Anyone have windage issues caused by the AF Tri-rail?

A way to verify if your scope is aligned with the barrel is to zero it at 30 yards and then shoot at 10 yards if the POI isn’t directly above or below the original (zeroed at 30) then the scope is not centered on the barrel… 😉

Anyone know of ‘super high’ mounts!!??
Then I could do away with that POS tri rail.

Airtight, the simplest way to diagnose the problem is just to mount the scope directly to the top rail without the trirail. It’s hard to scrunch down your face far enough to see the sight picture, but it’s possible for a few shots. Don’t change the scope settings. Use optically centered scope. Just fire a few for effect and see where they print. If same approx impact then your trirail is fine, your frame rail is off. If it shifts and goes back to where it should be then your trirail is bad.

All rails and scope mounts act differently. Believe me, I”ve been through hundreds in my time. You can optically center your scope then at a known distance, shoot for effect to find out how far off you are. Basic trigonometry or a computer ballistics program will tell you how far off you are at the mount. Send it to me with the dimensions you want it cut and I can cut a taper for you on the mount to fix it, if there is enough meat there.

Or, you can do the cheap fix which is fast and easy. Just cut shims to mount inside your scope rings. If it’s not too far off, then your basic soda can (I like coke, not pepsi) makes good thin aluminum shim stock, and it’s easy to cut with tin snips or a heavy scissors. If you need a thicker shim, use a 30-06 or 308 brass shell casing and cut the casing up. Brass makes excellent shim stock, just be advised that it tapers a lot. Near the neck and shoulder the brass is very thin. Near the base it is VERY thick, so choose what you need.

YOU NEED to be careful how you torque your scope down. Be very, very conservative. When you start shimming the scope, the scope will sit at an angle and if you insist on being a gorilla on the screws, it will kink your scope tube for sure. On a tasco, go ahead, I hate them anyway. On a Swarovski or Leica, you just made a $1000 mistake. Tighten only until you can’t move the scope by hand, then a 1/4 or 1/2 turn more is enough. These PCPs don’t have any recoil to speak of, they’ll be fine. Also you can ream the sharp endges of your scope rings down so they won’t pinch the scope tube. ALL new rings should be reamed. You don’t have to buy special equipment to ream. If 1″ rings are being used, then just go and buy a 1″ wooden dowl rod from Home Depot and wrap some sandpaper around it, it will work just fine as a reamer. Work the rings after torqueing them down onto the rail/gun so they sit as they would while tight on the gun (but no scope mounted to them and no caps on). Then add the caps lightly screwed down, and ream some more. Take your time and go slow. Aluminum rings don’t require much.

aloha,
walt

Yes – I maxed out my windage with a 30mm leapers scope.

I have it sitting around and unused because I dont want to sell it to someone and just have them have issues with it.

I know about the tri-rail presenting cant issues, as my tri-rail also does the same, though by a small amount. The way I’ve corrected this problem while retaining the tri-rail is by using my Airforce laser in conjunction with the scope. The laser dot is zeroed (superimposed) with the scope reticle’s axis. Whenever I focus my scope to a distance other than the zero distance, all I do is adjust the windage knob to bring the laser dot to be centrally aligned with the vertical crosshair.