Q:

New Tool AA S410 Arrived Last Friday

Last Friday I finally got my Air Arms s410 from Steve at Pomona Air Guns. The gun was well wrapped and looks nice.

Once I got it I quickly threw a scope on it and started shooting.
My range was limited to 20 yards and low power (JSB 16gr 392Fps)

First Kill less than 30 minutes

I was zeroing the gun and a fly landed on the edge of my target?.

I haven’t seen a fly in the back yard in ages. I placed the scope on the target and measured 3 mill dots of drop. Moved to the fly and held up 3 dots, then let him have it!

The next morning I pimped it out.

That afternoon went out to a vineyard 8 miles from my house to properly site it in and see what it could do.

I shot it mainly to mark my elevation turret at various yardages. It was late afternoon and the wind was kicking up gusting from 4 – 10 o clock.

I zeroed at 50 yards, then went to 65,75,85,95, and 100 yards marking my scope as I went.

I took a few minutes to see what it would do at 100 yards.

I was impressed, that even with wind, I was able to shoot the following 3 10 shot groups at 100 yards.

Final notes:
I am very happy with the gun, and the way I chose to set it up for long range squirrel hunting. With my large target knob when zeroed at 50 yards I can reach out to 100 yards with just under one full turn of the elevation wheel.

On Wednesday night I was practicing off hand shooting in the garage. I want to practice and build up my muscles for the early summer squirrel shooting season. I moved my trap from the back yard to the garage to shoot indoors. It seems that some ants thought the many holes in the duct seal would make a great home.

Once I started shooting they started to move and it was game on…

The squirrels don’t stand a chance this year….

roger

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Viewing 11 replies - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)

NICE RIG sacshooter. I really need to get out and shoot mine 😳 Thanks for the posting 😀

quote Rhoderman:

To remove the shroud, you take off the scope and find the setscrew in from the top at the back end of the shroud. Take it all the way out and slide the shroud forward. Again, make sure you take the setscrew all the way out. The inside of the shroud has baffles at the front, but I couldn’t figure out how to get them out without damage.

Yours must be a different design. On mine, and Im pretty sure Sacshooters, you have to unscrew the tube from the action. I just took the barrel band off, and used a rubber strap wrench on it being VERY CAREFUL not to bend the tube. The tube doesnt like to turn easily at first.

Heres a website with info on removing the shroud and internals. You have to scroll down to see the info though.
http://swiftairgunswork.blogspot.com/

quote Rhoderman:

One of the best mods I did for mine was to the trigger. I used thin flat washers as shims to minimize side movement. I polished all the contact surfaces and squared and polished the sear. If your trigger is smooth and light, your groups will tighten up.

I also did this, but really didnt have much difference in the trigger afterwards. The previous owner had already polished up the parts, but I had to add the washers. Does improve the alignment, but didnt seem to change feel much TBH.

quote Rhoderman:

I found mine shoots best groups at 3/4 power and JSB Exacts. Mine’s a .22 cal. Full power causes the groups to open up considerably. My range is about 60 yards max in my yard. If I could get 60 yard groups as good as your 100 yard groups, I’d be stoked! I shoot from a table with a Caldwell bag.

Mine seems to shoot very well at full power, occasionally shooting a bad group, if you consider 7/8″ @ 50 yards bad.
18.1 gr JSB and 15.8 JSB both shoot extremely well, averaging right at .5 @ 50 yards. 18.1s at 900fps, and 15.8s at 920.
Kodiaks for whatever reason are not very consistent, shoot around 850fps and group around .75 with the more that occasional flyer.
JSB Predators string side to side about .75, elevation is almost line-straight.

Eunjins… forget them LOL. All they do is around 1″ but I have to replace the breech seal every time I shoot with them. They were moving around 770fps if I remember right.

I will get some pics together by next weekend. The shroud I built is nothing special, the tube would be hard to find as I made it myself. But all the internals were bought at ACE.
The hardest part was getting the bushings machined to align the tube.

I am having a blodnob type core made one day. I already have the .75 delrin tube and a few peices of alu.

Sweet looking gun you got there , i love my carbine had the erb but it was to big for me . Moved to the carbine and i’am real happy. Here’s some groups from 33 yds in a light wind . it has many starlings and 2 raccoons in the bag already in a few weeks

I accidentally filled mine up with goo-gone once. I was running patches through from the front and they were getting squeegied off and the goo-gone was running down inside the shroud. The first shot, i was in a big cloud of goo-gone mist! That sucked!!

To remove the shroud, you take off the scope and find the setscrew in from the top at the back end of the shroud. Take it all the way out and slide the shroud forward. Again, make sure you take the setscrew all the way out. The inside of the shroud has baffles at the front, but I couldn’t figure out how to get them out without damage.

