<<— What Happened???? An Airgun Valve Mystery —&a
Went to the range today to shoot my 9 mm / .357 bigbore homebuilt airgun.
I have shot This .357 airgun over 1000 times.
At the range, I would shoot a 5 shot group, refill (from a 4500 psi carbon fiber tank) and shoot another 5 shot group. I repeated this at least 10 times.
Was filling the tank for the eleventh time, shut off the fill tank valve at 3100 PSI, and noticed an air leak from the filler blead valve. Tried to close the blead valve tighter and it would not seal. Decided to open the valve and it would not stop venting (I was bleading down the whole tank, like the tank valve did not seal.)
After it blead down, I unscrewed the tank from the filler.
THE TANK WAS HOT ! – much hotter than from a normal fill.
THE VALVE STEM FELL OUT IN MY HAND!
Also, I noticed THE DELREN VALVE SEAT WAS GONE!
It was not in the tank.
It was not in the filler.
It could not have gone down the barrel, because it was connected to the filler. IT WAS JUST GONE!
On close examination, the 6-32 screw, that the plastic valve seat was mounted on, shows some discoloration (blue color) .
CAN YOU FIGURE IT OUT? WHAT HAPPENED?
WHERE DID THE WHITE PLASTIC SEAT GO??
I know what happened (I think).
MARK
THE FILLER

THE VALVE ON THE LEFT SHOWS THE WHITE DURLEN SEAT
THE VALVE ON THE RIGHT SHOWS THE VALVE STEM WITH MISSING DURLEN SEAT. IT SHOULD BE ON THE 6-32 SCREW IN THE TOP OF THE VALVE STEM

CLOSE UP OF VALVE STEM WITH MISSING WHITE PLASTIC SEAT – SEE THE DISCOLORATION ON THE 6-32 SCREW

All Replies
Cygnus X
YES “SUPER GLUE” .
Actually, what I used was Locktite 495.
I looked up MSDS sheets on 3 or 4 different brands of super glue
and the auto ignition temperature is 495 degrees.
Thats similar to gasoline at 475 degrees.
Super glue is like putting gasoline in your air tank!!!!!
Its a hazzard to use for high pressure valves unless you are absolutly sure its cured.
Mark
so the glue under suspecion is CA glue i dont know it…but is it the regular kind of cyanocryolat glue (10 second crazy glue) we are talking about here ?
Glad you are happy you’ve nailed down the problem and can proceed
And most important, you wern’t hurt 😯
I’ve worked with high pressure gases for years and as the saying goes-‘Familiararity can cause contempt’ (you do something enough times you start to lose that edge of caution…)
I’m always super careful to ensure anything going under pressure is clean and safe to be pressurised.
Goes to show even expert machinists like Mark can come up against unexpected and potentially lethal situations like this. Thanks to TAG,Mark and its members, this is important info that has got out to the masses…
GOOD WORK 
Walt:
If I get a long enough screw, I dont need the Ca glue at all.
For this valve, I ran out of long, fully threaded, 6-32 screws, and used a non fully threaded screw. The threads will be enough to hold the seat in place.
CA glue is just common “Super Glue”.
I had my hand on the tank through out the whole incident.
A person cant hold his hand on something over 130 degrees F for very long, so I know it didnt go over 130 degrees. I hear what you say about the tank temper, and agree, it would be better to err on the conservitive side. I’ll get the tank hydroed.
I wanna thank all the good people who responded, and helped solve this problem. I had actually given up on finding a definate cause.
Thanks:
Airtight_Python
Walt
RiffRaff
Critter
pablouk
fishin_rod
knifemaker
WalkonKing
Mark
You’re a smart kid dude. 😉
I work in a hobby shop and I deal with CA every day. It is nasty, nasty stuff. It is well known to melt plastics and form VERY, VERY, VERY volatile fumes. Some CA (High grade stuff we sell) is so volatile that the FUMES will melt foam plastics 😯 I do not know what it does to delrin, but it cannot be good. CA doesn’t have a carrier, but the fumes it creates my have been a source of ignition under the extreme compression….. You are very lucky 😯
Paul, maybe. But in Mark’s case the burn was highly localized. Oil would be everywhere as a film and as a vapor/suspension but in Mark’s tank the combustion process was localized to the valve stem with the delrin piece, evidenced by the blue change in color of the stem. If the oil had been the fuel with an even distribution everywhere, you’d see everything burned lightly. In Mark’s case the fuel source was in one spot. If it had been nearer the aluminum, the tank would have failed at that pressure long before the combustion was complete and there would have been an explosion. Luckily the fuel source was threaded onto the steel valve stem and suspended away from the aluminum, the weak link. So even though the oxygen content is artificially elevated due to the very high pressures with a superrich environment, the temp was isolated just enough to keep the temper in the aluminum, but it was blind luck. A bigger valve stem/delrin and it would have been over as well.
