Q:

NEW Talon SS plus a bit of a problem

Finally got my Talon SS from Pyramyd Air, a BSA Hill Pump and Sportsmatch AOP55 (or Beeman B5039) mount & pellets from SS and the Bushnell 5-15X40 from Optics Planet.

Put it together and took it out to shoot. The adjustable elevation on the AOP55 doesn’t adjust. Followed the directions and even went further in loosening the various locking screws. Anyone have any suggestions? I e-mailed SS also about this.

Screwed up at first – I ordered everything AirForce, rifle, pump, mounts, scope. Then I found this forum and started reading. Yikes, called Pyramyd Air to change order & just get get some pellets, case (Plano double non scope) and the Talon. They changed the order no problem.

I tried JSB Exact 15.9 grain, Crossman Premium 14.3 grain, and Beeman Kodiak 21.1 grain pellets. The rifle seemed to like the Crossman and JSB but not the Kodiak BASED ON ACCURACY.

Power Wheel on 7
Crossman Average 807 fps; Extreme Spread 5, Standard Deviation 2

JSB Avg 786; ES 25; SD 8

KODIAK AVG 732; ES 5; SD 1

Nice and quiet. Most of what I hear seems to be hammer slap. Only seemed to drop a couple hundred psi for 22 shots.

Had a hell of a time filling the tank at first. Pumped and pumped and pumped and pumped, etc. Finally went to bed. Got up the next morning and tried it again. Something not right. Put hand down by adapter, lots of air blowing out. I am so deaf I couldn’t hear it. Tightened that up and took 2 40 pump shots to go from about 2000 to 2900 psi.

All in all I am pretty happy. Will be happier when the elevation adjustment starts to work.

General Chat

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Viewing 12 replies - 1 through 12 (of 12 total)

Good deal LRBMT… You really need to make sure your scope is optically centered like Buzzcat advised….If it isn’t centered your shots will get wider and wider the further out your target is. With the scope still in the rings find an object 100yds out or so and line your scope up on it….Make note of where the elevation reticle is, then turn the scope 180 degs and note where the elevation reticle is then. Turn the elevation knob to move ther reticle to split the difference between those 2 points. You should be able to turn the scope 360 with little or no change in Point of Aim. Then do the same with the windage reticle….Kinda of a pain and takes awhile to do but is well worth the increase in accuracy at farther distances….

Read this if my explaination is not clear

http://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2005/07/how-to-optically-center-scope.html

Thanks guys for the help.

Figured it out & it is fixed.

You know how they say if you find yourself in a hole, quit digging? Well somewhat the same thing with me. I was turning the elevation screw the wrong way part of the time. Plus there appeared to be a bind on the screw. So I went counter clockwise (lefty loosey) with the apparent bind relieved and POP it came loose.

So I now have a functioning adjustable scope mount. Nothing like a good nights sleep to help clear things up.

Now to get out and sight it in.

Bummer about the mount… I’ve got one of those myself and luckily didn’t have any such problems.

It’s a red flag if you’ve got the mount fully elevated and you’re still shooting low. That’d indicate a ton of “barrel droop” which AF rifles just don’t have. As I recall when I set my 5039 up, it took only a couple of turns up from “rock bottom” on elevation, and only a minor tweak to the windage screws to get the gun shooting PDC, then I used the scope knobs to zero from there.

Is your scope optically centered for the initial setup? If it’s not, that could contribute to the problem.

Lastly, how far away are you from the target while dialing-in the mount? Personally, I wouldn’t go any further out than 8 to 10 yards for the initial setup and sight-in. Again, with an optically centered scope, use the mount adjustments to get the pellet strike to within a half-inch or so of the bull on the X/Y axis (or even closer if you’ve got the time and patience), then move out to 20 yards or so and use the scope knobs for the final zero. At that point, you should be pretty-well zeroed for anything out to about 35 yards or so.

Hope that helped…

I hope that works out….It is really frustrating when your gun isn’t operating 100%

Thanks for looking. The elevation adjustment seems to be a single screw that threads into the rear scope mount. You can see the screw and hole on the rear lower scope mount. So I just threw some Kroil on it – hopefully the kroil will loosen whatever is holding the screw from moving and I can get it to turn.

Well I wish I knew more about those mounts….I don’t know what else you can do besides take the mount completely apart and see how it works….could give you and idea as to what is wrong…….You might want to post a messge on the Yellow Forum..I think there would be people there that know more about those mounts….Give them the brand name and thye should be able to give you some help….

Well switching the front to rear didn’t work. I am still too far down. Maybe even worse than it was. If only the elevation adjustment on this mount would work properly.

You’re right…I bought a set of adjustable rings but found that solid mounts worked just fine…I sent the adjustables back…..

Had not even thought of that. The instructions say the rear is where I have it. If it is out of kilter reversing it might just work until I get a working elevation screw. I would hate to spend $67 and not have the damn thing work.

So you have turned the elevation knob all the way in the up direction? You might try taking the scope and mount off and turn the mount around so that what is the front now is in the back and the back is in the front. Make sure you don’t get it mixed up and put it back on the same way…It looks like the elevation adjustment screws are either under the base or inside the rings..It’s hard to tell from the picture….

It is shooting lower by about 1.5″ at 25 yards with all the elevation I can get out of the scope

Is your rifle is shooting higher or lower than your scope elevation can adjust for?

Viewing 12 replies - 1 through 12 (of 12 total)

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