This is how accurate my 18" Condor can be… Pictures
I decided to see how accurate my 18″ barrel Condor is and this is what my results are:
My setup:
– 18″ Condor .22cal with Hi-Flo tank and a homemade frame extender.
– Tank start fill was 2600psi (according to the AF scuba fill adapter gauge) and PW @ 4-1
– Beeman Kodiak 21.1gr pellets
– Average MV 950fsp
– Target placed out to 25 yards
– 7 target, 5 shot per target
– Sunny, 17*C, no wind
– Prone position, Front foregrip supported with a shooting sandbag
– My grip on the Condor was very light, just enough hold to squeeze the trigger. My cheek just barely rested on the tank.
– My best 5 shot group was 0.27″ as seen in target #6, this is also when I refilled the tank back to 2600psi 8)
All Replies
I think sand bags allow for more minute adjustments, just a squeeze to move you to your POI.
Jerry quote: “You might be well served with a bi-pod instead of the sand bag.”
I was just wondering about the differences, if any, (Accuracy wise) between shooting off sand bags, vs Bi pod. Especially when I see so many FT shooters using bags as a rest…. if there’s no difference, wouldn’t it be easier just to clip a bi pod to the gun than bring sand bags? Or maybe some just don’t want to deal with attachments, adapters, drilling in stock, ect with the higher dollar guns.
I’d say you’re doing pretty good! If you want to take it up a notch there are a couple things to consider: Technique and equipment.
As far as technique goes, I can see you’re alredy thinking of that as you mentioned your hold. I’d suggest you try a hold where you use your third through forth fingers to hold the grip a little firmer and pull into your shoulder with them while consciously disassociating your trigger finger from the rest of your hand. I’d also suggest using your other hand to stabalize the butt and hold it against your shoulder. These techniques will help prevent rotation of the gun concurrent with recoil. I would also avoid looking for your hit until after you hear the impact. It’s kinda like not watching your put until it is almoist to the cup. Don’t let anything you do after a shot affect a proper follow through.
Equipment: You might be well served with a bi-pod instead of the sand bag. The bi-pod can do two things for you; it can put the weight of the front of the gun in the same place for every shot and it can help with cant before and during the shot. I would recommend a bi-pod that does not swivel. If you’re shooting paper, you don’t need a lot of side to side play. You can always move the front of the gun anyway. The firmer hold of a non-swiviling bi-pod will resist cant during the firing cycle. It’s not usually critcal for small bores but between shots, tilt the gun to lift one leg of the bi-pod and relieve any tension. This helps every shot start with the same set-up anf forces on the gun.
Scope; make sure you have the diopter set right on your scope. Aim at a balnck wall and glance into the scope. Are the cross hairs instantly in focus? Don’t dwell on them as you eye will rapidly adjust. Work the adjustment until you know it is right. You’ll relieve eye strain and reduce fatigue during range sessions this way leading to better results.
Yeah what GTBJ said—in the gallery I posted some groups at 25yds—I shoot off the AF bipod prone with pillows proping me up– I know my shooting can be better but as you see some of those target dots have 10 or more shots thru them—I hit a bug on one of those target cards you may see the faint splatter mark- on that same card I put 15 shots thru the target dot next to the bug splatter. You do kinda have to let the zone come on -cant really force it-thats when you wear yourself out. your groups look great…–I blame my optics–rws 4-12×50 ao 30mm-$79.00 scope. 😆
I don’t think your clipping, those groups are too constant for that to be happing, most likely just a twitch, deformed pellet or a canted gun, I was doing the old canted gun thing yesterday quite a bit for some reason and it took me a bit to realize it, once I started paying attention my groups tightened back up 😉
how is a man ment to read a post with that avarta 8) 8) 8) 8)
check your frame extender and make
sure it is not clipping….Also concentrate on keeping the cross hairs
on target until you hear the pellet hit…A lot of flyers are due to a
switch when the gun goes off. You may also try different amounts
of pressure in your gripping the rifle…Go from one extreme to the
other and keep notes….I think you will find that the more familiar
you become with that gun the better it will shoot….Last but not least….
Expect to hit what you’re aiming at before you squeeze
the trigger…Shooting IMO is 10% physical and 90% mental….
Removing the frame extender may result in my neighbours calling the police. I have been doing regular inspections on the frame extender by giving it a quick visual and I don’t feel or hear any of the pellets clipping.
