Q:

I have the most consistant gun out there…NOT!

look at this shot string… 😡 👿

Fill Pressure 2800…PW 8.1 using crosman CPs

Shot # Speed
1- 800
2- 789.9
3- 783.2
4- 787.2
5- 807.9
6- 803.4
7- 792.6
8- 1126
9- 1130
10- 1097
11- 1129
12- 773
13- 779.5
14- 347.8 (low thud, not an error)
15- 270 (low thud not an error)
16- 796
17- 790
18- 784.6
19- 232.6 (low thud, not an error)
20- 801.7
21- 796.1
22- 532
23- 799.5
24- 800.2
25- 799.3
26- 788.3
27- 786.2
28- 773.7
29- 993.5
30- 785.7
31- 780.3
32- 778.1
33- 781.9
34- 764.5
35- 787.6
36- 781.9
37- -ERR-
39- 795.3
40- 781.2

Ending pressure…no Idea…

what do I do now…. ❓ ❓ ❓

General Chat

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Viewing 14 replies - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)

Sounds good…I’ll give it a try.
Thx

quote Airgunner:

I sprayed the lube on the barrel and slid the breech block onto it (after it dried) and it makes that sound…you know, when you go against the grain or something…I guess it is the tool marks on the barrel that it is rubbing against…it doesn’t sound real smooth, kinda like a ‘vwip, vwip’ sound. I gotta figure out how I can spin the barrel to get rid of those ridges and polish it up nice and shiny like.

Any ideas on how I can do that??

I could put it in my 1/2″ drill, but how do I move the barrel bushing to fit it deeper into the chuck???

This is the way I did it. I put some painters tape on the breech end
of the barrel and chucked it up in the drill….I used 400grit sand
paper and polished it then used valve grinding paste and then
white compound paste. The breech doesn’t ride on the end of the
barrel so there is no need to polish it where the drill is holding
it….

I sprayed the lube on the barrel and slid the breech block onto it (after it dried) and it makes that sound…you know, when you go against the grain or something…I guess it is the tool marks on the barrel that it is rubbing against…it doesn’t sound real smooth, kinda like a ‘vwip, vwip’ sound. I gotta figure out how I can spin the barrel to get rid of those ridges and polish it up nice and shiny like.

Any ideas on how I can do that??

I could put it in my 1/2″ drill, but how do I move the barrel bushing to fit it deeper into the chuck???

Man I love this place 😀 such great info…

I know I’m not a perfect shot by any means, however I don’t typically miss as bad as I have been with this thing…SO glad to know it aint my fault 😉

Guess I got a lot of cleaning and lubing to do (ummmm WOK, I mean on the Talon SS) 😀

The best thing you can do for your frame is remove ALL parts, clean them up. Apply that lube to the PIVOT points of the trigger group. By that I mean the pins and holes they pass thru. Dont lube the engagement surfaces.

Take the frame into the shower with a bottle-brush and scrub the hell out of it. Make sure to dry it well, mineral stains are not a good thing. Pull a clean cloth or two thru it, then set it in the sun a few hours.

Im sure WOK is gonna turn that last paragraph into a picture…

yeah, I put some paper towels through it with some contact cleaner and man was it nasty… I got some of this Blaster DRY LUBE…

It has PTFE…hope it works

That sounds like hammer chatter. One of my hammers caused results like that. Sprayed it with Teflon and problem went away.

If you dont have Teflon, a silicon spray will work just let it dry before you put it back in the rifle. Swabbing out the frame wont hurt either.

One of my tanks was doing the exact string as yours but at a higher MV and was getting those occasional low MV that gave that “thud” sound. The proble I found was a crushed valve stem, here’s my post: http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8734&highlight=valve+stem

My two new ones from AF just arrived yesterday. Going to replace one soon and start testing again.

Airgunner everything needs to be lubed or absolutely clean. I have seen both ways work but I chose to lube everything….I use a mixture of Break Free and Slick 50 mixed 50/50 to lube the hammer…Ya just kinda gotta try both and keep testing until you figure out what works best…These guns can be fickled

I just installed the 90 duro o-rings I got from Gamebred back in 06 (long before I got this thing…) (hmmmm wonder how he’s doing…)

I have a new hammer on the way from yel01z06…the ‘cheap hammer’ that YN showed us too. Does that one need to be lubed as well??

I have this thing in pieces so as soon as I get the new hammer, it will get put back together and I’ll do another string…

Thanks again all y’all
AG

home depot and lowes sells dry teflon lube….. spray a bit on the hammer and spray it in frame let dry, and reassemble.

dont over do it !

gun stores may carry molycote dry lube as well…..works the same…just more expensive

quote WalkonKing:

Make sure the hammer has dry lube on it, bolt orings are good, lube the barrel for the bolt.

Carefull look at the CP’s and make sure they are no pee wees.

Hi WOK, what kind of dry lube do you recommend? and where can you get it?
thanks.

Make sure the hammer has dry lube on it, bolt orings are good, lube the barrel for the bolt.

Carefull look at the CP’s and make sure they are no pee wees.

I would say it is the tank valve…If you can drain your tank, check the valve and make sure it is moving in and out smooth…..Look for any hanging when you cock the bolt…..Cock the bolt and hold it while you pull the trigger…Ease off on the bolt while holding the trigger and slide it in and out to make sure it is not hanging on something inside the frame like the trigger sear….

Viewing 14 replies - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)

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