AA S410 mods

I spoke about these mods in sacshooters thread here:
http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7011

Pictures were requested, so here they are.

First, I glass bedded the stock and action. This was done by removing the action from the stock, and filling all the openings (guage, stock bolt hole and trigger group hole) with clay.

Then I aquired a 1.25″ aluminum tube, and coated it with the release agent from a Brownells Acraglas kit. Then I mixed the glass, poured it into the stock, and clamped the aluminum tube into the stock. The 3 clamps were applied on the grip end, right above the bolt hole and between them. This was to keep the action level and keep the pressure vessel as high in the channel as possible.

Once it was cured, I popped the tube out, and cleaned the clay out of the holes. Some minor trimming was needed around the edges of the holes.

After testing, I relieved the channel where the tank lays, so the tank is free floating.
The result

The pic shows some dots in the channel, these were drill holes I put in to give the layer of epoxy something to grip. There are more in the unrelieved area.

Closer of the action

I pulled my old shroud off to fix a failed o-ring, and decided once it was apart to build another shroud for it.

I rolled a carbon tube at work using some scrap material. This is 2×2 Twill woven carbon. It is .75″ID and .815OD, thin walled but still extremely strong. This exact layup is used for kayak paddle shafts.
The tube weighs about 3 oz.

I then bought some brass bushings, .75″ OD and .5″ ID, and some more .5″ OD x .25″ID. These were 1″ long. Pressed them together, then machined the ID to .393 and .479. Cut them to .375″ in length.

The .375″ was fluted deeply to allow air to pass around it, and was pushed into the tube about 8″. The .479 was fluted the same, and pushed .25″ into the other end. These served as alignment bushings for the tube. The barrel diameter is .478 with a .392 section at the muzzle.

I installed the tube over the barrel, and when the .393 bushing went over the barrel, the shroud had to be pushed on about another inch to position the bushing. (if you remove your shroud, you will understand what I mean).

The shroud tube and .479 bushing was drilled and tapped. A 10/32 grub screw was used to hold the shroud onto the barrel from the breech end. The screw can just be seen below the scope.

Baffles were created by using special washers I found at ACE and McMaster Carr. The thick washer near the bushings in the pic were from ACE, the thinner ones have a .281 hole in them, and came from McMaster.
The springs came from ACE.

Muzzle end. This is a test piece, so some of my install methods are in testing. The barrel band does not fit this tube, so I created one of sorts from a windsurfing mast ferrule. A thin section was glued to the shroud, and grub screws hold it in place. The thin beads of silicone are keeping it from rotating out of alignment while the glue dried. I havent pulled the silicone off yet, but it will come off easily (I tested in an inconspicuous spot LOL)
I have a few chunks of delrin that will make nice outer keepers and a barrel band for the tube. I will be making them when I make the next shroud.

The endcap is another brash bushing, the flange is ground to the OD of the tube and painted black. I already chipped the paint by pulling it apart once to fix a clipping issue.

No pictures of the trigger/washer setup. I didnt want to pull all that apart again.