One of the best mods I did for mine was to the trigger. I used thin flat washers as shims to minimize side movement. I polished all the contact surfaces and squared and polished the sear. If your trigger is smooth and light, your groups will tighten up.

I found mine shoots best groups at 3/4 power and JSB Exacts. Mine’s a .22 cal. Full power causes the groups to open up considerably. My range is about 60 yards max in my yard. If I could get 60 yard groups as good as your 100 yard groups, I’d be stoked! I shoot from a table with a Caldwell bag.

[ RiffRaff]

I haven’t thought about glass bedding it, I saw two small pieces of foam pad when I removed the stock at the front.

What I want to do is learn the proper way to remove the shroud, so I can clean up the parts inside. This rifle is going to be a workhorse, and I want to learn what parts I need to have on hand for repairs in the field if needed. Any help would be appreciated.

The only regret about this rifle so far is not getting the thumbhole stock. I didn’t do it because it is going to be used and abused. I already have a few marks on the stock from the springs on the Harris bipod. Oh well, like the SS I don’t plan on selling it.

Roger

Went out again today.

More 100 yard groups only a slight wind from 5 -11 o clock. I was shooting prone using a bipod.

Ok if you are getting old and have a belly, this is not comfortable anymore.

I ended the day shooting 50 yards prone, getting tired. I learned something the gun likes to be held firm. Up to this point even in the 100 yard groups, I was holding it soft like the SS. I learned and I think I can improve next time.

crap, I pulled the fifth shot, this was going to be a great group. It was getting close to dusk and a mosquito sounded like it was trying to land on my neck. Oh well I suck, better luck next time.

Things I learned about my New S410:

1. Firm hold is ok, don’t hold like a Talon SS

2. Don’t shoot at 100 when the gun reads about 125-130 bar, the POI falls fast past 25 shots at 100 yards.

3. Charging over 200 bar, it sounds quieter, but it’sFPS is all over the place.

4. The 100 yard groups you saw were the best of 11 attempts..

5. I need to map this rifle on the crony, to better understand what is happening at 85- 100 yards, and find the right shot curve. Then go back and re plot my target turret, once I find the sweet spot for fills and shots on full power.

6. I will not shoot at half or 3/4 power or I will no longer be able to reach from a 50 yard zero out to 100 yards within one full turn of the turret( I like that part way too much)

7.I need to find a eye piece that shields excessive light from coming in. I am seeing sun flairs on the scope, and it is bugging me. The scope may need to go if I can’t solve this with an eye piece.
( Can anyone point me in the right direction?)

[Rhoderman] sending you a PM

Thanks,

Roger

Hey Riff.
When you post pics of your carbon fiber shroud, can you throw in a couple of the glass bedded stock? Please?

And Sacshooter,
I like the nice round holes in your targets. Backerboard or something?
I have an older S410ERB in .22 that puts a smile on my face every time I use it. It can sit in the safe for a month or two, I pull it out, load a pellet, and wham, another distant rabbit jumps about 2 feet in the air and lands without moving. 🙂

True YN, but finding this Hughes stuff to be inconsistent already.

Going to have to wait.

Nice sac – Makes me want to take mine out

quote RiffRaff:

I also built a new slightly shorter, fatter, and quieter shroud. .75ID purpose built carbon tube (rolled it myself). Its quieter but I think the original tube would work just as well if I built better baffles for it. The original tube ID is .630 and carefully measured 5.8″ washers fit in there, but be careful of jamming them.

I think I like to tinker… 🙄

Now that you have hi-speed there’s no excuse for no pics !

Beautiful setup ya got there!

Awesome writeup, and pretty nice results.

The more I shoot mine the more like it. Solid rifles, but still tweakable LOL.

I made a few improvements like glass bedding the beech stock. I was noticing mine was flexing a bit, and when I tightened the stock bolt it was feeling kind of soft. Bedding was done by filling the gauge and trigger cutouts with clay, then epoxying a 1.25″ diameter aluminum tube into the stock using a bedding kit. I just clamped the tube into the stock until the epoxy cured.
After it was cured, I removed the tube then free floated the tube channel from the fore-end to just ahead of the gauge opening. With only a single bolt holding it into the stock, I wanted an equal distance on both sides of the bolt hole bedded.
The action bolts in super snug, no mushy feeling, and this made the gun super happy.

I also built a new slightly shorter, fatter, and quieter shroud. .75ID purpose built carbon tube (rolled it myself). Its quieter but I think the original tube would work just as well if I built better baffles for it. The original tube ID is .630 and carefully measured 5.8″ washers fit in there, but be careful of jamming them.

I think I like to tinker… 🙄

Viewing 11 replies - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)

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