Viewing 9 replies - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
Dead link
Beats me. It worked before I posted it (I checked….), and it worked just now (I just checked again…).
You been paying your ISP bill?
Here’s the home page:
http://www.seventyninedesign.com/shoot/Stealth/home.htm
Or you could try googling ‘Stelth Resource’.
Doug Owen
Yeah, go through the back, not the front. It’s easy, and there’s less stuff to futz with.
Just be real careful when you remove the trigger guard… make sure the little trigger spring doesn’t go MIA.
By the way Rexxwood, is that Jack Elam in your avatar?[/quote]
Thats a secret
There was no spacer on my knob, When I replaced it I just screwed the knob down far enough to clear the top of the frame.
At first I thought the factory cross threaded it because it was so tight all the way out, but after looking at the threads it wasn’t. It was just really tight.
Dead link
To get that cap off the breech knob, I found it works good to use compressed air at the edge of the little cap. Just be careful and don’t shoot it across the room!
Under the breech knob, there is a small delrin (or maybe even cheaper junk plastic) spacer. If you overtighten the knob screw, you will crush this spacer and you will have trouble getting the knob to flip to the right or left after you load it. I remade a spacer out of brass and it is holding up very well.
Good Luck!
By the way Rexxwood, is that Jack Elam in your avatar?
I did it the other way:
http://www.seventyninedesign.com/shoot/Stealth/Breech.htm
It’s easier that way (less stuff to take off and put back on) and it doesn’t disturb your sight settings like pulling the barrel can.
You have to pay attention to indexing the collar back the same way or you have to readjust the butt plate direction as well. But you don’t have to deal with that GD plastic screw (easy to break, ask me….) and all the little fiddly bits around the adjuster.
Doug Owen
Thanks that’s what I thought but its really tight
The knob just screws in and out of the breech. If you need to you can pull the rubber off of the knob and there is a hex head screw in there you can use.
The bolt will just slide out after removing the barrel, spring and hammer. Don’t forget to remove the power wheel and the little PLASTIC screw that holds it in.
Viewing 9 replies - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
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At first I thought the factory cross threaded it because it was so tight all the way out, but after looking at the threads it wasn’t. It was just really tight.
I wouldn’t do that. IIRC without the bushing to protect it, the frame slot can get eaten by the threads on the knob screw….you don’t want that. Plastic on the aluminum is better.
Doug Owen