Cleaning and replacing O Rings?
Hi There… 8)
I removed the tank from my Talon. And I ran a Dewy Rod .22 cal with a bore mop and some .22 Patches with some Airgin Solvent I bought from Straight Shooters. The Bore was dirty! But now it is cleaner.
My main question is … after puting a dab of Diver’s Silacone greese on the barrel with a tooth pick in front of the hammer and on the Tank Top Hat to cover the rear O ring. Those two O rings…
I can see a little black residue from the those rubber O rings on the Top Hat a bit so I am wondering if maybe it could use some fresh rubber there. ❓
Anthony .266 modified my Talon about 3 years ago or more. So cleaning and any replacing of O rings and steps to follow to just removing the barrel and ..then what? we have to remove the power valve to get to it?
Before it will all come out and then I could probably to to my local Dive shop and get the same O rings that are there?
And I have heard of guys talk about their Top Hat setting. ❓
I have no idea how to adjust that and Mr. 266 probably did that anyway.
But I would like to understand it and know how to get it where I would like or to tinker with but I don’t want to rip my face off with that 3000psi tank. 😯
I cleaned it-Charged it-Placed a dab of Silacone greese to two points on either side of my Brass Hammer that Mr.266 rebuilt for me.
And I have been meaning to clock it with the CP’s 14 grain or so with my Blue Chrony.
Any links or advice to what you guys do maintain our cool air machines?
Thanks
Slayer.
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Viewing 8 replies - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)
dont know if i’m doing it right but i have removed my breech from the front by just unscrewing the bolt handle from the breech, then pulling the trigger while i push the breech forward over the sear. i push it back in the same way when done with the o-rings.
Here’s a step-by-step:
http://www.stealthresource.org/Breech.htm
The instructions don’t mention that you need to take the trigger guard off to get to the bottle collar screw, so you should also review (and print out) the trigger assy. schematic for reference, cuz you’ll need to put it back together during reassembly. Go slow when you first take the trigger guard off. There’s a plate that holds down the little springs in the trigger assembly underneath. They’re under a bit of compression and will tend to jump out and roll away if you’re not prepared for it.
Thanks
Those O rings on that auction… These are the ones we want even after Mr.266 modified it? There not thicker or something?
Im just making sure were on the same page. 😳
You can change the front O-ring without taking it apart but I don’t know how you could change the rear without taking it apart.
I have those O-rings and they are the same…I measured them with calipers…
Ok…The hammer comes out? I don’t need to take it all apart to change the front O ring and the Back?
Thanks
Those O rings on that auction… These are the ones we want even after Mr.266 modified it? There not thicker or something?
Im just making sure were on the same page. 😳
To add from my previous comment, you don’t need to remove the barrel, etc. to change the o-rings. You can go in from the back of the gun.
There are people here who replace the breech o-rings EVERY year, whether they need it or not. Preventative maintenance and peace of mind.
After three years, it couldn’t hurt to replace ’em. You need 90 durometer o-rings. The job is so much easier than it sounds… when I laid my gun out to change out the o-rings for the first time, you woulda thought I was taking my grandmother’s appendix out. 😆
After I got things apart, it was obvious that it was child’s play. Easy Peasy, Lemon Squeezy.
I believe there’s a thread in the Quick Ref forum.
Tool-wise, you’ll want a cheapo steel dental pick. Makes removal of the old ones easier.
And don’t spare the silicone when you install the new ones. Give ’em a good massage with the stuff.
Viewing 8 replies - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)
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That is correct….
Slide the breech, the hammer, the hammer spring,
and the Power Wheel into the frame…
Make sure the white o-rings are there..
One goes in front of the power wheel and the other
goes behind the PW between the pw and the barrel bushing…
Push the barrel in slowly until you feel some resistance,
then pull the trigger.
Once you get the breech and hammer past the sear,
then screw the cocking knob into the breech and screw the
PW indicator screw into the PW.
Replace the barrel set screws and the moderator and you’re done…