I use to be heavily into long range bench rest shooting with my .308… a long time ago and I forgot how mentally tiring it can be. All I can say is after shooting those 35 shots I was mentally tired.
I feel your pain ROK. I get only get about 27 yrds, if I shoot with my back against the front door in my house, thru the living room, kitchen, and bedroom, going out the bedroom window to the back of the backyard! 😡
I only wish I had 40 yards to play with. 25 yards is all I have from my rec room out the patio door and down to the back fence of my back yard.
ROC if you can, shoot the gun with the fram extender off to double
check your frame extender and make
sure it is not clipping….Also concentrate on keeping the cross hairs
on target until you hear the pellet hit…A lot of flyers are due to a
switch when the gun goes off. You may also try different amounts
of pressure in your gripping the rifle…Go from one extreme to the
other and keep notes….I think you will find that the more familiar
you become with that gun the better it will shoot….Last but not least….
Expect to hit what you’re aiming at before you squeeze
the trigger…Shooting IMO is 10% physical and 90% mental….
nice shooting boys 8)
25 yards doesn’t really tell you a whole lot…..
If you wern’t getting groups at least that tight, you know theres a big problem!!!
Find a bit more room 😀
40 yards is my minimum to test.
Heres some me and Lang shot today…
I’m thinking it is because we have no way to be consistent with the lock up of the tank to the gun. It is different every time we fill.
CTC shows how accurate the gun is. A bulls eye is sight adjustment only. Nothing else when testing. . No amount of adjusting will make an inaccurate gun shoot. If the CTC isn’t good, adjusting the sight is a waste of time. If the CTC is great, you have a shooter. All that is left is sight adjustment.
To adjust for precise bulls eye on different guns when testing for accuracy is a huge waste of time. All we want to know is can the gun shoot. Now if it is your gun, and getting it ready for business, by all means, get her sighted in right. When a customer brings me a gun and wants it tested, I am only wanting to know if his gun can group. I use my own scopes. It is up to him to sight the gun in for him.
Also remember. There is often a different poi for different shooters with the same gun. So the gun usually has to be sighted for the shooter.So if I sight it in to my eyes and hold, it probably wouldn’t be correct for the customer. That an he will be using his scope. Not mine. This also helps eliminate the scope as the culprit of the shifting poi if any.
I have a scope here with killer optics, that changes the poi when you replace the turret caps. It appears to be dead on. You finish the shooting session, replace the caps, and whamo! It’s off again. It is an older
Simmons WA with AO.
I now test only with Zeiss. It never fails. Dead on adjustments each and every time,,
Mike
Just saying… I’ve never understood how the CTC thing matters a lick unless the rounds are sitting smack dab on the bull.
Not knockin’ ya Roc, that’s some good shooting.
I’ve just always wondered why CTC trumps bullseyes.
Maybe that’s why I hate Gaylord’s reviews. 😆
I know what you mean and I like #3 as well.
But love the CTC of #6 that after the 5th shot I wet my undies 😆
The shift in POI after I refill or begin shooting again the next time will still be a mystery to me. #1 should have been a bulls eye at least that was what it was the last time I shot the Condor but today it ended up shooting a little low and to the right.
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Me and Pablo were chewing up rabbits last night at 100yds +/- 5yds. My longest kill was at 97yds, his was at 107yds (prone with bipod). On saturday we finally established just how critical the MV is on these pellets (21-grain Bisley Magnums). At anything up to 960fps they are tack-drivers, hit 970+ and they go to shit. We tuned our guns down to the 950s, Pab has to go off a 2600psi fill and gets 40+ shots at 950-ish, I can go from 2900psi with my valve and was still getting 950s at shot 35.
My group above was high because I didn’t spot I’d neglected to re-center my turret before the first shot. After that I went for the group. At 40yds we can both pretty much obliterate the bull all day long. 2″ groups at 100yds ditto (from prone with bipod). The Talon is flawless for accuracy, so long as all the mechanical parameters are right. Then it’s just down to technique, which pretty much anyone can aquire with patience and practice. It’s not rocket-science, just relax, hold the rifle firmly but not tightly and control your breathing and make sure neither the rifle nor yourself are physically stressed. Then make sure you know the range if it’s outside your flat-trajectory kill-zone. We’ve found that Chairgun is way out of whack for that, you absolutely have to take your rifle to your own range and establish exactly what it’s doing at 5-yard increments right out to as far as possible. Then you can make your own turret-lable and know it’s as spot-on as it can be. 😀