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Viewing 8 replies - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)
buster, I am not afraid of working on my rifle and
I have done everything there is to do except fool
around with the air tank, valve, and regulator….
You are more than welcome to do any mod you
want and you have the same resources available
that we do…I just know where my limits are and
fooling with HPA is past my capabilities…..When I
was younger I would have thrown all caution to the
wind and done whatever I thought made sense but
I have gotten myself into too much trouble using that
mentality and I CHOOSE not to do that anymore….I
can buy what I need from someone that knows exactly
what they are doing and save myself a trip to the
emergency room while my blown off hand follows me
in the other ambulance in an ice cooler….
Let us know how it comes out…..If you can still type…
Just remember, if things go wrong, we warned you……
Here is a good start if you just have to do it…
http://www.geocities.com/lea_wu/sterling/velo_idx.htm
well some people arent that skilled and not safety concerned but i am and as simple of a mod of rearenge some washers or ad some washers to it not drilling or making it adjustable well i guess that nowbody hear knows how to do it, and if its about safety then why are there post of modding the talon valve this is a mods section thanks
I did a lot of reading and decided to let Airhog do the work….
I think DKOwen has a very valid point…
There are no “do overs” when you hand gets blown off…
Well said Doug
Good job
Walter…
I’d tread lightly here, guys. The basic idea is to increase the load on the spring.
You see such regulators work by letting gas into a chamber (in this case at the top of the body, just under the ASA fitting) which has a piston or diaphram with a spring behind it to sense the pressure (in this case the spring is under the upper cap, below the piston), the pressure on the spring side being the reference pressure (in this case local atmosphere. When you have enough PSI (times the area of the piston) to overcome the spring a valve at the bottom (top of the tank, leading to the high pressure air source) closes to stop the pressure rise.
Make the spring stronger (by adding shims typically) and that magic pressure is higher. Put a screw behind it (like on a gas welder) and it’s adjustable from the outside.
However, push it too far (and you don’t know how far that really is unless you really know what you’re doing with that regulator) and the spring can become coilbound (or have other issues) before the valve fully closes. The result is you suddenly jump from say 1500 psi to full tank pressure without warning.
If the blow out safety works while your shooting is done for the day, a change of shorts should put you right. If it doesn’t blow, real fun could start.
High pressure air is dangerous. Consider all the work you put in on that pump to fill the tank, that can all come back in an instant. Guys get seriously messed up messing with it. If you’ve other plans for your fingers and eyesight, you might consider farming such stuff out to the experts?
Doug Owen
anybody have pictures of the arangement?
It has something to do with changing the arrangement of the washers inside…..You could call John at jdsairman.com
732-500-7270
Viewing 8 replies - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)
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perhaps study the design and make careful measurements until you understand teh design and what exactly is going on inside the regulator.
Then from a position of knowledge and understanding decide if adjusting the reg output pressure is something you are prepared to do.
When someone oversimplifies a complex device with critical dimensions as part of the design it makes me think that such a person is not prepared to appreciate the function of that device.
Be safe
any Qs fire away 🙂