Mark, I agree, the outsides may have cured and skinned over, stopping the curing process to the glue farther in, which remained liquid and uncured. The glue probably has a volatile carrier which normally flashes off, which remained on your stem. Wow, dude, that was too close. Do you need a threadlocker at all? I have little experience with valves, too busy fooling with other stuff, have built a few replacement delrin valve seats, but I can’t remember if I used a threadlocker or not. I’m glad you were able to figure it out. Now you can go shoot again. I’m sure you’ll be letting the glue cure outside the tanks for a few days before using them. Or switch to loctite? I’m not familiar with CA glue. Also, temper in tool steels is obtained at 400 F (at the low end of the scale), which is only twice the boiling point of water. I’m still a little iffy about your alum tank dude, although I don’t know the temper point of alum, never had to do that. But I do know of failures in aluminum 80 scuba tanks due to people repainting the tank, then putting into an autoshop paint booth for flash drying car paint jobs. That tank exploded the first time it was filled at the scuba shop and took off the legs of the employee filling it. I always err on the side of caution. If it were me, I’d cut that tank up and scrap it. I like my skin just where it currently resides, thankyou.
aloha,
walt
I’m pretty sure you can ignite oils with air when you put them under fast and high pressure. Oxygen is the biggest danger being that the gas itself ignites after a contaminant has started the chain reaction. But you can still ignite the oils in there with high pressure air. Its the act of the oils being compressed quickly at high pressure that causes the ignition.Friction causing heat etc. But enough oil from your hands on the valve to burn up the seal as well?? Maybe…
CA glue MSDS:
PHYSICAL / CHEMICAL CHARACTERISTICS:
Boiling Point: >278° F Specific Gravity: 1.10
Vapor Pressure (mm Hg) <1 @ 30 ° F Melting Point:` N/A
Vapor Density (Air= 1) 4.3 Evaporation Rate: N/A
Solubility in Water: Polymerized by water. Appearance /Odor: Transparent liquid with ester-like odor.
IV. FIRE AND EXPLOSION HAZARD DATA:
Flash Point (Method Used): T.C.C. 176° F. Flammable Limits: N/A
Extinguishing Media: CO2, Foam, Dry Chemicals
Special Fire Fighting Procedures: Fire can produce dense smoke containing hazardous products of combustion (see Section V), which may be a hazard to health. Self contained breathing apparatus and procedures for fighting chemical fires should be employed.
V. REACTIVITY DATA:
Unstable. Avoid high temperatures. high humidity, and materials such as water, alcohols, amines and alkalics which may cause polymerization which may be exothermic.
Hummmm…, 176 degree flashpoint, “unstable, avoid high temperatures”
And the CA I used was almost “gelled” , you know, it gets too thick to flow. It is an OLD bottle of glue.
Maybe it did not cure, and remained in the valve, waiting for a mere 176 degrees F.
It would be easy to get 176 degrees from a fast fill.
It WAS reglued just prior to leaving for the gun range. I remember thinking “I am taking 2 guns to the range, if this reglueing fails again, I can shoot the other gun”.
I wonder what the flashpoint of CA glue is at 210 BAR pressure??
<<==Walt, Thanks for asking the right questions!!!!!! ==>>
I would not have remebered the glue, if you hadnt asked the question. I have used CA in this application for so long, I didnt give it a thought.
Now I feel stupid, for using materials, that I didnt reaearch first!!!????!!
Mark
Walt:
I have checked both CF tanks for oil. They both smell good.
Discharged half of the tank onto a white piece of paper, and got no oil.
Yes, I use CA glue as a threadlocker between the delrin and the 6-32 screw.
Also, it was reglued the day before the incident. or was it the morning of the incident, I cant remember?
I have always used CA glue as a thread lock, and have filled and shot within minutes of applying it, but never from 4500PSI.
At home, I refill from 3000 PSI scuba tanks.
In the field I refill from 4500 PSI CF tanks.
Inside the aluminum gun tank, there are fine black particles.
Also, in the first few inches past the tank neck, there is a “splattering” of material that looks like melted plastic.
I wonder if CA is flammable?
Walt, Thanks for the help!
Mark
The plot thickens. Offhand, I would have said the culprit has to be in CF tank#2 or it’s line or the air in it but the problem did not manifest in the other gun you filled just prior to filling your gun for the last time.
No, I have not heard of other cases like this. But the vast majority of other shooters I know are running CO2, not pcp.
It cannot be the bore cleaner, as you fired it a number of times prior to filling. You refilled 4 times before the problem manifested. If the Hoppes was dieseling back into the tank you would have seen a problem on shot #1 with blown seals on the breech or a blown breech or a mushroomed barrel. You would have heard or felt something. If the Hoppes somehow got into your tank without combusting it should have caused a problem on the very first fill when the pressure differential was highest between your CF tank and the gun tank. So, sorry Riff, I’m not buying the bore cleaner explanation. There is just too much air hammering out of the valve and rushing down the barrel for a pressure wave strong enough to combat that kind of airflow to make it upstream without blowing the O ring seals and hammering the barrel.
