MIL dot clicks =
Hey, It’s always been (right?) that ya may have to raise the crosshair about 2 MIL. or so at 80 or so yards. It seems though in a recolection, that if a target is XX distance, that the shooter clicks the MIL. dial to bring the crosshair to center for that shot distance. When completed, click back to zero. Right? Well, how many clicks equils how much distance? A formula for this?
Feed back some numbers please. I’m not the only one wondering things…
ThanX ➡
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Ok, thanks for the help buddy!
so are those your holdover numbers for those ranges? with a 40 yard zero correct?
65 (yards)+ 1 mil Holdover (Meaning cross hairs 1 mildot above the target)
60 (yrds) + .75 <—-Hold over
55 (yrds + .50
50 (yrds + .25
45 (yrds 0.00
40 (yrds -.25 <—-Hold under
35 (yds -.50
30 (yds -.25
25 (yds 0.00
There will always be 2 points at which the scope is zeroed…
Because the pellet travels in an arc….If at 25yds it is zero then
as it looses velocity and gravity pulls it down it will again have another
zero point mostly depending on velocity….
Check out this site…It has a ton of info and animated demos.
It really helped me. I need to see things before I can really
understand how they work….
http://www.arld1.com/
Im getting it ….slowly lol.
so are those your holdover numbers for those ranges? with a 40 yard zero correct?
65 (yards)+ 1 mil Holdover (Meaning cross hairs 1 mildot above the target)
60 (yrds)+ .75
55 (yrds+ .50
50 (yrds+ .25
45 (yrds0.00
40 (yrds- .25
Mr-lama is right…Once you have that information you can put it in
your computer using a font of about 8 and print it out. Then fix it
inside the rear flip up lens cap on your scope or put
it between 2 pieces of clear packing tape and tape
it to the gun or put it in you pocket…Quick reference.
ie:
65 + 1 mil Holdover (Meaning cross hairs 1 mildot above the target)
60 + .75
55 + .50
50 + .25
45 0.00
40 – .25 and so on….Depending on how you look at it you can
I see what your saying.
In order to move your POI , does this seem correct to you?:
(100 yards)use quarters
to move impact@ .25 100 yards it takes 4 clicks or 1 MOA(x2 @50yds x4@25yds)
to move impact @ .50 inch at 100 yards takes 8 clicks or 2 MOA (x2 @50yds x4@25yds)
to move impact @ 1 inch @ 100 yards it takes 16 clicks or 4 MOA.(x2 @50yds x4@25yds)
(50 yards)use eighths ‘s (or multiply 100 yard answer by 2)
to move impact .25 @50 yards 8 clicks or 2 MOA
to move impact .5 @ 50 yards its 16 clicks or 4 MOA
to move impact 1 inch @50 yards it’s 32 clicks or 8 MOA
(25 yards)use sixteenths (or multiply 100 yard answer by 4)
to move impact .25 @25 yards 16 clicks or 4 MOA
to move impact .5 @25 yards 32 clicks or 8 MOA
to move impact 1 inch @25yards 64 clicks or 16 MOA
The easy way to do it is sight the scope in, then move the target out to a different range, aim with the center of the crosshair, and shoot a few shots. Then just memovize around which dot the pellets hit, and that’s where you should aim for then on.
But using the mil. Dot’s for both range estimation, and your sighting point works very fast.
Hey Mike , How do you mean its fast? Im trying to do all this math in my mellon to figure the range .
Do you have an easyier process , or way to do it? to me it seems to take a little time to figure out .
still learning . just haveing some basic problems .
😀
\ Hey! OK, OK; Out of these replies, I got THE answersI wanted\needed! Cool! And, Thanx to you all that gave input! Excellent information people. I thank YOU again.
Matthius ➡
One thing to remember on your click values when making adjustments, all “clicks” on scopes are the value at 100 yards.
If your target is closer or farther away than 100yards your clicks will not be 1/8, 1/4 inch, etc. or what ever the value is for your particular scope.