I’m still curious about CF tank #2. Vent a small amount of the air from that tank and give it a sniff. Anything strange at all? Nothing volatile? This happened on the first fill from that tank. Check the fill line for any residue of any kind. Take samples from CF tank#1 and go back to tank#2 and back to tank#1. ANY difference in air smell? If you have your own compressor and air is free for you, dump the air in CF #2 just to be sure and take the valve off and check inside the tank with a flashlight. CHECK the bleeder. I am deathly afraid of mine. I made my own fill manifold in a brass body and after realizing how soft the brass was, and how much pressure it was holding back, now I wince every time I tighten that bleeder down. When I pressurize the system I stand to one side in case the bleeder threads let go. The bolt is going to fly out of there if the threads fail, just like a 4500psi gun would launch it. And that bleeder bolt is HEAVY and will cause serious dmg. I remade the manifold in steel.
We still don’t have the fuel source. I refuse to believe a sleeve of delrin will combust spontaneously when going from 2500psi to 4000psi, dust or no dust. I need to think some more.
You need to take your alum tank on the gun and look inside with a flashlight. We know for a fact the combustion happened in there. There will have to be some sort of residue… you mentioned you found something? what was it? the ash. Do you use a threadlocker on the delrin?? look for chemical interaction between delrin and loctite????
walt
Walt:
Thanks for the reply!
Gun cleaned at home
Arrive at gun range 1.5 hours later
shoot 4 shots
refill, shoot 4 more
refill shoot 4 more
refill shoot 4 more
CF tank #1 is now down to 2900 PSI.
Break out CF tank #2 (4400 PSI)
Fill a different gun
Fill the first gun, and the tank got hot, and the blead valve started leaking (from over pressure, i think)
Imediatly open thee blead valve
When the pressure went down, I removed the tank from the filler and discovered the missing valve seat.
Things happened fast, I did not see the pressure gauge go overpressure.
My attention went to the leaking blead valve.
Tried to close it tighter, and it would not stop the air leak.
Next, I opened the blead valve.
It took a few minutes to vent all the pressure in the tank, so I could unscrew the tank fro the filler. The tank was still hot.
I am sure it didnt get hot enough to mess with the temper of the tank.
I am sure the tank had pressure in it , before I started the fill. The seat had not burned at that point in time.
You are right! It was a close call.
My right hand was in contact with the tank while the seat material was burning.
I have not filled a tank again after that incident.
I think I’ll switch to an “oxygen rated” seat material, before I go shooting again.
Any thoughts?
Am I the only one this has happened to??
Mark
Just spotted this thread and catching up. Crap, Mark, just reading this makes my skin crawl. That was pretty damn close. Someone watching over you that day. The screw was BLUE???
That there was some sort of combustion is a given. Ignition source could have been anything, but the fuel is a mystery. Riff’s scenario with the bore cleaner dieseling back makes sense, but I’m not 100% convinced. What was the time element and sequence? Was the bore cleaned before your shooting sesssion? How many shots? Over what time period? In order for the tank to retain the heat you felt at the last fill, the combustion event would have had to been close to when you actually detected the heat… within, say, 30 minutes or so. The seat failure would have been obvious and immediate. So, after your last shot of the day, you disconnected the tank and put it on your CF tank to fill? When you ran the pressure up, did you see the needle ‘skip’ when the valve cracked open? Or abnormal at that time indicating an empty tank? …all this to try to figure out if the valve had already failed when you tried to fill it or if the combustion event was after you filled/during the last fill.
Due to the heat possibly compromising the tank, I wouldn’t use that tank anymore. If the heat has annealed the aluminum, it may fail while at pressure. Or, have it hydro’d first to test it.
Was your CF tank warm after filling? Normally they cool down due to adiabatic change…
Trying to ignite silicon on your bench won’t work. In the tank under 4500psi the environment is completely different and the two systems don’t react the same way. You cannot replicate the explosion by looking for combustibility at 1 atmosphere.
walt
That makes a lotta sense.
If the first shot after the Hopps #9 cleaning, could have blown back oil into the valve stem area. It could happen if the valve closed before the bullet exited the bore. Then pressure in the barrel pushes air & oil backwards and exits in the clearence between the valve stem and the valve body.
Then that oil gets pushed into the seat area when the tank was filled.
But, how do I know, for sure??
I am a little “gun shy” now.
I had a close call, that could have blown my head off.
I will be carefull to fill slowly, so as to not generate excess heat.
But is that enough?
What is a “PCP friendly oil”??
Yes, I was filling from 4300 psi.
Tomorrow, I’ll do more research on valve seat materials that are recommended for oxygen service. That may give an increased level of safety. I know that will not mitigate any oil problems, but it may not have been oil that caused the problem.
Mark
Mark, It just makes sense to me that a combustible material made its way into your tank in the valve area. You didnt see any other signs of discoloring did you? How about inside the tank, any bluing or black in there?
By “PCP freindly”, I was thinking of the known good oils we already use. Fp-10, break-free ect.
As far as delrin goes, and Im no scientist about this stuff, there appears to be self-lubing formulas of this stuff available at McMaster carr. I wonder if there is a chemical infused in the stuff you were using than can cause it to burn?
Next thing I would look at seriously, is the oils used in your compressor. Im sure youve looked it over, but SOMETHING got into your valve that didnt belong there. I am really doubting fill rate to be the culprit.
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dang….good your safe !
never liked using glues in my valves….so have allways screwed stuff in place