If your scope has 1/4 MOA clicks and your target is at 50 yards each click will only be 1/8 inch in elevation/windage change, 1/16 inch at 25 yards and so on.
And, if your scope has 1/4 MOA clicks and you shoot cartridge guns and your target is at 200 yards each click will change elevation/windage 1/2 inch, 300 yards 3/4 inch and so on.
This is why most scopes with mildot reticles have 30mm main tubes, it gives you more adjustment range…has nothing to do with amount of light that passes thru the scope.
Yn kinda has it right, but not quite.
1 mil at 100 yards is 3.6″
BUT
When you are clicking the knobs on a scope, it is measured in minutes of angle (moa) not mils. 1 moa at 100 yards is 1.047″. So when you have a scope that says it moves the reticule 1/4 moa at 100 yards, that means every click moves the bullet impact roughly 1/4″ at 100 yards. So to move it 1″, you want to make it click 4 times.
Same thing if a scope says 1/8 moa adjustments, 1 click is about 1/8″ at 100 yards, and 8 clicks moves it 1″.
That .047 does not factor in unless you are doing very long range precision stuff, so you won’t need to worry about that.
Now what YN is talking about with the mils, is the little dots on the cross hairs (only if you have a mil-dot scope). What you do is calculate the amount of drop at a certain range, and line it up correctly to the dots. For example, you have your gun sighted in at 25 yards, and you know at 60 yards it drops 4″. You simply hold the first dot below the cross hairs on what you want to hit.
Now what screws all of this up is a cheap scope. Some of the cheap ones will say 1/4 moa adjustments, but every click is a little different, some will move it more, and some less than what it is supposed to.
Thank you for your input all.
Mike- You hit my question right on. I understand that thinking and for adjusting cross hair at only long distance (with one of ours I’d say 120 yard is long) and such. I’m getting a new rangefinder at my door, about Wed. Want to mount that on my scope, then adjst of holdover or\ by the amount of MIL. Camo LRand camo on my gun’ll look good & function well.
➡
You don’t have to move the cross hair unless at very long ranges. You can use the mil’s on the reticle it’s self just fine. A heck of a lot faster! 😀
Same for windage.
Changing the cross hair position is for long shooting to a fixed position. If you target isn’t stationary, it can be a problem. More importantly, when shooting in low light (where a lot of hunting happens), you can’t see the numbers on the turret anyway.
The Mil dot ret. is very versatile. Here’s an example.
My Condor valved SS with 18″ bbl is set up at 990 fps right now using .22 Kod’s.
50 yds. Dead on cross hair. 75-80 yards first mil. at 10 power. 100 yds very slightly past 2 mil. ( I put the #2 mil Dot just on top of the target X.. (Or bushy tails head) 120 yards, 3Mil.
If I go to 14x on my scope, it changes to 4 mil. at 120.
Still learning it. This new Zeiss is very repeatable. So the turrets work very well. But using the mil. Dot’s for both range estimation, and your sighting point works very fast.
at 14x a 15-20 mph side wind at 100 yrd’s is right at 2 mil’s. A mil dot can really help in your Kentucky windage! 😀
Mike
Buy the Mildot Master if you really want to use the full potential of your mildot scope, assuming you have a quality scope with a true mildot reticule.
Information from the site go to http://www.mildot.com
You can also buy it from
http://www.swfa.com/c-294-mil-dot-master.aspx
and it’s currently on sale at
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=131691
Depends on the scope.
1 Mil at 100 yards = 3.6 inches
If you have a 1/8″ click scope (meaning the scope is “supposed” to move the reticle 1/8″ at 100 yards) then you would need to do 8 x 3.6 = 28.8 to move 1 mil.
a 1/4″ click scope would need 14.4 clicks to move 1 mil.
On a mil dot scope the mil dots only equal an actual mil at a specified magnification on zoom scope’s – I think its usually 10x or max magnification, should say in the manual. On some scopes they are just dots an even distance and do not represent an actual milliradian.
BUT it all depends on the quality of the scope – the click value is an approximation and I also believe the value of a click changes along the range of a scope’s adjustment.
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No problem…
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